Well I've been working on a bowser kit and I learned a lot and am interested in purchasing and working with brass engines and other vintage kits.
I've noticed that there are no minimum curves listed for any of the brass engines listd on ebay. How would I know if they can run on my layout. I have 31" and 28". When ask the sellers they usually give me a generic 40 something inch curve answer but both engines I've bought worked on my 28 flawlessly (GS5 and ATSF 2-8-0). I know it isn't going to be a perfect answer like mass produced engines but I was just wondering a ballpark. For instance what would a large northern engine require, a smaller engine like a hudson or pacific, and say a large articulated engine.
Also what causes the disparity between BLI's min curves and a brass engine. BLI gets their big boys to run on 18". What sacrifices are being made?
BradenDI've noticed that there are no minimum curves listed for any of the brass engines listd on ebay. How would I know if they can run on my layout. I have 31" and 28".
I require ALL my equipment to be able to pass through a 22" radius S Curve before it can be considered good enough for the layout.
All the following brass locomotives could do it with no problems or modifications.
Sunset USRA Light 4-6-2
Sunset USRA Heavy 2-8-2
Sunset USRA Heavy 4-8-2
Key USRA Light 4-8-2
Nickel Plate NKP 4-6-4
Tenshodo USRA 0-8-0
Alco USRA 0-8-0
United/PFM 2-6-2 Logging Locomotive
United/PFM MA&PA 2-8-0
United/PFM LA&AK 4-6-0
This is the only brass steam locomotive that would not do the S-Curve, but it will run on a 22" radius curve:
Sunset W&LE 4-8-2 (Converted to 4-8-4)
So, in my experience, medium sized brass steam locomotives should be OK on your curves.
BradenDBLI gets their big boys to run on 18". What sacrifices are being made?
They hinge both sets of drivers, and attached the trailing truck to the rear driver assembly. On real Big Boys, only the front set of drivers is hinged, and the trailing truck supports the firebox. My Bachmann 2-8-8-4 Will run on 18" radius and take the 22" S-Curve with no problem.
It looks very silly doing this.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I've got a Sunset GN 08 (2-8-2) that runs fine on 27".
Dan
Like Kevin, I can run 8 driver brass locos on my 22" curves. I can even run a 2-10-4 without any derailments. This is how this is achieved:
-Good trackwork: make sure that your track, including the turnouts, are flat laterally. Uneven track will rock the loco and lift the pilot wheels. Uneven kinks in the track are also a no-no.
-Don't forget the turnouts: sharp curves will also be problematic for many steamers.
-In some cases, the pilot and/or trailing wheels will short against the frame. Some light dremel work on the trucks and frame can address that without significantly affecting the appearance of the loco.
-Make sure the springs are working properly on the pilot and trailing wheels. You might have to add some weight on the pilot wheels to keep them on track.
Some folks like Sheldon will argue that 30" should be the minimum, and they would be right if you have the space for it. Large curves look better and locos run better on them. I don't have the space...
Simon
Division Point's Santa Fe 885 class 2-8-2s will run on well-laid 18" curves, the 900/1600 class 2-10-2s will do 22". Granted, these locos have small drivers (57" for the prototype) and therefore a short wheelbase.
The minimum curve radius that a model steam locomotive can handle does not depend upon what the model is made of, brass, plastic, Zamac, what ever. It depends mostly upon the size of the locomotive, small ones will handle the sharpest curves. Americans 4-4-0, Moguls 2-6-0, switchers 0-4-0 up thru 0-8-0, Tenwheelers 4-6-0 will manage curves as sharp as 18 inches. I have Pacifics 4-6-2 and Moguls 2-8-2 that also manage 18 inches.
I would expect the big steam, Texas 2-10-0, articulateds, Hudsons 4-6-4, and up to need a larger radius, but I don't know just how much.
If a steamer is having trouble on sharp curves check wheel gage. Check for free motion of the pilot truck. Add weight to the pilot truck. Check the locomotive's balance (weight on front drivers vs weight on back drivers). If necessary add lead to balance the locomotive. Make sure the pilot is not touching the rails, that creates an electrical short. Add as much weight as possible into the locomotive. Good luck.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Your best bet may be to look at the website of the locomotive's manufacturer to see all the specs. The ebay seller is selling it second-hand, and may not still have a data sheet or other info that came with the engine. I recall seeing one brass import, a CP 2-10-4, that had a 30" minimum radius; that's the largest I can recall seeing in an ad. (However, in a review, the reviewer said it easily went around his Kato 28.75" test track.)
BradenDWell I've been working on a bowser kit and I learned a lot and am interested in purchasing and working with brass engines and other vintage kits.
Bowser's kits were mostly designed long ago when sharp curves were the norm; I suspect all of them (even the big engines) could take a 22" radius curve, many I'm sure could do 18"R. BTW just to be sure we're all on the same page...Bowser and other old engine kits often had many brass parts, but that's not the same as a brass engine - particularly in price!
DrWGranted, these locos have small drivers (57" for the prototype) and therefore a short wheelbase.
That is why I chose the W&LE 4-8-2 to become the SGRR 4-8-4 Northern type. It has small drivers, and a huge firebox that looks right with a four wheel trailing truck.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
The above picture is pre-modification. Most Northerns have tall drivers which makes them unsuitable for tight curves.
The majority of my brass are all older Tenshodo models that will handle down to 22" min, even the big 2-10-2. I do however have 2 brass articulateds (2-8-8-0 and 2-8-8-2, both GN) that handle 32", this is the tightest test curve I laid.
It's good to hear of other folks that can get kinda tight with their newer models as well.
Kev
i bought a 2-10-10-2 and forgot about the back drivers being locked
live and learn lol