Time to start tinkering. Could be electrical but also could be mechanical.
What make of engine? I have a brass tank engine where a small wire is expected to rub on a wheel tread for pick-up. I soldered a small brass shim to the end of the wire and adjusted the tension of the wire. It helped.
I also have old Mantua/Tyco all metal tank engines where the brass bearing sleeves got dirty and worn. Just by switching them around you can help things.
Is it an open frame motor? How does it run if electrical leads are placed directly on the motor brush mounts? If the motor is removed does the chassis roll freely?
Brush tension, dirt on commutator surface, sometimes even fuzz build up on the brushes has been noted.
Dave Nelson
Exactly how is it acting
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Sadly they were never very good in that regard. A super cap on a decoder would really help.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
DigitalGriffin Sadly they were never very good in that regard. A super cap on a decoder would really help.
Agree, or else metal frogs, powered and reversible if necessary.
Still, I'd like to know what the real mechanical limitation is. I loath not knowing why something mechanical doesn't work as designed. I also believe that whatever the fault is should be relatively easily fixed, barring machining a new part because a critical one is so badly worn and out of specs. I'd rather look for a full replacement.
Tracks must be clean, and nearly planar, or else you get suspended metal tires that won't contribute to power pickup, especially at critical times.
Metal tires must be clean. Rims clean, their wiped surfaces clean where pickups rub, and of course the pickups must make good solid contact.
Solders and wires are in good order. That goes for insulation as well.
The motor is in good condition. Doesn't need new brushes, magnets....whatever.
There isn't intermittent power transmission along the entire rail system. Loose joiners are not letting you down, especially under poorly supported lengths of tracks that wobble and flex due to the weight of the locomotive.
The output from the main controller is constant and changes according to control manipulation reliably.
If there's a decoder involved, all connections are fully seated...nothing popped off over time on the main board, no tether backed out or never fully seated in the first place.
The above will cover 99.9% of all intermittent running in our hobby.
Comments from other forums warned that these loco were poor even when new. It is an Atlas 0-6-0 made in Yougoslavia. It will be a back burner restoration project.
DMK
In N scale, right? I thought the old ones were made in Austria, but that doesn't change the facts. I had one of those, and it ended up in my spare parts bin.
Simon
We cant see the pictures.
Sounds like you found the problem though, hopefully you got it to run correctly.
Charles
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
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