Hello all,
Im doing work on a bachmann 2-6-0 to make it look more like a high end or brass model. I've taken off the molded details, ran wire plumbing on one side, added a bell cord, all that. I recently purchased some cal scale products, that being an air hose for the pilot, a different headlight (high), handrail stanchions (old ones broke, needed to redo the railing to my specs), and marker lights. Are there any tricks that I should get to know, secrets of the industry, any of that? Im doing a more freelance railroad, trying to take influences from the northern region of the Midwest. I will take photos once I get home, sorry if the quality isn't great in advance
I would find some images of Upper Midwest roads such as MILW, CNW, NP or SOO locomotives with a similar wheel arrangement and cab / boiler appearance, both sides if possible.
Then use that as a guide to place your details.
Jim
The Bachmann 2-6-0 is based on a Green Bay & Western engine, so perhaps getting info on those engines would give you some ideas.
Green Bay & Western 2-6-0 "Mogul" Locomotives in the USA (steamlocomotive.com)
Mogul #38 Builders Photo (greenbayroute.com)
Mogul #53 (greenbayroute.com)
GB&W #255 (greenbayroute.com)
Hi there. I'm not too sure what kind of "tricks of the trade" you are looking for. Adding details to a plastic loco is pretty easy - install your new details using pegs inserted into the plastic shell, in pre-drilled holes using a pin vise drill. I use CA glue. If you make mistakes, you can use a plastic filler (e.g., Testors).
Is that the sort of info you are looking for? Or just prototype information?
Simon
As for comparing a low cost plastic steam locomotive to a brass locomotive. The plastic is probably more detailed out of the box than any brass one. I have brass steam that had horrible detail that had to be redone and altered. My Westside K5s Pacific was dreadful at best. I spent hours and hours replacing and altering the details and mounted appliances. Their representative claw foot markers were brass poles with round domes. Nothing like a marker light. About the only detail on the whole tender was the water hatch. I added the coal bunker ladder, marker lights, rear headlight and rear ladder along with the uncoupling linkage, trust plaques and grab irons.
There's no secret to adding or altering details. Knowing when to stop is the hardest. Museum quality is nice for the shelf. But you'll be happier with a layout quality locomotive.
Pete.
wrench567 As for comparing a low cost plastic steam locomotive to a brass locomotive. The plastic is probably more detailed out of the box than any brass one. I have brass steam that had horrible detail that had to be redone and altered. My Westside K5s Pacific was dreadful at best. I spent hours and hours replacing and altering the details and mounted appliances. Their representative claw foot markers were brass poles with round domes. Nothing like a marker light. About the only detail on the whole tender was the water hatch. I added the coal bunker ladder, marker lights, rear headlight and rear ladder along with the uncoupling linkage, trust plaques and grab irons. There's no secret to adding or altering details. Knowing when to stop is the hardest. Museum quality is nice for the shelf. But you'll be happier with a layout quality locomotive. Pete.
If you can find a copy of the Model Railroader steam locomotive cyclopedia, it has a lot of information about how the details are placed based on prototype practice.
Thanks for the tips guys, some of the parts have arrived. I have a more specific question now I guess, how do I change a headlight? And, if possible, can I change the cylinders from piston valves to slide valves?