Greetings,
This week I've been working on my QCM well-hole flatcar kit. I'm nearly finished with the body and was assembling the trucks that came with the kit when one of the two horiztonal bolster supports split as I was cutting the threads for the holes.
Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears that these HD flatcars used 3-axle Buckeye trucks. Here's a photo of one of the truck side frames that came with the kit:
A Goggle search reveals that there are a few look-a-like Buckeye trucks available from manufactures. There are also a few that are close but not the same.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a set of HO 3-axle Buckeye trucks that is both accurate and rolls well?
Thanks for any help ahead of time...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
That's what I was going to suggest, Athearn.
Decades ago Athearn actually made a metal sprung version of those.
Precision Scale Co still does make a brass kit.
Sheldon
Thanks for the recommendations, fellas.
I was aware of the Athearn Buckeye trucks. And the QCM kit instructions state that the trucks were designed for the Athearn wheelsets. One plus is that they are already black, which will be the color of the flatcar.
The PSC trucks also look nice but would require painting. How well do you think they would roll, Sheldon?
The reason that I ask is that I've had brass trucks on brass cabooses & tenders that rolled well and not-so well. Most of the time it was due to the brass center bracket on the truck being bent upwards, which isn't difficult to do if you press down on it. To fix it I would remove the offending truck and wheelsets and flatten the bracket with a pair of smooth-jawed pliers. (Same ones you see in my OP)
Again, I appreciate the recommendations.
Personally, I would use the Athearn trucks, I have several pair waiting for some projects I have not gotten to yet.
PSC truck kits are a project, and will only roll "average" at best. They are 50-60 year old masters for lost wax casting process.
I used trailing trucks from them for my five freelanced Mikados.
I've built stuff like this before, so I knew what I was getting into, but every one took 4-5 hours to clean up, fit, solder, and modify for my exact application - and they only have one axle....
They roll well enough, but not what you would call "free rolling".
I still have one more to build to complete the last loco.....
Assembling PSC HO Trucks - Model Railroader Magazine - Model Railroading, Model Trains, Reviews, Track Plans, and Forums
I decided to assemble one of the trucks - just to see how well it went together and rolled. I used some leftover brass wheel sets that I had in my tool box:
I chose NOT to cut threads all the way through the horizontal bolster support holes this time and that helped. The self-tapping screws that came with the kit were too small so the threads just slid through the pre-drilled holes. I picked up 1-72 pan head machining screws @ Menard's this afternoon. The drilled holes in the bolster support are the correct size for tapping 1-72 threaded screws. However, it doesn't leave much metal along the side at the bottom where the bolster support tapers down; hence why the other one blew apart.
Assembling the truck was a bit of a challenge. You first insert a bolster support into each opening of one of the side frames and the springs lock the two together. Getting the springs over the bottom & top nipples in the side frames was a work in patience...and scouring the floor beneath you when one flew off the tweezers. The wheelsets go on next then you add the opposite side frame and springs. I only added half of the springs.
It's a nice-looking truck and it does roll easily. The assembly instructions say to "use the pivot plate [at top] to glue the trucks to the floor [underside] of the car". I'm not particularly keen on that idea, since dismantling the truck then becomes impossible because all the screws are located on the topside. I'm guessing the manufacturer was assuming the kit builder only wanted to display their assembed creation rather than running it on the layout.
The Athearn trucks would give me a better option in that regard. Unfortunately, there isn't much wood meat underneath the metal castings on each end. Maybe the Athearn trucks screwed into a thin metal plate then the plate positioned & glued to the underside on each end.
I wouldnt mind having about two dozen of those lil critters myself. I have that many in Commonwealth to swap out. Love those Buckeye's!
Was the last thing the late RR_Mel (RIP) and I had discussed. He had about a dozen he pulled off Rivarossi tenders. I said PERFECT! I'll take'm - how much? He said "what the patoonias do ya want those for? Well, whatever, I got a drawer full of 'em some wheres. Let me find'm and find out how many and Ill get back to ya. We'll talk price then."
We never got to settle on that price.
ALL STOP!
PMR
Gidday Tom, I know I tend to overengineer things and while tapping into styrene may be perfectly OK, I use these 2-56 blind nuts. I file off the tangs, and epoxy them into an 1/8” diameter by 1/8” deep hole. I don’t know what the thickness of the wood is in that part of the kit, and whether you may have to add more thickness to obtain the correct coupler height or not, but these blind nuts maybe a solution to your problem. IMG_0350 by Bear, on Flickr RR_Mel, a gentleman. Cheers, the Bear.
I have never seen T-nuts as small as 2-56, thanks! Usually I am getting 1/4-20 from Menard's, so these will be a game changer for me. I need to get some of these ordered for a couple of projects.
Good Luck, Morpar
I don’t know what the thickness of the wood is in that part of the kit, and whether you may have to add more thickness to obtain the correct coupler height or not, but these blind nuts maybe a solution to your problem.
I like the idea, Bear. Unfortunately, the wood beneath the metal casting ends is only 1/32" (0.031") thick. Not much.
Make a plate out of brass. Solder in a suitable heavy-wall tube or drilled bar machined OD to the reamed hole in the truck bolster, and then tap for the appropriate broad-headed screw or screw+washer.
Then mark the truck centerline on the car with a punch or drill, and use any thin pointed tool or pin to locate the plate through the drilled hole to center it before clamping.
tsage by Bear, on Flickr
Central Valley made a snap on mounting system for 3 axle trucks. I intend to use those to mount the old Athearn metal Buckeye trucks on the AHM USAX flatcars.
Walthers 3 axle trucks have the mounting hole offset to go between 2 of the axles since you can't get a screw in that's centered above the center axle.
Mark
Bear,
The pivot plate (as pointed to by your arrow above) is attached from the top by a screw (no nut) and secured to the "H" bracket directly below:
If a new plate were fabricated, the "H" bracket in the middle would have to have the center hole on the bottom side countersunk in order for the screw head to clear the center axle and secure the truck to the pivot plate.
The way I see it, the old pivot plate could still be used with the "H" bracket counterbored and countersunk to clear the screw threads. All that would be needed is a way to secure the screw to the underside of the ends. Perhaps a 1-72 nut inset into the wood & expoxied to the underside of the metal casting would minimize the coupler drop?
Here are the unmodfied & modified truck pieces...
I'll need to switch out the 1-72 pan head screw for a flathead screw for a flush fit in the countersunk hole. All I need then is a 1-72 nut.
Anyone see a problem with this idea?
JaBear Cheers, the Bear.
I am sure glad I read this thread. I had no idea these existed!
Now I need to find a source... off to the internet.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
DONE!
I just ordered 10 packs directly from Du-Bro.
$33.00 including tax and shipping to Florida.
I love this group.