I have the metal spring belt part if he has the pulleys made.
I am tempted to have him get a long, fat coreless motor -- does anyone still make the Delrin chain and sprockets in that early-'70s MR article?
Or maybe you can find a junk Hustler cheap
You might be able to klooge this
but what are you going to use as a drive belt?
SO I did sleave the driveline part. works as it should now. This update question is on the rat. it is a pully drive. I found a couple motors I have that will work. but need a pully for the motor side. where can i find such a part? or would it be better to try to work on a gear tower?
Shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
I did a quick look through the directions. indeed there are insulation pieces missing. and the contacts are all wrong on the trucks. As somebody mentioned they thought the bends were not right. Those contacts are bent wrong in many places. That will be some work.
snjroy Hi there. That MDC probably never ran... You can find instructions here: https://hoseeker.net/mdcinstructions.html The original contacts were difficult to work with. You can make your own wipers with phosphore bronze sheets. Simon
Hi there. That MDC probably never ran... You can find instructions here:
https://hoseeker.net/mdcinstructions.html
The original contacts were difficult to work with. You can make your own wipers with phosphore bronze sheets.
Simon
I agre with you. it probably never did run out side of a few feet. the treats are almost spotless.
Keith Wiseman has a ton of MDC Shay parts for you.
| eBay
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Shay is by MDC and from the 90's withe the RTR version arround 2002. Just pulled my RTR one and the wipes are to the back of the wheels, yours are bent wrong too so that says kit to me.
The collar is a good idea and probably the better solution with this one. I did notice the contacts. Didn't think much past noticing this also has the rivarossi style metal washers in the back of the wheels which the contacts would have a conflict with didn't think much after that since getting the drive line working being more important. . The contacts are hard against the tread. That stil could be part of the electrical issue. Note there is almost zero wear on the treads.
shane.
I think that the electrical pickups should go against the inside of the wheels for starters. Mine are. Mine may be a "factory improvement, on later production" over yours. If yours are correct then I can not think of anything more at this time. Mine just rub/contact the inside of the wheel's flange.
The orange arrow is where yours is now (on the wheel's tread), yellow arrow is where I think it should be (on the inside of the wheel's flange).
With a split coupling, I have made repairs on a MDC box cab with brass tubing that fit tight over the split coupling, the inside of the tube's end was reemed so it pressed over the split coupling as was the outter end edge of the split coupling. Then when the brass sleeve was in place the coupling was pressed on the shaft.
I'll look to see if I have a picture of the repair. Found it. See the brass collar?
NVSRRThat pic shows the problem. that worm drive piece is split. needs a new one.
I bought parts from NWSL. The part of the universal I needed was called the horned ball. Some of the new ones were split even before installing them. Glad I bought a few spares!
NWSL Universal horned ball by Edmund, on Flickr
These were needed for the shafting on an Overland P-1a electric.
Overland NWSL Drive by Edmund, on Flickr
https://nwsl.com/collections/shaft-couplings-driveline-universals
Good Luck, Ed
A B-1 rat. and two truck shay. T
The Rat is an old model not brass but a cast metal. Does have a motor but all the gearing and such is there. not the pully for the band drive. the pantograph is not original. The couplers are kadee and the kadee stamped draft gear boxes are metal. It doesnt have any marking as to who made it. All in all. it will roll under its own power again. For 25 rectangles, it is a good find.
The shay is a different story. much better condiion with a 5 poll motor but no markings either. plastic cab and cistern. I am leaning MDC based on the motor as it. matchs what Is in a 0-6-0 that i have that is MDC. motor runs when the contacts on it are powered directly. if i try through the trucks, nothing happens. due to its age, I need to find directions to see if something is missing in the electrical. ONly detail missing is s the generaTOR. An easy fix there.
This shay is definitely 50' 60's era. the head light is only cored for a jewel. not bored for an actual lightbulb.
That pic shows the problem. that worm drive piece is split. needs a new one. The rest of the drive line moves freely.
Where can I get that pice or a newer reasonable replacement. Directions to figure out if something is missing from the electrical circut and who m ade it. Anything on the rat too.
New question in last post of the thread