What is the best adhesive to lay track directly to a wooden base?
RicZ
I'm using Alex Plus clear caulk to lay track on cork - a technique I learned from this forum (on my former layout I used Super 90 spray adhesive, to which the caulking is superior in basically all respects). I can't imagine that it would not work just as well on a bare wood base.
Not that I have a wood base, but what about double-sided tape or Elmer's wood glue?
PennsyLouAlex Plus clear caulk to lay track
Apply a thin, thin coat. On long straight sections, I only apply a thin coat of a couple of inches every foot or so. If you apply a thin coat there should not be any oozing up at all. I helped a guy tear up a layout that used caulk very sparingly and the track came up like a magnet peels off a refrigerator with no residue on the track. I do not caulk turnouts but make sure the track is well secured on all sides.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
When I built my modules more than a decade ago, it was good old reliable white glue. On cork, foam and wood.
Pete.
I have always used Atlas track nails - no mess, and very easy to re-locate the track if needed. Once the track is ballasted, the track nails can be removed. I did, however, use yellow carpenters glue to affix the cork roadbed to the 3/4" plywood sub-roadbed.
Later, when I added a partial second level to my layout, I used gelled contact cement to affix the cork roadbed to the sheet plywood then used the same contact cement to affix the Central Valley tie strips to the cork. To finish the job, I used the gelled contact cement to fasten 18' or 24' lengths of soldered-together code 83 rail to the CV ties.
(I used the code 55 rail joiners by using a cut-off disc in a motor tool to alter the base of the rail so that the small joiners could be slipped-on, then soldered, which not only ensured that there would be no "bump" at the rail joints, but also that the joiners would become almost invisible.)
Wayne
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I use clear PolySeamSeal adhesive caulk. The very first article I ever read about gluing track, that is what the guy was using.
I use it in my work, and it tacks a tack very quickly, works very well.
But don't expect to take up track and reuse it.
This track is glued down with it, can't see it, not in the way of appling ballast.
I don't glue turnouts.
Sheldon
i used dap alex plus with silicone, 3 bucks for a large tube, apply very very thin ... hold down with weights for the tweve hours it takes to set / dry .. dries clear ..
can be easily taken up with a knife and the track reused ... i applied only on track, not turnouts and soldered the rail joinrs, power feeder about every three feet
more than one method can work but this is what i used eight years ago now, still trouble free
wvgca i dap alex plus with silicone 3 bucks for a large tube, apply very very thin ... hold down with weights for the tweve hours it takes to set / dry .. dries clear .. can be easily taken up with a knife and the track reused ... i applied only on track, not turnouts and soldered the rail joinrs, power feeder about every three feet more than on method can work but this is what i used eight years ago now, still trouble free
i dap alex plus with silicone 3 bucks for a large tube, apply very very thin ... hold down with weights for the tweve hours it takes to set / dry .. dries clear ..
more than on method can work but this is what i used eight years ago now, still trouble free
I have never glued my track down.
My track gets spiked. When I am happy with it, I ballast the track. The glue that holds the ballast in place also holds the track.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Track nails here as well for the same reasons as Wayne and Kevin.
Rich
Alton Junction
Track nails as well. When I"m happy with the track I ballast it.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
doctorwayne I have always used Atlas track nails - no mess, and very easy to re-locate the track if needed. Once the track is ballasted, the track nails can be removed. I did, however, use yellow carpenters glue to affix the cork roadbed to the 3/4" plywood sub-roadbed.
I agree
I use these on my n scale but for foam sections i use a thin amount of elmers glue on every 5 ties before I put my ballast in, which alsohold the track down
I never have glued my switches, so when i glue my track i skip over the swithes and keep counting
Hello All,
RicZWhat is the best adhesive to lay track directly to a wooden base? (Emphasis added for clarity)
(Revised Response)
Many modelers use a product known as "Camper Tape" for roadbed when mounting track directly to wood.
This product provides a limited amount of sound deadening and the ability to re-route the track plan.
It is track nail friendly and ballast easily due to it's double sided adhesive properties.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I have always used straight PVA on Woodland Scenics roadbed and never had any issues. For speed I put both roadbed and track down at the same time using weights to secure the straights and a combination of weight and tacks (temporary) on curves.