blabride Yes on RTR you can replace bulbs without taking the cab off since there is no cab interior, which I think only the Genesis line has. You can reach in there with a pair of knurled needle nose tweezers and pull them out. If one sticks and breaks just drill the hole from the outside with the same size drill bit in a pin vise. I also found it easier to twist the wires together on the bulbs to about an inch from the bulbs. Just make sure the bulbs are even on duouble headlights. It makes them easier to install and keep them even when looking at the from the front. You can use those same tweezers to feed them back in to the holes from the inside. you may have to fine a way to not move or touch the body until the glue dry's as those bulbs have a way of shifting on you in those holes. Having uneven headlight shining from the front is a bit annoying. SB
Yes on RTR you can replace bulbs without taking the cab off since there is no cab interior, which I think only the Genesis line has. You can reach in there with a pair of knurled needle nose tweezers and pull them out. If one sticks and breaks just drill the hole from the outside with the same size drill bit in a pin vise. I also found it easier to twist the wires together on the bulbs to about an inch from the bulbs. Just make sure the bulbs are even on duouble headlights. It makes them easier to install and keep them even when looking at the from the front. You can use those same tweezers to feed them back in to the holes from the inside. you may have to fine a way to not move or touch the body until the glue dry's as those bulbs have a way of shifting on you in those holes. Having uneven headlight shining from the front is a bit annoying.
SB
I use a small amount of Eileen's Tacky Glue to keep the new bulbs in place. It sets up tacky enough fairly quickly so the bulbs stay put as I fiddle with the wires. Still maliable enough to shove a bulb into a better place if needed before it cures.
- Douglas
loggingfirefighter388 Well I just spent the last 2 hours trying to remove the cab with little to no luck. The single tab released fine however the 2 tabs in the back of the cab wont budge. I also noticed a white hard as concrete type glue only on one side where the cab follows what looks like a channel for proper alignment. Can I push or pull each headlight out of the cab without having to remove it possibly?
Well I just spent the last 2 hours trying to remove the cab with little to no luck. The single tab released fine however the 2 tabs in the back of the cab wont budge. I also noticed a white hard as concrete type glue only on one side where the cab follows what looks like a channel for proper alignment. Can I push or pull each headlight out of the cab without having to remove it possibly?
Well, you're on the right track. The glue is a bummer.
Yes.
My experience with replacing bulbs in Genesis locos with LEDs was that if I could see the wire heading into the headlight holes, I was free to pull them out and unstring the wires and bulbs through the pathway they were installed. Maybe use a small tool to help push from the outside since I think ATH glues the bulbs in place.
But, installing new bulbs into the holes requires restringing the wires and proper placement into the holes. If the cab is still attached or there are obstructions, its a pretty tight fit for fingers or for getting the right pliers at the right angles to string the wires.
I guess you'll just have to asses how difficult it would be to restring the new wires back through the cab and into the holes.
Samuel Robinson
Lewiston,Maine
loggingfirefighter388 Thank you everyone for replying. When I get home this afternoon I will remove the shell and see what happens. I did pick up some of the Miniatronics bulbs from my local hobby shop so ill be doing all 4 bulbs instead of two. I wonder how long its gonna be before i'm asking for advice with installing LED's in my locomotives??
Thank you everyone for replying. When I get home this afternoon I will remove the shell and see what happens. I did pick up some of the Miniatronics bulbs from my local hobby shop so ill be doing all 4 bulbs instead of two. I wonder how long its gonna be before i'm asking for advice with installing LED's in my locomotives??
Athearn now equips theire RTR SD39s, 8s, 40, and 40-2s with LEDs. Individual bulbs prewired just like your Incandescents.
They sell replacements for your conversions. Its as easy to install LEDs than it is to install their incandescents.
The issue will be the light board and if its already "resistored" for LEDs or if you would have to wire a resistor into each circuit.
The rear headlights and front EMD Cab headlights require two different lenght bulbs...the cab needing longer ones, but I don't recall what lengths.
Pricey, but tidy. And if you have more Athearns to convert now or down the road, the bulbs work with other Athearn locos that use the same incandescents.
These are in stock at retailers and ebay, last time I checked.
http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG67143
loggingfirefighter388When I get home this afternoon I will remove the shell and see what happens.
I like to reference the TCS web site to see if there are any tips on what might be "under the hood" of various locomotives. While not the SD 39 they do show the RTR SD40. Is it close?
https://tcsdcc.com/index.php/installation/ho-scale/1105
Athearn was one of the last hold-outs before moving away from incandescent lamps. I have a dozen or so locos that have to get the LED treatment in the near future.
Not only were the little lamps fragile, Athearn sourced them from a vendor that seems to have had a 50/50 reliability record. I've had some brand new Genesis locos with non-working incandescents.
Good Luck, Ed
Just make sure the handrails are all pulled away from the cab. The glue athearn uses is kind of sticky like rubber cement and it takes a very slow and careful hand to remove them from holes in the cab sides. I also then take the two front side railings completely off. They sometimes fall off on their own anyway especially when you do not see where they fall. Or worse you will in wrestling the cab off bend them into unrecognizable shapes.
If you turn the body over you will see a big tab that holds the back of the cab to the body. In the front there is a small tab. I always, using a small flat head modeling screwdriver push that tab down first, then holding the cab from the front sides unlatch the back tab. For some reason the back tab just wont go without that front one being unlatched first. Also be aware that, sometimes when that back latchgoes it does with some kinetic energy that can break parts off.
On of my RTR's the cab bulbs could be easily accessed from underneath. If the bulbs are stuck you cab push them out with a 2mm drill bit and a pin vise.
I have replaced most all of my RTR and Genesis GP's with Miniatronics 1.5v, 1.2mm 30ma bulbs. I also use a white canopy glue to hold them in. That way they don't shift later.
Good Luck
loggingfirefighter388 Good afternoon, I am getting ready to replace the burnt out headlight bulbs in 2 of my sd39's and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions when it comes to removing the cab in order to gain access to the two front headlight bulbs??
Good afternoon,
I am getting ready to replace the burnt out headlight bulbs in 2 of my sd39's and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions when it comes to removing the cab in order to gain access to the two front headlight bulbs??
The tabs might be accessible from the inside of the cab, not the outside.
Remove the shell and flip it over, exposing the underside of the inside of the cab. You may have to remove any interior detail first...should just slide out.
Then use toothpicks or a small bladed screwdriver to loosen the tabs.
You may be able to access the cab bulbs without removing the cab if the underside of the inside is sufficiently accessible.
Samuel,
Wedging tapered toothpicks between the chassis and the shell will make removing the shell easier if it's press fit onto the chassis.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
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