MDC coupler boxe lids were just rectangles of plastic or metal depending on era with a hole in them of course. Kadees fit just fine, you are just missing the plate, maybe someone here has a few.
I have had good success starting with a Dremel #196 cutter bit and finishing off with a small file. If carefully used the Dremel will not do damage that cannot be cleaned up with the file. Carefully prepare a flat surface and glue down a Kadee #242 draft gear box. Either Styrene solvent or CA superglue can be used. Use a Kadee 148 coupler. The box lid can be just snapped on or the car bottom can be drilled and tapped for a 2-56 screw.
I use the same technique to remove truck mounting posts and prepare a flat surface for replacement Kadee trucks. If needed the hole in the center of the old post can be filled with on old Styrene kit sprue and filed flat. The resulting surface can then be drilled and tapped for a 2-56 screw.
I've recently used both techniques to "rescue" some ancient cars with Talgo trucks and truck mounted couplers.
Charlie - Northern Colorado
Back with another question fellas that is kind of inline with this thread. I have some older roundhouse cars that I have had since I was a kid and want to convert them over to kadees. The cars never had coupler covers just a screw. What I want to do is cut the mounted on draft gear box so I can add a kadee one but don't quite know the best way of cutting off the old one ? I was thinking maybe a xacto chisel blade ?? I dont want to dremel it and melt the plastic
any tips would be awesome
thanks
wjstix As Sheldon points out, the problem (if one develops) is usually with the metal coupler cover, not the tabs. On a couple of cars I've put a tiny bit of Walthers Goo on each side of the coupler box when putting the cover back on, to help hold it in place. You could get the cover in place an put a drop of ACC on either side too.
As Sheldon points out, the problem (if one develops) is usually with the metal coupler cover, not the tabs. On a couple of cars I've put a tiny bit of Walthers Goo on each side of the coupler box when putting the cover back on, to help hold it in place. You could get the cover in place an put a drop of ACC on either side too.
it stays rather pliable & easily Removable should the coupler need to be replaced
Thanks for the link kevin I will have a look at it
Hi Jeremy...
I have posted this link before for how I assemble Athearn Blue Box freight car kits.
There is a lot of helpful information in the replies also.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Thanks for the tip and the pictures Wayne I appreciate it
Jeremy
JeremyBMy understanding is the two jigs keep the tap and drill bits straight And stops the plastic from squishing out... actually it seems very handy when I think about it haha
You could probably make your own version of it using various diameters of brass tubing.
An even simpler option, if the Athearn draught gear box is no longer suitable for the clip-on cover, is to cut it off, then replace it with one of Kadee's various draught-gear boxes suitable for screw-mounting.For the original #5 box, a 2-56 screw is appropriate, but I'd suggest using ones with a flat head, as it's very easy to create a counter sink to accommodate such a screw, making it far less noticeable than the dome-headed screw.A few twists with a #20 or 11/64" drill bit will create a countersink deep enough to make the flathead screw almost unnoticeable.
Here's a 40' clone of a Dominion-Fowler boxcar with counter-sunk flathead screws keeping the coupler boxes in-place...
...pretty much unnoticeable, even upside-down...
Wayne
Other than a drilling & a machine screw try a tiny dab of CA on each side of the coupler box, but be carefull to not get any inside the box. Bayway Termianl NJ
Cheers for the link I appreciate it
wjstixA quick internet search came up with some hits, including ebay. Couldn't find anything at Micro-Mark though.
Picture I included in post above was from the MocroMark website. Anyway, link is:
https://www.micromark.com/Bulls-Eye-Drill-Jig
A quick internet search came up with some hits, including ebay. Couldn't find anything at Micro-Mark though.
Walthers:
https://www.walthers.com/bulls-eye-drill-jig-drill-jig-six-2-56-x-1-8-screws
A-Line:
https://www.blackforesthobby.com/a-line-products-11002-ho-scale-bulls-eye-tap-jig-1-each-tap-jig-tap/?gclid=CjwKCAjwu_mSBhAYEiwA5BBmf2ef1lnXlKZtItNxKexTZ2nppP4-quqBFXZVwOREn6WXVPatVZHbAhoCMo0QAvD_BwE
Probably best to call them if you can. That way a better chance of getting a straight answer.
maxman JeremyB The a line jig looks handy for sure but I can't find it at any local shops. I looked on a lines site and they don't ship directly to Canada so would have to order from walthers Which last time I did was a little pricey too. You might try MicroMark and ask if they can mail it to you. Small enough that it should be able to go into a small padded envelope.
JeremyB The a line jig looks handy for sure but I can't find it at any local shops. I looked on a lines site and they don't ship directly to Canada so would have to order from walthers Which last time I did was a little pricey too.
You might try MicroMark and ask if they can mail it to you. Small enough that it should be able to go into a small padded envelope.
cheers maxman I didn't think of that I will email them and ask.
JeremyBThe a line jig looks handy for sure but I can't find it at any local shops. I looked on a lines site and they don't ship directly to Canada so would have to order from walthers Which last time I did was a little pricey too.
JeremyBThe a line jig looks handy for sure but I can't find it at any local shops.
The A-Line drilling jig works on lots of different manufacturers coupler boxes. I trimmed mine down to about 1/3 of its original length. It was too long for my #50 drill bits of choice.
I used it on Proto-2000 tank cars with excellent results. I did not use the metal coupler covers after I used it, but the coupler box lids from Kadee coupler boxes held in place by the 2-56 screw.
That is also what I have done on upgraded Athearn flat cars.
This combination has worked well.
The a line jig looks handy for sure but I can't find it at any local shops. I looked on a lines site and they don't ship directly to Canada so would have to order from walthers Which last time I did was a little pricey too. I have taps so could maybe do it without the jig. My understanding is the two jigs keep the tap and drill bits straight And stops the plastic from squishing out... actually it seems very handy when I think about it haha
Those look just like the screws I found. Never needed the drill guide. A pin vice is all I've used.
Pete.
There is the bulls eye drilling fixture:
If you take a pair of pliers, and carefully bend the existing bends in the cover so that the sides are TRULY 90 degrees to cover portion, they snap on correctly and last a life time.
Sheldon
I screw mine on. I found a package of short 3/16 sheet metal screws at the hardware store. A small hole in the center of the pin in the coupler box works great. Just don't tighten it too tight to strip it.
And yes the covers do pop off when you least expect it. I watched helplessly a string of 48 hoppers and a cabin careening backwards down the long grade of the clubs layout. Tragic results.
Not taking them off repeatdly just curious if the tabs broke off
The key to those covers is to gently squeese them top and bottom with a pair of slack jaw pliars until you hear them click. Otherwise they might not be on tightly. Don't understand why you would be taking them on and off repeatedly. I have never worn the plastic nubs out on a car so to my way of thinking don't think there is a problem lurking there.
Hi guysI was changing out some some couplers earlier this afternoon and was clipping back on the covers and noticed that some of the tabs on the sides of the box were getting a little thin. They snap back on but that got me thinking what would I do if they broke off? Is there a way they can be screwed down at all? I don't know if that pin in the coupler box can be cut off and a hole be tapped somehow? Doesn't seem like there would be a lot of material to tap a holeAny thoughts or tips you can lend would be fantastic ThanksJeremy