New engine. Light lights but motor does not run. Cleaned track, wheels and sprayed WD-40 into the trucks . Wiped clean, still no operation other then the light.
DMK
Is there a decoder in it? Have you pulled the shell and checked the motor connections? That's where I would start.
Pete.
It is not DCC. Thanks for your tip.
wrench567 Is there a decoder in it? Have you pulled the shell and checked the motor connections? That's where I would start. Pete.
Rich
Alton Junction
ASSuming you have a reasonable variable-voltage source, or can rig jumpers from the track rails with alligator clips, try putting progressively higher voltage directly across the motor terminals (with the engine off the track) to see if the motor turns when directly powered.
I presume you have already checked the drive to make sure it is capable of turning freely when the motor runs. We had a case here a few months ago of someone who was sold an "as-new" locomotive at an estate sale which had gears so badly worn they seized.
Dave KNew engine.
Is this really new? The last I was aware, the Con-Cor PA-1 was last made in the 1980s.
Is this a locomotive you bought on the secondary market?
I had one, and it ran great.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
OK, no one has jumped in, so I will give it a go.
If it is a Con-Cor PA1 from the 1980s, it has an early version of the Kato split-frame mechanism with the motor sandwiched in the middle.
If I recall correctly, the PA1 used a small can motor with no flywheels, and not the Kato open frame motor that was used on all those great-running Atlas hood units that came later.
Again, as I recall, there was no wiring to the motor. The chassis clamped against the motor and each half of the frame was half of the circuit and it brought electricity to the motor.
This area of contact could have become cruddy, corroded, or even pested, so that it no longer conducts electricity. That would be where I would look first, since the light does illuminate.
Be careful assembling the split frame. One wrong move will give you a dead short.