I have a GP38 Atlas Engine that the rear coupler is low. How do you raise the coupler to it's proper height?
Thanks in advance for you answer
Harold
I doubt the problem is with the loco itself, and it has to be with the coupler and its mounting components (if any).
Is it sagging, or is the total coupler (shank and back end) low?
Have you checked it against a coupler gauge? If not, maybe the loco coupler is fine but the cars you are comparing it too are not.
Maybe its one of the lower shank couplers (KD makes them). If so, replace with a regular or over shank coupler.
Lastly, maybe there is too much play where the coupler is screwed to the loco body - or a washer is installed between the body and the coupler.
The thing is, I can't envision the loco itself being the problem.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
It has been a while since I had to do a Kadee conversion on a locomotive, but I do recall baffling instances where one end's coupler would come out the right height and the other end's would not! (And ditto with some freight cars but there the remedy was easier - the Kadee fiber washers). On some engines (and cars) the real problem was not so much wrong height but coupler droop. Sometimes a very thin shim of styrene under the coupler shaft would take care of everything. But if it really looked like for some reason the two ends were different heights due to tooling or other issues, I'd look at my assortment of offset shank Kadees. And to be frank sometimes I'd ask myself, is this coupler height really wrong enough to cause a problem?
the horn hook users really had a challenge because to my knowledge nobody made or makes an offset shank horn hook.
Dave Nelson
1. Coupler is not sagging
2. Checked on Gauge and it is low
3. Not a lower shank coupler
The problem is I could not envision it either. I have put a car with a slightly low coupler on one end attached to the logo but I hate make shift solutions.
4. Is not loose as the coupler box goes through the frame of the engine
Wolfman, how far is it too low?
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I'd try a Kadee underset shank; #147 is the medium length in metal, #27 is the medium length in nonconductive (plastic). There are longer shanks as well.
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
Kevin
If you are using a correct coupler height on the first car it will come apart at the transition from a flat grade to a 2" grade
wolfman halIf you are using a correct coupler height on the first car it will come apart at the transition from a flat grade to a 2" grade.
That sounds like a substantial problem.
My first attempt at a correction would be the underset shank 20 series (non-conductive) coupler. The folder metal spring goes on top.
Any issues with a pic? Pref one with the coupler next to another one of a freight car pls?
I'm surprised there is so much surprise that the coupler is off.
If you watch loco reviews on Youtube by Cortipassi, Wright, TSG you see low and high couplers on expensive models all the time. Unless there is enough "meat" on the model to file the coupler mounting pad down, the above suggested coupler is your only option.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
wolfman halthe rear coupler is low.
If only the coupler on one end is low you have something else going on.
Can you carefully eyeball the chassis? Is it level to the top of the rail from end to end? Are the wheels, bearings, axles OK in the trucks?
What's different on the 'good' end that isn't on the low end?
More sleuthing is needed.
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullman wolfman hal the rear coupler is low. If only the coupler on one end is low you have something else going on. Can you carefully eyeball the chassis? Is it level to the top of the rail from end to end? Are the wheels, bearings, axles OK in the trucks? What's different on the 'good' end that isn't on the low end? More sleuthing is needed. Good Luck, Ed
wolfman hal the rear coupler is low.
wolfman hal I have a GP38 Atlas Engine that the rear coupler is low. How do you raise the coupler to it's proper height? Thanks in advance for you answer Harold
Are the couplers mounted on the body shell or on the cast metal underframe?
I re-motored three Athearn U-Boats, each with two motors, then removed the extensions of the frames that were meant for mounting the couplers, and then used .060" sheet styrene to build a stack under the end porches on both ends of each locomotive, adding material until the couplers were at the proper height, secured to the stacked styrene with suitably-sized brass screws...
The photo, below, is a little dark, but if you look closely at the underside of the body shell, you can see the couplers attached to the body shell, and also notice that the metal extensions (meant for coupler mounting) on the frame, have been removed.
It took only two of these locomotives to pull trains of loaded coal hoppers (weighing roughly 25lbs.), up the grades on my layout, with no damage to the couplers or their mounting.
Wayne