Hi folks, I'm seeking an HO Proto 2000 EMD E8/E7/E6 chassis/frame, no motor, gears or board, just the trucks and couplers. Or a dummy chassis. Any condition, even cracked or bent. I can swap for something you need, just let me know, I'll see if I have it. Thank you, Rob
Oh. An unpowered unit. Sorry can't help there.
I was going to say that I know plenty of dummies. Some think they're even intelligent.
Pete
Good luck with finding a chassis. The manufacturers seem to have given up a while ago on making them with the new generation motors having a much lower current draw which is why dummies were necessary in the first place so that our power packs could handle big looking power consists.
I think Jason Shron of Rapido was quoted that the difference to produce a power unit was only 5 or 6 bucks more than a dummy and it was not worth tooling up for dummies. Even their "Cabbage Car" (Amtrak demotorised F40PH) is actually powered where the real thing goes along for the ride ... just like a dummy!
Cheers from Australia
Trevor
Proto-2000 made "B" E Units as dummies.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
My dummies are all ancient Athearn BB units i got as a lad in the sixties. One was made as a dummy, and the others were gutted because the old motors didn't cut it. As new models, I think they're kind of unobtainable.
I would look around train shows and hope to get lucky and maybe find a model with a bad motor that you can scrap and use the shell.
Also, consider why you want an unpowered dummy.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Over the years, going to train shows, there are different batches of Proto 2000's that appear. GP-9's were around for a while. Haven't been to a train show in a couple years but E-8's were in abundance.
Ebay has sold some recently (not dummies) for $65 - $85 with shipping.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
MisterBeasley Also, consider why you want an unpowered dummy.
to answer that, i have an extra e8 shell i want to pair up aa, and needs a bottom. the front unit will do the pulling.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
This one might be worth bidding on and just replace the shell with your own:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166363062072?hash=item26bc02df38:g:0SgAAOSw5kxlHi~V&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OzodlpJTkYtSWjpQBdX62cq%2BiPrTqBsp%2FchurbSQwl1dG8RsM6Vo7haMjBJIFHPI8C99YXxfknUkPfYPWhDLZwoS59QE0u34d778Kx5HsRaqKJIfMkdTanldbPnQFreVSaDluf8eF5viZcd9nx3bADZFvb%2FchSsZ%2FySxKzOrWHZdeVQQ%2FYph%2B0mYRf8t7%2BecblLfDn2xX4oH8t05t3bPkZCUllA7le4LvKA5HZNSy55K2tEEPo7GddMhhTcMNu7BR1yAwfMspD64bYztPwMvG76inRe59x%2FY26dkUmHOTQE%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Kh35viYg
Rich
Alton Junction
While of no help I did look through my spare parts. I too only have an E8 shell, I was unsure what I had, but I did look.
Those old LL P2K frames got brittle and had a weak point that would break if trying to remove the weight.
Send me your address Rob and I'll aim this chassis in your direction:
Life-Like E8 by Edmund, on Flickr
Cheers, Ed
Very grateful to you Edmund, you are a kind angel. I just emailed you back.
Also the kindness and helpfulness of everyone else responding to this thread is immensely appreciated.
This forum is full of the most decent, humanitarian people I have ever encountered.
God bless all of you, Rob
I think dummies were offered more for cost reduction rather than for power. At least as recently as 1991, Athearn offered a large selection of dummy engines. The difference in price was 1/3rd to 1/2 the retail price (which meant between $10 and $20 off the list price). For example, look at these price charts:https://www.hoseeker.net/AthearnBrochuresAds/athearnpricelist1991pg1.jpg
https://www.hoseeker.net/AthearnBrochuresAds/athearnpricelist1991pg4.jpg
Today, some people think that a dummy engine should also be 1/3rd to 1/2 the retail price just like the old days, meaning that a modern $240 engine (without sound) would be only $120 as a dummy (without sound). And that's just not the case. The difference in price between a dummy and a powered engine is still roughly $20 like it was in 1991, but when engines cost $240, does reducing it to $220 make it really worth it? I think most modelers would opt for the extra $20 for a powered unit.As for the powered Amtrak Cabbage units, it makes sense due to the need for a long consist of heavy passenger cars that might not roll well due to inboard bearing trucks.