So recently I have been looking for a simple way to weather without an airbrush or acrylics and I wonder if you guys would recomend oil pastel sticks.
I use weathering powders and really like them.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
GN24 So recently I have been looking for a simple way to weather without an airbrush or acrylics and I wonder if you guys would recomend oil pastel sticks.
I have used "Winsor & Newton Artists' Soft Pastels" in stick form since 8/6/2003. The box nor the stick itself says nothing about "oil". I have also used Winsor & Newton oil paints out of a tube. I have also used powder pan pastels. All have been used for weathering. All of the above have work good for me.
My most recent weathering "experiments" involved using some A-K Interactive water soluble pencils. These are similar to some of the powdered pastels but when in a pencil form they are very easy to follow on panel lines, sometimes using a file card as a straight edge.
NYC_Pacemaker-weathered by Edmund, on Flickr
Yes, this is my first attempt and a bit heavy-handed on the seam rust. I later toned it down by brushing a little more water onto the seam. Overall I like the effect. It doesn't replace other weathering techniques but is just one more tool in the box.
They can be used "dry" then lightly brushed over with water or as the video demonstrates the tip of the pencil can be dampened for a darker application.
I still use the airbrush for shading and general dusting applications. Also oils for "spot rust" and streaking and Pan Pastels for general shading.
Good Luck, Ed
Hello All,
GN24...I wonder if you...would recomend oil pastel sticks.
I bought a 24 set of these...
Soft Pastels Colors by Artist's Loft
...If this is what you are referring to.
To use these I "shave" the sides of the sticks and use soft bristle makeup brushes to apply. (I got these brushes at a beauty supply store, under "Cosmetic Brush Set." Yeah, they looked at me funny- -but with an online coupon- -it got me an extra 15% off.)
I use a plastic paint tray (palette) to mix the dry colors to achieve the results I want.
Mistakes for most rolling stock can be remedied by washing in warm water and dish soap, allowing to air dry, and starting over.
For locomotives- -lightly mist the shell with "Wet Water" (water and a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle) and carefully wipe off.
When satisfied with the final results I use rattle-can clear matt finish to seal the weathering.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
jjdamnitWhen satisfied with the final results I use rattle-can clear matt finish to seal the weathering.
That is important, if you intend to handle cars, and most of us do. The seal tend to mute the effect to the pastels.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
jjdamnit Hello All, GN24 ...I wonder if you...would recomend oil pastel sticks. I bought a 24 set of these... Soft Pastels Colors by Artist's Loft
GN24 ...I wonder if you...would recomend oil pastel sticks.
I have the same set. These are chalk pastels (versus oil), and I find they work very well. I scrape them with an X-acto and use the resulting powder to weather rolling stock, track and buildings. You can also add water and apply the mixture with a brush. Good hobby stores sell chalk pastel sticks by the piece - I would recommend that to get the type of colors we use in our hobby.
Simon
If you are really afraid of overdoing it, try water color pencils. I use them for my floorboads on flat cars because you rairly get it right on a first pass with all the colors involved to make them look real, bonus, if you mess up you can wash it off and start over. When it is what you want, you seal it.
This. months model railroader has something on water colors for weathering
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
By interesting coincidence my most recent "Frugal Modeler" column in the NMRA Midwest Region "Waybill" is on this topic and can be found here:
waybillspring23.qxp (mwr-nmra.org)
The popular if somewhat pricey "Pan Pastels" which have a somewhat creamy consistency may well contain some oil since they are clearly more sticky than the pastel sticks or chalks. I have often wondered if basically what they are is make-up and if make-up from a dollar store would be cheaper. Any weathering method takes practice and that's why cheap train set freight cars from the swap meet are always good to have on hand.
Dave Nelson
My only experience is with Pan Pastels. I highly recommend them. I'm not an accomplished model and I find these are very easy to work with. 4 or 5 basic colors is all you need, and if you should make a "mistake" (which is very hard to do) you merely need to get a damp cloth or paper towel and wipe it off and start over.I do rolling stock bodies and trucks(I rattle can spray couplers). You do need to apply a base coat of Dullcote however for "tooth". Trust me, if I can do a reasonably nice job anyone can!
Regards, Chris
I use PanPastels, good quality colored pencils, and the new AK weathering pencils.
But if the models will be handled, you will need a clear coat to seal it into place.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
dknelson I have often wondered if basically what they are is make-up and if make-up from a dollar store would be cheaper. Dave Nelson
I have often wondered if basically what they are is make-up and if make-up from a dollar store would be cheaper.
If you get make-up like eye shadow in the powder form from the 'cheap stores' look closely, you will find some to have a shiny finish.
PC101 dknelson I have often wondered if basically what they are is make-up and if make-up from a dollar store would be cheaper. Dave Nelson If you get make-up like eye shadow in the powder form from the 'cheap stores' look closely, you will find some to have a shiny finish.
Using a mix of browns from Dawn's old make-up powders she does not use.
IMG_5072 by David Harrison, on Flickr
IMG_5063 by David Harrison, on Flickr
Dark browns and black on the crane.
IMG_5490 by David Harrison, on Flickr
Still there after more than 2 or 3 years.
David
To the world you are someone. To someone you are the world
I cannot afford the luxury of a negative thought
Tophias My only experience is with Pan Pastels. I highly recommend them. I'm not an accomplished model and I find these are very easy to work with. 4 or 5 basic colors is all you need, and if you should make a "mistake" (which is very hard to do) you merely need to get a damp cloth or paper towel and wipe it off and start over.I do rolling stock bodies and trucks(I rattle can spray couplers). You do need to apply a base coat of Dullcote however for "tooth". Trust me, if I can do a reasonably nice job anyone can! Regards, Chris
I was looking at PanPastels and found this article by Tony Koester on using them. https://viewer.joomag.com/article-weathering-model-railroader-nov-13-weathering-article/0407085001587587176
Unless I missed something he did not use dullcote before weathering. Does that imply it is not necessary or did he screw up?
Rick
hbgatsf I was looking at PanPastels and found this article by Tony Koester on using them. https://viewer.joomag.com/article-weathering-model-railroader-nov-13-weathering-article/0407085001587587176 Unless I missed something he did not use dullcote before weathering. Does that imply it is not necessary or did he screw up?
He stated that he didn't coat then after applying the weathering. Nothing was said about prior, although he mentioned factory paint jobs, which probably weren't gloss coated. Assuming the photos are accurate, it doesn't appear that he needed Dullcote.
I swear by artist chalk (not the bright colored type used by kids). You cna get a set with large variety of them in craft stores. You match the color to what you plan to weather and scrap off some in a container to apply with a stiff brush. I use oxtail from the craft store.
AEP528Assuming the photos are accurate, it doesn't appear that he needed Dullcote.
Dullcote doesn't improve the weathering, it protects it from handling. It also decreased the effect of the weathering.
I guess if you aren't going to use it afterwards, why use it before?
hbgatsfUnless I missed something he did not use dullcote before weathering. Does that imply it is not necessary or did he screw up?
I have found that Pan Pastels will adhere to most non-glossy surfaces without pre-prepping with Dullcote. There must be some kind of binder in the P-P which aids in grabbing the surface. I often apply it over paint primers and flat colors such as the Rustoleum Camo paints.
Dullcote alone, in my estimation, does enhance a 'weathered' appearance. It will make most finishes look like the paint has been sun-bleached and faded. I find the bottled Dullcote to have more of the flattening agent and it seems to go on much better than the stuff in the little rattle cans.
Other weathering powders do not seem to have the same binders that Pan Pastels have and certainly benefit from an undercoat of dull flat finish before applying powders.
Some rolling stock, such as Kadee HO cars, have a somewhat glossy surface when new. These do require a layer of Dullcote even if you don't plan any further weathering.
Weathering Cars-c by Edmund, on Flickr
Head-End_Dusty by Edmund, on Flickr
The OP has not been back so maybe he got disenchanted with the whole idea?
BigDaddy AEP528 Assuming the photos are accurate, it doesn't appear that he needed Dullcote. Dullcote doesn't improve the weathering, it protects it from handling. It also decreased the effect of the weathering. I guess if you aren't going to use it afterwards, why use it before?
AEP528 Assuming the photos are accurate, it doesn't appear that he needed Dullcote.
This article is from the PanPastel website and discusses using a flat finish prior to using their product.
https://modelingcolors.com/preparing-to-weather/