"Stuck"? nah, not by a longshot.
Might take a little work to give the thing a tuneup (if old) or a break-in (if new), but even "trainset" stuff can work pretty nicely.
Will it operate like a $2000 something-or-other that crawls at ties-per-minute? no. But who cares if all youre after is a nice "30 scale MPH" .
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
Well, looks like I am stuck with a crappy train set that looks cool around the tree, just will not run. Thanks for the advice
New Bright? They typically make G scale Christmas type train sets.
As far as your 17v from the Bachmann pack, that may be normal. Some packs will show high open circuit (no load) voltage but then drop once a load is connected.
Hook up a load and it’s likely the voltage will drop into the 13-14v range which is the normal loaded range for DC packs.
Most MRC DC packs provide pulse power up to around 50-60% throttle and then switch over to full wave DC. Your Bachmann pack may do this.
Looking at New Bright power packs on eBay, the ones I could read showed 10v AC output. So, if yours is AC, then a DC power pack will not work.
Jim
In addition, how clean is the track / wheels? I remember the plastic wheelsets on my old HO Scale trains would leave "gunk" all over the track in short order (I've since "upgraded" to one of the Lionel trainsets for under the tree, it survives the pets better)
Jumatfsnahhaving problems of the train not running at a slow speed
Generally, locomotives that come with all-in-one starter sets are not very good quailty. Same for their transformers.
A couple of questions:
Personally, I would go on eBay and purchase a good-quality, midland locomotive. You can find some inexpensive ones and they will run better and serve you well for years to come.
Also, if the train is being run around the base of the Christmas tree on carpet, it's possible that there are small carpet fibers and dust that the locomotive is trying to overcome before it can move. Is the locomotive hot when you pick it up after running it for a while?
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Additional voltage is almost certainly going to be a Bad Idea. And all it would 'get' you is some nominally increased (and highly unprototypical, likely!) speed on the higher end. The motors likely used in these inexpensive sets will likely be straight voltage-controlled, so the 'transformer' you have supplies a rectified-to-DC voltage regulated via a potentiometer or similar arrangement to make the motor turn faster or slower.
Likewise increasing the 'amp' rating of the control isn't going to help with this problem. At a given voltage, the motor will 'draw' the amperage it needs, with that likely being greater with increasing speed. Insufficient 'ampacity' would not produce the difficulty you're observing, at lower speed.
What you need to be considering, imho, is something with adjustable pulse-width modulation at lower nominal 'voltage', this producing the 10V continuously, but turning it on and off very quickly multiple times a second. This provides higher torque at the motor when the power is 'on', while giving the average motor rotational speed corresponding to 'average' voltage over time.
What this requires in your specific case -- assuming you don't want to construct a suitable circuit from 'power-pack' components -- is one of the older types of model-train 'transformer' that have pulse power, and ensuring that the peak modulated voltage of their pulse output isn't in excess of 10 or so volts max. I would suspect that some of the later 'refinements' that used very high PWM frequencies would tend to cause motor overheating, so I'd think about starting with one of the types that used cheap GTO of 120pps full-wave rectified house AC first...
There are many DC-power experts on this forum who can advise you better, and in detail, now that you have some idea of what the solution might involve. There are also numerous threads on various aspects of DC power supply that can be accessed via the 'Search the Community' bar available in some of the Kalmbach Forums -- but you either have to get the search keywords 'right' for the somewhat primitive functionality, or have someone here recommend specific threads or thread topics to guide you.
(Incidentally, many of the 'tips and tricks' regarding trackwork would apply to you just as they would to actual scale trains: assuring full power to all the track 'segments' via better connections or a full 'feeder' system might look like overkill for a cheap set, but the cost for the wires and soldering is relatively small, and the gains from doing things right may be substantial...)
I have a New Bright Chrismas train set, to go around the Christmas tree, having problems of the train not running at a slow speed, the transformer is 10 volts, thinking of using a Bachman 17 volt transformer, but worried that I may short everything out, just need more power, I think. Any ideas would be great. Thanks