stripping paint

[gmpullman]

fisker4jc

Would a paper coffee filter work?

I think that might be too fine as would a disposable paint strainer. I use an old household screen strainer (one that is a finer mesh than usual) and decant the spent fluid through it.

Once strained the finer paint particles settle to the bottom so when I next use it I am careful not to agitate any of the sludge collected on the bottom.

I use Simple Clean.

Regards, Ed

[fisker4jc]

I'd like to reuse the stripping fluid after strain out particles etc.  Would a paper coffee filter work?

[azrail]

NVSRR

I dont see it mentioned but simple green concengrate works too .  

shane

 

Simple Green is also good for stripping chrome plating off of plastic parts.

[NVSRR]

I dont see it mentioned but simple green concengrate works too .  

shane

[SeeYou190]

Doughless

I've also used Pine Sol.  Let the car soak overnight.  But beware, the scent tends to get absorbed by the plastic and your car will smell like Pine Sol.  I'm not kidding.

I used Pine Sol to strip the paint off of a bunch of 1/100 scale resin Soviet Tanks that I bought for a great deal, very poorly painted.

After cleaning, priming, painting, dullcoating, and a few years passing, they STILL smell like Pine Sol.

Be warned!

-Kevin

[doctorwayne]

SeeYou190

Old Athearn Blue Box freight cars can be a real pain to get the paint off of. If you really must do it, please post pictures and updates. I have never had much luck with these.

As I mentioned earlier, methyl hydrate worked very well on Athearn BlueBox cars.  It took me some time to find the photos, as they somehow got transferred in photobucket to a different album.

Here's the buck-fifty caboose...

...and only a few minutes later, in a jar full of methyl hydrate...

...and after some detail revisions (and paint and lettering)...

As long as you follow the advice about the nitrile gloves, the product is safe to use.

Wayne

[Doughless]

91% alcohol.  For small cars and locos, I use one of those tennis ball containers that has a lid....keeps the smell and evaporation in.  Also, since its vertical, the stripped paint particles (I use a tooth brush to gently rub the car while in the container) will settle to the bottom in a few days, allowing the alcohol to be reused for another car.

For Athearn BB cars that are made from that black plastic, auto brake fluid works great.  Brake fluid will not work well with some other plastics however.

I've also used Pine Sol.  Let the car soak overnight.  But beware, the scent tends to get absorbed by the plastic and your car will smell like Pine Sol.  I'm not kidding.

[SeeYou190]

fisker4jc

I need to strip paint off a athearn blue-box caboose

Old Athearn Blue Box freight cars can be a real pain to get the paint off of.

If you really must do it, please post pictures and updates. I have never had much luck with these.

If it were my decision, I would surf eBay until I found an undecorated one at a fair price. When you add up the hours and effort it might take you to get the paint off... that undecorated model is well worth it.

-Kevin

[PennCentral99]

fisker4jc

How long should I let the model soak?

Only long enough to loosen the paint. I had some styrene soften and distort because it soaked too long. On some models the paint loosened fairly quickly and some models I had to leave it soak overnight.

fisker4jc

What are good containers to use?

As stated, a tupperware container or zip-lock bag slightly bigger than the model.

fisker4jc

Can I reuse the alcohol for future projects?

Sure, I have. Just strain the paint particles and recycle in the same container.

I have used 70% IPA and the SuperClean Degreaser. Just pay attention to what's going on.

[ricktrains4824]

For soaking in Isopropyl, I start at 2-3 hours, then go further. (EDIT - Only if needed. Most don't need it longer.)

On shell I got distracted and forgot overnight, no damage done.

I use an old plastic storage box that is about the size used for shoe boxes. Big, I know, so I end up flipping he shell a few times, but it was the best price - Free.

[doctorwayne]

fisker4jc

I need to strip paint off a athearn blue-box caboose that i tried to just remove the lettering from and paint over.  Let's just say that didn't work very well.  I plan to go the 91% isopropyl alcohol approach.  How long should I let the model soak?  What are good containers to use?   Can I reuse the alcohol for future projects?

Thanks

If I were using alcohol for stripping paint, I'd use the 99% version, available at any drugstore in Canada.
However, for plastic items from Athearn, methyl hydrate works very well as a paint stripper.  I poured some into a glass canning jar (with the proper lid) as the solvent will evapourate if left open.

I had planned on modifying an Athearn bay-window caboose, painted red and lettered, and if I recall correctly, for the New Haven.

In a matter of minutes, the paint began to blister, then drop-off in pieces.  It doesn't work on all paints, but seems especially useful for stuff from Athearn.

You should be able to find it at any hardware store.  While you're there, pick-up a pair of nitrile gloves, as the methyl hydrate is readily absorbed through your skin, and can cause damage to your liver and kidneys.

Wayne

[gmpullman]

I've been using the SuperClean method for several years now and find that it will tackle about 90% of the various OEM paints out there. Some flake right off with little effort and others require a little more soak time and soft brush action.

jjdamnit

I have used heavy steel loaf pans (used for baking bread), glass baking pans (found at thrift shops), and rectangular plastic pans, used for drywall compound

I "treated" myself to a nice 14" welded (no fold seams to trap old paint/solution) stainless steel drywall mud pan.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/drywall-tools/masterforce-reg-14-stainless-steel-drywall-mud-pan/33414/p-1444423331924-c-8951.htm

Shop around, they are available in a wide range of sizes (I've seen up to 24"!) and prices. Sometimes I only fill the pan to cover half the model then simply flip it a few times through the soaking process. Works just fine.

I often strip HO passenger cars and the 14" length is ideal for this. I do reuse the SuperClean and decant it into a secondary container after running through a sieve. I keep it in a Nalgene container but an old laundry detergent bottle works too. Be SURE to label it.

Don't pour your used stuff back into the bottle of new, of course.

Good Luck, Ed

[jjdamnit]

Hello All,

AntonioFP45

Regarding a container, you can use ordinary tuppaware containers. The narrower, the better as you'll use less solution.

Great point!

I have used heavy steel loaf pans (used for baking bread), glass baking pans (found at thrift shops), and rectangular plastic pans, used for drywall compound (available at hardware and home improvement stores).

No matter the solution (solvent) used, a containment system is a must in case of leaks.

And, definitely nitrile gloves and eye protection.

Hope this helps.

[AntonioFP45]

Regarding a container, you can use ordinary tupaware containers or ziplock bags. The narrower, the better as you'll use less solution.  

Photo below:  I took some scrap steel and welded it together as my soaking tub, making sure that it was long enought to accommodate HO 85ft passenger car shells.

 

 

[jjdamnit]

Hello All,

You will get many responses to the "Best" paint stripper and/or method.

Many lines of type have been dedicated to this subject.

I found that full-strength PineSol® works well for me.

Method (Note: Can be used for other solvents as well):

• Put the item to be stripped in a zip-top freezer bag.
• Fill the bag with enough full-strength PineSol® to cover the item.
• Squeeze all the air out of the bag and seal.
• Put the bag in a plastic, metal or glass container, in case of leaks.
• Agitate the bag with its contents occasionally- -every half hour or so.
• You might need to let the item soak overnight.
• Using nitrile gloves and eye protection, remove the item and rinse under warm water.
• You may need to use a toothbrush or other soft bristle brush to remove stubborn paint.
• Discard the used PineSol®. It can be poured down the sink as it is a household chemical.
• Repeat as necessary to remove all paint.

A word of caution, I tried this method on an old Rivarossi shell and the shell became brittle to the point of stress cracks.

These were remedied by applying a plastic solvent to the inside of the shell along the cracks and a light application of gray primer before painting.

This is the only example I have of shell damage using PineSol®.

Hope this helps.

[AntonioFP45]

Hi Fisker,

I hope this helps.  I normally use 91% ISO alcohol to strip the paint from HO and N scale shells from various manufacturers (Atlas, LL P2K, Walthers, Bachmann, Rivarossi, AHM).  However, I discovered that, in some cases, the older production Blue Box Athearns can be a bit stubborn, even with 91% alcohol.  For blue box Athearns, I now use the purple "Super Clean", which can be found at home stores and even Walmart.

I completely submerge the shell, upside, with steel weights, and soak it for several hours, sometimes overnight.  I come back with a medium bristle toothbrush and scrub the paint right off! No damage to the plastic.

CAUTION:  If you use Super Clean, don't let the pleasant smell fool you.  Use rubber gloves and safety glasses!  When I first tried super clean, my hands become soaked with it as I brushed the shell while continually turning it in my solution tub after an overnight soaking. I felt no pain or burning sensation. However, 2 to 3 days later, the skin was peeling on my hands. 

[fisker4jc]

I need to strip paint off a athearn blue-box caboose that i tried to just remove the lettering from and paint over.  Let's just say that didn't work very well.  I plan to go the 91% isopropyl alcohol approach.  How long should I let the model soak?  What are good containers to use?   Can I reuse the alcohol for future projects?

 

Thanks