For what its worth....
In my experience, having two 11x15 "round the room" layouts, 36 inches was the max reachable distance. That said, I had 2 carpet covered cubes that I would stand on to reach the furthest 8-10 inches.
For the corners, which were beyond comfortable reach, I made certain the trackage was "perfect" (no turnouts) and the out of reach scenery was done before doing reachable scenery. This worked out great, and stood the test of time.
I'm not saying this was ideal, but to get the set up I wanted, this was what I did.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
DonRicardo How far can you reach and still work on your layout?
How far can you reach and still work on your layout?
I am only able to reach about 2 - 3 feet at the max. I figured I can put a L sape layout big enough for a loop and a yard section
ndbprrMy wife asked me how big a basement I wanted when we retired. I told her 10,000 square feet should be adequate. I got 1000 square feet.
This is good advice for anyone needing to budget for the next year. Ask for ten times the amount you need, and they'll feel they're doing you a favor giving a tenth.
Just make sure you use all 1,000, or it will slowly be appropriated for other uses.
York1 John
My wife asked me how big a basement I wanted when we retired. I told her 10,000 square feet should be adequate. I got 1000 square feet.
DonRicardo and OERRFailR...
Each week Kevin (or others) starts the thread Weekend Photo Fun on this forum.
It's a perfect place to put pictures of your layout. Nothing needs to be finished or perfect. We love all pictures of anything to do with layouts.
Some of the expert modelers post there and will inspire you to work on your layout!
I am building a new layout and will post pics for you as soon as I start the buidings.
Check out ScaleModelPlans.com
DonRicardoI do not spend $30.00/$70.00 on buildings, I make my own from cardstock. I have a rotaru cutter for that which enables me to also cut ouw window and door trim, I use Testors window maker to fill in the window panes, and end up with very decent looking buildings, sized to fit where I want them and with out that plastically look.
I would love to see pictures of these projects if you want to share.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I am building an n scale layout now, on 1x3x8 longitudinals with 43 inch cross braces. It is a modified old Atlas plan (N-17) widened and elongated to make it less compacted.
At 43 inches wide, it gives a 22 inch reach from either side, with 19", 17" and 15" radii, all switchws filled in with flex track. That depth allows you to work your layout without dropping the old tummy onto your work! (over-reaching)
This is based on the Conway Scenic RR in New Hampshire, with Boston and Maine locomotives. (B&M originally owned the trackage, as did the Maine Central)
The tracks are on 2 inch foam insulation board. (look at Batman's benchwork) It will feature the Saco River, cut right into the foam base, you do not need deep cuts to form streams, creeks, or rivers.
I do not spend $30.00/$70.00 on buildings, I make my own from cardstock. I have a rotaru cutter for that which enables me to also cut ouw window and door trim, I use Testors window maker to fill in the window panes, and end up with very decent looking buildings, sized to fit where I want them and with out that plastically look.
If I had the room, I would do an around the wall shelf layout, but unfortunately that isn't the case,
Good luck on your build and enjoy yourself.
STRATTON AND GILLETTE layout number one was an N scale layout built on a door measuring 30" by 80".
There were never any problems from using a door. All my turnouts were Atlas with the switch machines on top the layout.
You are asking me? hehehe...
NOTHING is too big for a railroad, says the LION with 14 scale miles of track!
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
An alternative would be an around-the-walls layout. In N-scale, just using 12" to 24" wide shelves would provide plenty of space for track and buildings, and allow for a backdrop behind the shelf. You can widen out out to 36" at each end of the layout to allow for 15" radius loops for continous running - a "dogbone" or "waterwings" layout design.
Be sure and check out Kato Unitrack too.
https://katousa.com/n-unitrack/
Thanks for the reccomendations! I will put these into effect when designing and building my layout. I will also post photos on here when i get to the door layout!
thanks for the reccomendations! I will happily post photos on here when i get to my door, in which i will get to eventually.
OERRFailRanneri have cam up with the idea of using a dual track loop on a hollow door and add on a yard for operations ... I was wondering, would this be too big for a table layout? If any of yall ask for room size, its about 14x12 with bedroom items.
I have an N layout in a bedroom (although there's no bed in there at the present time).
My table is L-shaped, and is 36 inches wide. That is probably too wide for me except that I mounted the table on wheels so that if needed, the entire table can be pulled away from the wall and I can go behind it.
The hardest part to reach is the corner of the L.
I see no problem with your door layout size. Enjoy building it, and if you can, we'd love to see pictures of your progress. Many of us like seeing photos of work in progress.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Hello,
I have been looking at different track plans and i have cam up with the idea of using a dual track loop on a hollow door and add on a yard for operations (based off of the Pennsylvania RR Juniata Division track plan). I was wondering, would this be too big for a table layout? If any of yall ask for room size, its about 14x12 with bedroom items.
Thank you!