I am in the process of using joint compound to create docks on my layout.
i know most people just pick out the joint compound from the inside of the rails afterwards. However I was thinking if I got some craft rubber and cut some strips of it, could I use that to go inside the rails to protect it from picking out the sheet rock afterwards?
what's everyone's method of doing this?
https://imgur.com/a/9bzTxOh
I'm not sure that I understand your use of joint compound, but if you're using it to create a railroad crossing, I'd suggest that you use some Evergreen angle material that's similar in height to the rails on your track. You can then use the moulded-on plastic "track spikes" between the rails to provide space for the wheel flanges, and simply use solvent type cement to glue the angle material to the tie-tops.
If you're using joint compound to fill-in the space created by the angle material, I'd suggest placing masking tape over the rails on both sides and also allow the edge of the tape to cover the top of the thin edge of the angle material.
That should prevent, or at least minimise, the amount of joint compound getting into those hard-to-clean areas.
For roads with crossings or areas where there is track in pavement, I simply put a large sheet of paper over the track, and use a pencil laying as close (and parallel) as is possible to the "pavement", which will create a form which outlines the location of the rails, which can then be cut-out from the paper and used as a pattern over sheet styrene. I then use a utility knife to cut along the pencil lines, to create a strip of "concrete/pavement" (straight or curved, as needed) that will fit between the rails, and still leave ample space for the wheel flanges on railroad cars and locomotives.
Here's a couple of examples...
Wayne
I didn't use joint compound instead I used plaster with the base color paint mixed in. Troweled it on and over the rails. Then took an old truck with a set of modified pizza cutter wheels and ran it back and forth. After it was dry a bright boy did nicely. Lately I have been using the old white pen eraser with the wedge cut ends. They are not as course as a bright boy.
The modified pizza cutter wheels. They are brass and I thinned the flanges using a Dremel and grinding bit on the back side of the wheels. I think they are old Bowser wheels.
Pete.
I use plaster to fill in between the rails, then simply carve out the flangeways with an Xacto. It only takes a few minutes.
That last photo shows some debris in the left flangeway, but after I cleaned it off (and removed the vehicle) trains cross smoothly.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Use plaster of Paris, make a evergreen strip and coat with vaseline, when the plaster has set hard enough, gently remove the vaseline coated strip.
I second (or third or whatever) the use of styrene angle for the flangeways. You can gently notch or kerf the 'bottom' if you need it to follow rail curves better.
Back in the day, you could buy striping tape in various 'point' widths for offset-printing paste-up masters -- for borders and lines and so forth. A width appropriate to rail height above spiking could be applied with the adhesive side against the flange face of the rail, in enough 'layers' to define the desired flangeway width, and since the tape had a shiny front finish it could be pulled free of the plaster once that has set up.
My vote, if we are taking one, is for styrene. You have to work the piece after you cut it with some sandpaper, but it is much more precise and less messy. I have done the joint compound, but sometimes it contracts as it dries and you can see the outline of the ties, so I had to add another layer and re work the flange clearance. It is possible my first attempt was poor. Either way, I started using styrene or balsa, that made life easier.
I just made a grade crossing with Durham's water putty. I made a tool from .0625 x 1 brass bar that clears flangeways, and makes the road surface a tad lower that the railhead so it doesn't interfere with track cleaning.
Durham's water putty remains workable long enough, it dries quite hard, and does not shrink. Dan
I also vote for styrene. Easy, not messy, and easily removed if there is a problem.
York1 John
For railway crossings not used as often as some other ones, I used "gravel", along with some plastic angle iron (from Evergreen), to make crossings, as shown below...
...while this one used switch ties to contain the gravel...
...I also have a lot of plank crossings, too, as much of my layout is countryside or small-town areas.
...and, of course, platforms at train stations are a necessity, too...