First I will tell you all that, although I have over 3 dozen locomotives with decoders (and around 1/2 dozen that are DC only) and have installed decoders into over 15 of the locos I own, I'm certainly NOT an expert. I got into model RR in January of last year and am enjoying the ride! Learning a lot and building a second, larger layout in my garage. My first layout (3' x 5') is in my dining area and I'm keeping it for use as a programming track as well as to run any DC locos I may purchase for future DCC conversions - I have a DPDT switch on that little layout for that very purpose and a Kato Power Pack next to my NCE Power Cab for running DC locos.
OK, to business: How the heck does one take apart this tiny creature? An exploded view came with the trolley but I am not comfortable just digging into it. I've looked online for videos on taking it apart and cleaning it but have only seen one with what must be an older, differently contructed model by Bachmann.
I got as far as taking the shell off ... then after putting it back on the front headlight no longer works . The rear headlight still works when I hit the "headlight" button on my Power Cab. It makes a distinct "buzzing/ratcheting" sound and will sometimes stall on the track at speed steps below 5 or 6 (of 28). I've programmed it to it's long number and reprogrammed it a couple of times wondering if the behavior (noise) is decoder related as unlikely as that may be.
My guess is that there may be one or more teeth missing from one of the gears in one of the trucks ... but I really have no clue.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have an HO scale Peter Witt. I bought it undecorated, so it was bare plastic and unassembled. I had some questions about assembly so I tried contacting Bachmann. They responded right away and were very helpful.
It was probably ten years ago, so things might have changed.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have an N Bachmann streetcar. I didn't know you could even get one with DCC. Mine runs well with DC.
York1 John
First: go online or to Amazon and get yourself a good stereoscopic magnifying headset. Sometimes you can find a surgical operating microscope like a Keeler available cheap -- those have a wider field of view and are easier to adjust and focus than the kind that are like two jewelers' loupes on a swivel frame.
You are no more supposed to work on that car without magnifying aid than you would be on a 22/0 size watch movement.
There are also camera systems that plug into a smartphone, tablet, or laptop that would let you watch on a screen as you work.
Some of these things are assembled by machine, and aren't intended to be taken apart by 'end-users' -- look at some of the threads on these forums about soldering wires to the smaller decoders.
Look carefully at the connections to and wires from the decoder pads, to be sure that they are not pulled loose or shorted. Be advised that electrical pickup from the trucks and wheeltreads may need careful attention, particularly at the smaller scales (N, Z, and T) -- some of your issues may involve poor or intermittent connectivity.