Dave,
These are the two Loc-Tite brand CA glues I use:
Gel Control and Liquid.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Can you hear me banging my head against the wall?!?
The Loctite #406 seemed to be working very well. That was until I tried to make a small adjustment to the air line that comes out of the brass brake cylinder assembly. You guessed it. The CA let go.
It turns out that Loctite #406 is intended only for plastics, so I did another search for suitable Loctite adhesives. One of the sources that my search came up with was Uline Canada. I have had great success with Uline products in the past so I decided to have a look at their website. What I found was a very specific description of what each of the Loctite adhesives was designed to do. I hadn't found that detailed information on Loctite's own website.
According to the Uline information, Loctite offers several general purpose CA adhesives. Some are designed for heavy duty industrial applications and they are rather expensive. I found one general purpose CA at a reasonable price so I have ordered it. It is Loctite #454.
Uline delivers very quickly so I should have it in a couple of days. I will let you know how well it works.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critterBy the way, the Loctite #406 bottle says to not refrigerate after opening. Interesting.
I might be remembering this all wrong...
I seem to recall in the 1980s there was a glue company called JET. They said their CA had to be refrigerated, and I remember Carl Wilson's Clear Track and Gulf Coast Model Railroading had small refrigerators in their stores. JET was the first gap filling CA I think.
Then other companies were marketing glues, and hobby shops kept them in the refrigerator also. Then these companies started saying DO NOT refigerate our product.
I do not recall ever seeing a label of CA that said to refrigerate it since JET.
NucksssGive them a shake before using.
The Gorilla glue that didn't work was the gel version and it was quite thick. I had to pound the tip of the nozzle on my workbench to get it to move, so I don't think that shaking it would have accomplished anything with that particular bottle. However, the new Loctite #406 is much more liquid so I will shake it before using it.
By the way, the Loctite #406 bottle says to not refrigerate after opening. Interesting.
Nucksss Give them a shake before using.
Give them a shake before using.
Doesn't the label on the Gorilla ca bottle say to do that? I think the bottle I tried said that.
Good idea and seems to help.
hon30critter drgwcs Gorilla super glue gel has been the only super glue I have used for a couple of years. Hi Jim, There seems to be mixed opinions on how well Gorilla super glue works, but regardless of that, my bottle of Gorilla glue simply wasn't working at all. That makes me a little reluctant to try it again, but I am not being critical of you using it. I'm going to stick with the Loctite #406 for now. The bottle should last me a long time assuming it keeps working. Cheers!! Dave
drgwcs Gorilla super glue gel has been the only super glue I have used for a couple of years.
Hi Jim,
There seems to be mixed opinions on how well Gorilla super glue works, but regardless of that, my bottle of Gorilla glue simply wasn't working at all. That makes me a little reluctant to try it again, but I am not being critical of you using it. I'm going to stick with the Loctite #406 for now. The bottle should last me a long time assuming it keeps working.
I had tried some when it first came out and really liked it but really got using it heavily when I got into several large scale projects for the club starting three years ago.
I do find that it probably off gasses more than other super glues so it can potentially fog acetate if a lot is used. The gel that had issues with thinness was one I bought recently. Could it be they are having quality control issues or it was an old tube? Good question.
I will say that they are a very different company than when they started. It used to be 10 years ago that they only sold directly to stores and they were shipped directly from the company. I managed a hardware store then and it was very rare to have an issue with their products of any kind. They have since changed their model where they send to retailers warehouses and are in all major retailers now. I wonder if that might be part of the change if the warehouses are not rotating. The bad one I got was from Walmart.
Jim
hon30critter I just tested the new bottle of Loctite #406 and the bond is quite solid.
I just tested the new bottle of Loctite #406 and the bond is quite solid.
Rich
Alton Junction
hon30critter Hi folks, I have recently been having a problem with my CA glues not setting properly. I had a couple of bottles of CA which were a few months old and they simply stopped working, so I blamed it on age. I bought a replacement bottle of Gorilla gel CA from Amazon and I tried it for the first time tonight, and it doesn't work at all either. I have two questions: What CA glues work for you? How do I guarantee that I am buying fresh stock? Thanks, Dave
Hi folks,
I have recently been having a problem with my CA glues not setting properly. I had a couple of bottles of CA which were a few months old and they simply stopped working, so I blamed it on age. I bought a replacement bottle of Gorilla gel CA from Amazon and I tried it for the first time tonight, and it doesn't work at all either.
I have two questions:
What CA glues work for you?
How do I guarantee that I am buying fresh stock?
Thanks,
Interesting Gorilla super glue gel has been the only super glue I have used for a couple of years. I buy the tubes instead of the larger side sqeeze bottle. I have had the larger bottle seemingly thin out and separate but have had very little issue with the smaller tube. I wonder if that might have been what happened?? I do shake them a little after that. I have done a whole lot of work for the club with this brand and have found it to be the best superglue I have used as it is not brittle as many others are. That being said I did have one of the smaller tubes that was a bit thinner in consistency lately. I kind of figured I got an older tube where the stock had not been rotated. After I shook it up it appeared to work better. I have went through quite a bit in-between projects for the club and my layout so I thought it was a one off thing. I do not believe Gorilla glue puts dates on anything.
Thanks again for all your input.
tstageI've been pleased with the Gorilla 100% silicone clear sealant.
I have never used that product.
Of the two glues I have tried, original Gorilla Glue, and Gorilla Wood Glue, I was happier with the Elmers versions.
However, Now I cannot find Elmers Nano-Glue locally, and Elmers Wood Glue is not as common as Weldwood Wood Glue. It is even getting difficult to find Elmers Glue-All, the common white glue.
Elmers School Glue is everywhere, but not very useful.
SeeYou190I will swear by Gorilla brand duct tape, but their glues are iffy at best. Elmers used to make a product called "Nano-Glue" that was similar, but better than the original Gorilla Glue. -Kevin
I've been pleased with the Gorilla 100% silicone clear sealant. I use it for adhering the flat weights included with rolling stock kits - e.g. Accurail and Bowser.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
hon30critterWhat CA glues work for you?
I use Loctite Gell Control glue almost exclusively for the following joins:
Metal to Plastic
Metal to Wood
Resin to Resin
Plastic to Resin
Metal to Resin
Metal to Metal
This brand does not harden instantly, and it allows for repositioning. It hardens in a minute or two, and becomes very durable after 24 hours.
hon30critterHow do I guarantee that I am buying fresh stock?
I have no idea. I buy mine from The Home Depot because we have a high turnover of this product, so I assume it is always fresh.
I used to buy it at Walmart, but I do my best to NEVER go into a Walmart anymore.
rrebellGorilla make great commertials but terrible glues as far as all I have tried both in woodworking and other.
I will swear by Gorilla brand duct tape, but their glues are iffy at best. Elmers used to make a product called "Nano-Glue" that was similar, but better than the original Gorilla Glue.
The gorilla glue gel I have says to shake the bottle before usomg. Perhaps it was not mixed well.
Gorilla make great commertials but terrible glues as far as all I have tried both in woodworking and other.
Try a 2-part epoxy like JB Kwik Weld.
I decided to give the Gorilla glue another chance. This time, after cleaning the surfaces as suggested, I let the joint sit for about 12 hours. When I tested the joint, the detail part popped right off with very little effort. Something is clearly wrong with the glue.
Fortunately the new bottle arrived today. I haven't had a chance to use it. I'm going to head upstairs to spend Christmas Eve with my wife.
I buy mine at the $ store (it is accually made by Pacer). Never had a proublem unless it was old. They sell both thin and jelled. The stores sell though it so fast it is rare you get a bad one and yes, old CA can have issues depending on how it is stored.
NONE! CA glue has put me in the emergency room several times with violent and severe vertigo. I use Woodland Scenics white foam glue for everything, even plastic models as a result.
I admit that I use the cheap CA sold in small packages of four. It works fine. The thicker the coat, the longer it takes to cure. For items that are larger or structural, I drill holes and add pegs for added strength. Epoxy works well with metals and plastics.
Simon
I have had no problem with Gorilla. I do keep it in the fridge, however.
Long Haired DavidA.K.A. David Penningtonmain man on the Sunset and North Eastern R.R.http://www.gmrblog.co.ukfrom the UK
hon30critterI think that I may not have stated the nature of the problem very well. The problem is not with the bond breaking. It is that the CA is not hardening. After 30 minutes the CA was still sticky and soft. I don't think it had hardened at all, or at least very little. The house is no drier than usual, and I did try breathing on it but to no avail.
Hi Tom,
Please read the above. I don't think that surface contamination is the problem.
hon30critter I looked at Rich's suggestion of buying the Loctite super glue/accelerant combination pack but the price in Canada is ridiculous when the shipping cost is added in.
I looked at Rich's suggestion of buying the Loctite super glue/accelerant combination pack but the price in Canada is ridiculous when the shipping cost is added in.
hon30critterI had just finished grinding the surface smooth with my Dremel so there was no grease.
Grinding only makes the surface shiny; it doesn't make it clean. Just to be safe I would wipe off both surfaces - brass & styrene - with a degreaser (e.g. isopropyl alcohol) before appying the CA.
tstageHas the surface of the "clean" brass been degreased prior to bonding?
I had just finished grinding the surface smooth with my Dremel so there was no grease.
I think that I may not have stated the nature of the problem very well. The problem is not with the bond breaking. It is that the CA is not hardening. After 30 minutes the CA was still sticky and soft. I don't think it had hardened at all, or at least very little. The house is no drier than usual, and I did try breathing on it but to no avail. Has anyone else experienced this?
I have ordered a fresh bottle of Loctite CA as well as a different brand of accelerator. I looked at Rich's suggestion of buying the Loctite super glue/accelerant combination pack but the price in Canada is ridiculous when the shipping cost is added in.
Thanks for all the responses.
Hello All,
The "Original" Super® Glue (CA) is what I use- -both traditional and Gel.
I buy it from Amazon in 12-packs of small tubes. I store the unopened tubes in the freezer.
Somewhere I read that keeping the CA frozen can extend its shelf-life on unopened tubes. Seems to work for me.
Once I breech the seal I make sure that I purge the application tip and store the tubes vertically- -Tips Up!!!
Yes, an open container of CA will dry out after time.
When that happens I just go to the freezer and get a fresh tube.
Another consideration is CA is not the panacea the manufacturers make it out to be when it comes to bonding dissimilar materials.
hon30critterIn this case I was trying to bond clean brass to bare styrene. The other situations where the CA has failed recently were similar.
Your difficulties might not lie with the bonding agent(s) but with the dissimilar materials bonding properties.
Some dissimilar materials require other forms of bonding agents.
In your situation, I would consider hot glue. It will adhere to brass; a non-porous material, and Styrene; which bonds with a solvent-based agent.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
hon30critter tstage Sounds like the accelerant/bonding agent is being contaminated. What are you bonding to with your current CA? Hi Tom, In this case I was trying to bond clean brass to bare styrene. The other situations where the CA has failed recently were similar. Dave
tstage Sounds like the accelerant/bonding agent is being contaminated. What are you bonding to with your current CA?
In this case I was trying to bond clean brass to bare styrene. The other situations where the CA has failed recently were similar.
Has the surface of the "clean" brass been degreased prior to bonding?