I just purchased a new old stock Atlas SD35 (Made in Austria by Roco), never run still in the box at an Estate sale.
It runs beautifully on DC.
Today, I added a DCC decoder and it runs very nicely as well.
Since this model was made in the late 70s, it has horn hook couplers.
I would like to change these for some Kadees or others.
Any suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Try Kadee No.5s. They will fit pretty much any HO engine or car. I believe they were originally designed to work in the coupler boxes manufacturers used for the 1960s on standard X2F "horn hook" coupler.
Thanks Stix.
I believe that I have a Kadee # 5 in one of my boxes!
Hello All,
The ability to upgrade the couplers from X2F (Hook & Horn) to a Knuckle type depends on many factors.
The first is the way the OEM Roco coupler attaches to the locomotive.
In April I purchased a Roco operating slewing crane. The OEM couplers slide vertically into their mounting- -gearbox. Known as "Close Coupler Heads."
There was no way to upgrade to a North American knuckle coupler. The solution was to make a transition car with the European coupler on one end and a North American knuckle coupler on the other end.
Other European couplers use the NEM mounting (gearbox) standard.
Kadee does offer NEM standard Knuckle couplers as a direct replacement.
Where the coupler mounts can be a factor in upgrading too.
Many locomotive couplers mount directly to the trucks while others mount to the body.
Truck-mounted couplers can be more of a challenge than body-mounted units.
Knowing how the couplers are mounted will guide you to which replacement solution will work for you.
Photos of your particular situation would help.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Put in those #5s. Best case, they work fine And you're done. Worst case, take them out and save them for the next time. Nothing lost.
It may help to get a Kadee coupler gauge. (Well, it will help, sooner or later, so don't be discouraged.) Get a pair of trip-pin pliers, and maybe a coupler spring tool.
Please come back and tell us what happened, and you'll be contributing to MR lore.
My original HO layout was from the 1960s. I have replaced a lot of those horn hooks as I slowly refurbished every old car in my fleet. Kadee has never failed me.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
jjdamnit Hello All, The ability to upgrade the couplers from X2F (Hook & Horn) to a Knuckle type depends on many factors. The first is the way the OEM Roco coupler attaches to the locomotive. In April I purchased a Roco operating slewing crane. The OEM couplers slide vertically into their mounting- -gearbox. Known as "Close Coupler Heads." There was no way to upgrade to a North American knuckle coupler. The solution was to make a transition car with the European coupler on one end and a North American knuckle coupler on the other end. Other European couplers use the NEM mounting (gearbox) standard. Kadee does offer NEM standard Knuckle couplers as a direct replacement. Where the coupler mounts can be a factor in upgrading too. Many locomotive couplers mount directly to the trucks while others mount to the body. Truck-mounted couplers can be more of a challenge than body-mounted units. Knowing how the couplers are mounted will guide you to which replacement solution will work for you. Photos of your particular situation would help. Hope this helps.
This Loco is a body-mounted unit.
I found a Kadee coupler package in one of my boxes.
As far as I can see, there is enough of an opening in the body to fit the #5 coupler and by using my Xacto knife, I can trim the sides of the plastic gear box so it can fit nicely!
Thanks for your help.
Hawks Rule jjdamnit Hello All, The ability to upgrade the couplers from X2F (Hook & Horn) to a Knuckle type depends on many factors. The first is the way the OEM Roco coupler attaches to the locomotive. In April I purchased a Roco operating slewing crane. The OEM couplers slide vertically into their mounting- -gearbox. Known as "Close Coupler Heads." There was no way to upgrade to a North American knuckle coupler. The solution was to make a transition car with the European coupler on one end and a North American knuckle coupler on the other end. Other European couplers use the NEM mounting (gearbox) standard. Kadee does offer NEM standard Knuckle couplers as a direct replacement. Where the coupler mounts can be a factor in upgrading too. Many locomotive couplers mount directly to the trucks while others mount to the body. Truck-mounted couplers can be more of a challenge than body-mounted units. Knowing how the couplers are mounted will guide you to which replacement solution will work for you. Photos of your particular situation would help. Hope this helps. This Loco is a body-mounted unit. I found a Kadee coupler package in one of my boxes. As far as I can see, there is enough of an opening in the body to fit the #5 coupler and by using my Xacto knife, I can trim the sides of the plastic gear box so it can fit nicely! Thanks for your help.
As with using the x-acto knife, try using a flat file on the sides of the Kadee coupler box after you removed the side ears from the box with the knife blade. It makes short work of squareing it and reducing it's size. The file will not dig in or make it lopsided. Safer for the fingers too.
I sometimes need to file off the "Kadee" print on the bottom side of the coupler box, the print can be just enought to make it a tight squeeze through the front of the pilot.
PC101
On the old Atlas/Rico units enlarge the coupler pocket and install a #7 with the ear on the side of the coupler cut off the #7 will bring the coupler height to match the Kadee guage.
This was how Jim Hediger did it in his paint shop articles years ago.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
Kadee recomends the number 37 for the Atlas SDs made by Rocco. I have two of the SD24s (same chassis as the SD 35) with the Kadee number 37 on them. Slips right in with no modification and the height is correct.
.........Paul
05c50 Kadee recomends the number 37 for the Atlas SDs made by Rocco. I have two of the SD24s (same chassis as the SD 35) with the Kadee number 37 on them. Slips right in with no modification and the height is correct. .........Paul
Thanks Paul, I knew another coupler replaced the #7 but I was not near my modeling area so I could not find it. And it makes it easier as they got rid of that ear on the #37 so it does not have to be removed.
I have several Atlas / Roco lokeys and found the #7 to be a perfect match. With those no longer available, I recommed Kadee's short, underset shank coupler. The Atlas / Roco coupler box is a bit low and the underset shank corrects that exactly. I used needle files to open the coupler mount taking the same amount of material from top and bottom. The sides will also need to be openned up a bit. The pin that mounted the horn hook can be reused to mount your Kadee coupler. I recommend plenty of patience when enlarging the coupler mount area.
Don; Prez, CEO or whatever of the Wishram, Oregon and Western RR