doctorwayneI don't know if it's a product number, but the only two that I see are K119,
Hi Wayne,
Thanks for that info. KJ119 is indeed one of the Sherwin-Williams product numbers. The KR22 that I referred to seems to be a somewhat stronger variation.
In any case, because I couldn't find any on-line sources for Sherwin-Williams lacquer thinners in Canada, I did some searching through automotive paint suppliers and I found a lacquer thinner that is described as being "very strong". It doesn't contain as many ingredients as the Sherwin-Williams KR22 or the Home Hardware stuff that I already have, but the price was right so I decided to give it a try.
This is the stuff:
https://ohcanadasupply.ca/Paint-and-Paint-Supplies/all-paint-supplies/jjj10133
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
You all know that I am not a patient person. Following that tradition I applied the first colour coat tonight instead of waiting for tomorrow, and it came out great! Instead of using the Polly Scale paint I found a bottle of TrueLine Boxcar Red and decided to use that. I have had great results with the TrueLine paints in the past so I figured it was a pretty safe bet and I was right. It is a pity that the TrueLine paints have been discontinued!
I am still learning how to use the dual action airbrush but I managed to get things done right with very few droplets of excess paint. In fact, I think that there are only two droplets that may have to be sanded down. We shall see how they look when everything has dried.
I am really looking forward to getting past the last few week's frustrations. I'm going to have to do another summary of what steps are left to get the plow done so I know where to focus my efforts.
I'll post some pictures tomorrow once the paint has thoroughly dried. I'm not sure if I will have to do a second coat.
Can't wait to see it Dave!
Mike
Here are the painted plow and tender:
I put the boiler in place. I think it looks pretty good. Sorry, the picture is a bit out of focus:
That is looking really good! Thanks for showing us!
Water Level RouteThat is looking really good! Thanks for showing us!
Thanks Mike!
Now I can work towards final assembly. There are several things that need to be done:
- For some reason the rotary blades are not properly positioned. I thought I had that worked out but that was before the disaster with the Testor's paint stripper. It shouldn't be too hard to adjust the position;
- I have to touch up the interior paint where the masking tape came loose. I think I'll do that by brush;
- I need to come up with some controls for the cupola. Nothing fancy;
- I need to complete the wiring. I'm going to install a working gauge lamp on the rear of the boiler, and I'm going to install a headlight. I want to do a hanging lantern as well. Thank goodness for 0203 LEDs. I have to add male connectors to the trucks also;
- There will also be an internal ladder to allow access to the cupola;
- At some point I will install the engines and hook up the plumbing for them. I'm leaving that for last because I don't want to damage things while I'm still fiddling with details.
I'm sure there will be tons more to do on the plow.
Then I will install a sound decoder in one of the pusher engines. I'm only going to use one engine to start. That will make it much easier to work out any bugs.
Once I have a train running I'm going to finish the extra water tanker. I already have it stripped and the dome has been cut down. I'm using a P2K 8,000 gal. riveted tank car as the donor. I will replace the plastic hand rails with pb wire, and I have to build a platform to go around what is left of the dome.
At some point I will add a caboose, a tool car, a crew car and of course, a second pusher engine.
Still lots to do but at least I am finally back on track.
Thanks for your interest.
Now you need to weather it LOL.
rrebellNow you need to weather it LOL.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I suspect that you are saying that with tongue in cheek, as it were.
Bear need not be worried. I don't intend to weather it because it was a prototype so I suspect that it would have been maintained in pretty good condition. I might add a trace of soot around the smoke stack.
I got the drive system back in place. All I needed to do was install the second mounting screw. That will teach me to not be lazy!
I got the connector plugs installed on the trucks. That actually went very smoothly. Next I'm going to install the brake system.
Good morning
It's quite an accomplishment you had the persistence to jump all those hurdles that got in your way. That's dedication my friend, to keep rolling through the downfalls when others probably would have given up. I bet you're glad you can start seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.
She's looking Excellent Dave!
TF
Track fiddlerShe's looking Excellent Dave!
Thanks TF,
I need some help. I'm installing a Westinghouse KC style brake system but the Tichy kit didn't come with any instructions and I don't have any cars with a KC system modeled in detail. Can anyone refer my to a reference where I can see all the details? I have found a diagram for the air system but not for the rods and pivots.
Thanks,
Edit,
I found a sketch showing all the mechanical parts so I'm good to go. However, if anyone wants to share some pictures that would be great!
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/13/t/288796.aspx
Thanks JaBear and Ed! Exactly what I needed!
I'm still working on the braking system. I had to move the brake cylinder/air resevoir assembly because where I placed it the first time didn't allow me to fit all of the linkages and levers into place. I have had to make a shut off valve and a dirt filter from drain cocks because the Tichy kit didn't come with any air connections or details (disappointing!).
I'm still scratching my head about where to position the air lines. If someone (doctorwayne maybe?) could provide me with a picture of said arrangements that would be greatly appreciated!
The final set of name decals are on the way. I had recieved one set already but they were a bit too large and the font was too heavy so I revised the order.
I have ordered them from Bedlam Creations in the US, and I am a bit disappointed that I have had to punch up both orders to actually get them produced. Not a great way to do business.
I'm slowly figuring out the brake system. As has been usual with this project, I discovered that the main cylinder wasn't in the right place and it was pointing in the wrong direction so I ripped it out. Fortunately I had a second set of Tichy parts.
I also decided to use the levers (pivots?) from a set of tender brakes because they are slightly longer and will fit the installation better. I still have to decide where to put the brake wheel assembly so that it doesn't interfere with the movement of coal from the tender to the boiler.
The paint job and the rivet decals are holding up just fine despite repeated handling, thank goodness!
I've got one rather unsightly problem under the front of the plow. In order to be able to remove the trucks easily, I installed connector plugs in the pick-up wires. The front plug is encased in some really tough epoxy, and as usual I used far too much glue so I have a blob that has to be disguised. I can't simply put a cover plate over the area because the front axle would hit it when in a curve. I'm going to carefully grind away some of the epoxy to see how much space I can create. I have to be able to access the plug. I haven't quite figured that out yet.
Wouldn't clear adhesive silicone caulk let you 'encapsulate' the plug cleanly and keep it positioned indefinitely, but allow easy (and visually guided) access with a razor knife or blade if required?
OvermodWouldn't clear adhesive silicone caulk let you 'encapsulate' the plug cleanly and keep it positioned indefinitely,
Hi Overmod,
I wanted to level off the whole area so I decided to grind the existing epoxy down to the surface of the plug and then install a two piece styrene plate with an access slot in it. There is just enough clearance for the front wheels to pivot and enough space to tuck any excess wire up inside the cover plate. The little cutout at the bottom of the cover plate was made to clear the wires that come from the rear truck plug:
I managed to knock the control valves off of the second brake cylinder when I was working on covering the messy epoxy. I shouldn't have installed the cylinder until the very last because the valves were obviously very fragile. I'm not very good at thinking these things through. I have ordered a brass cylinder assembly, dirt collector and shut off valve from Precision Scale. Hopefully they will be able to withstand my clumsy handling.
Dave,
I check the forums several times a day just to see your latest progress. When you're done with this, you'll have to start a new project ASAP!
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Pruitt Dave, I check the forums several times a day just to see your latest progress. When you're done with this, you'll have to start a new project ASAP!
Attuvian1 Nah, we need to send him on vacation
Hi John,
When I am sitting at my workbench I feel like I am on vacation! The last half of my career as a salesman with Sears Canada was extremely stressful! I hated it with a passion! I was elated on the day that I finally told Sears to stuff it. Every day since then has been a vacation.
When I'm working on a modeling project I have an almost zen like calmness. That's why the numerous setbacks with the plow project have not put me off of it. I don't need a break, I need more of it!
As far as my next project is concerned, I have a layout that has been languishing in the garage for far too long. However, the light at the end of the tunnel has just recently been re-lit. I have met a gentleman who is interested in helping me with the layout. He was an electrician for CN and he loves anything to do with trains. He has offered to help me with the wiring on the layout as a start. I think I am going to take him up on his offer.
That's not to say that there won't be other rolling stock projects in the future. Right now I don't have anything specific in mind but I'm open to suggestions.
By the way, I'd be perfectly happy to have all of you pay for the work on the layout!! As if!
hon30critter Hi John, When I am sitting at my workbench I feel like I am on vacation! The last half of my career as a salesman with Sears Canada was extremely stressful! I hated it with a passion! I was elated on the day that I finally told Sears to stuff it. Every day since then has been a vacation. When I'm working on a modeling project I have an almost zen like calmness. That's why the numerous setbacks with the plow project have not put me off of it. I don't need a break, I need more of it! As far as my next project is concerned, I have a layout that has been languishing in the garage for far too long. However, the light at the end of the tunnel has just recently been re-lit. I have met a gentleman who is interested in helping me with the layout. He was an electrician for CN and he loves anything to do with trains. He has offered to help me with the wiring on the layout as a start. I think I am going to take him up on his offer. That's not to say that there won't be other rolling stock projects in the future. Right now I don't have anything specific in mind but I'm open to suggestions. By the way, I'd be perfectly happy to have all of you pay for the work on the layout!! As if! Cheers!! Dave
Attuvian1I wonder what "HOn3Critter" would look like on Go Fund Me? What a concept for model railroading: crowd funding!!
Mark Pruitt is already doing that to help finance his videos of the CB&Q in Wyoming. He already has a huge following for his monthly layout progress videos, and he has a YouTube channel as well. He wants to upgrade his video equipment so that he can produce more professional looking videos. He has set up an account on the Patreon website:
www.patreon.com/user?u=80405798
Although I am a small contributor to Mark's fund, I would not be comfortable asking others to finance my own modeling. Mark's fund will benefit a lot of people through the excellent videos he produces. Any funding for my own work would mostly benefit just me. I would rather that others give money to a worthwhile charity.
Oops, Dave. My idea was entirely tongue-in-cheek. I had no idea that it is already being employed elsewhere, at least in some manner.
Least I be misunderstood here, as a fundamental supporter of entrepreneurialism I am not adverse to Mark's fund. After all, folks are free to participate or not as they are lead - and based on what is produced for and in them by their investment.
Now, back to the plow (plough) . . .
John
Attuvian1Oops, Dave. My idea was entirely tongue-in-cheek.
I figured that you were joking but I thought I would put in a good word for Mark.
hon30critter Hi John, I figured that you were joking but I thought I would put in a good word for Mark. Cheers!! Dave
I haven't done much on the plow over the last couple of days. I was busy designing a small kitchen for some friends' cottage. I love doing that stuff.
I did mark the electrical plugs for polarity and I made sure that the wires from the trucks would fit into the sockets without interfering with the wheels or the truck movement. Everything was fine. Yes, you read that correctly. I managed to get things right the first time! Hopefully I've started a trend.
The next step will be to touch up the paint on the underside of the plow. There isn't much to do so I will use a brush. The TrueLine paints brush on very nicely.
I also have to finish detailing the rear pilot beam. All I need to do is add a couple of poling pockets and some stirrups. I may fake a coupler pocket even though the plow and the tender will be connected by a draw bar.
hon30critterYes, you read that correctly. I managed to get things right the first time! Hopefully I've started a trend
Tonight I got the paint on the frame and the shell touched up and then I did a test fit for the boiler and engines with the rotary blade drive running through the engines. Things fit together almost perfectly! (Bear might be right - maybe getting things correct the first time around is becoming a habit!). Despite my not having taken any measurements, the rotary blade drive shaft slides right through the engines without any interference! I have to make a couple of very minor adjustments to the steam pipes to make it all fit properly.
I spent the evening adjusting the alignment between the engine steam pipes and the boiler, as well as testing the LEDs and determining the the best resistor values for each light.
To get the engines/boiler alignment correct I had to make a couple of small adjustments to the bottom of the steam pipe that feeds the engines. Part of the task involved shortening and then coring the steam pipe from the boiler. Coring the brass pipe was really easy thanks to some high quality drill bits that I bought in the summer from Grainger.
For years I have struggled with poorly made drill bits. This past summer I decided to invest in some really good drill bits and the difference is like night and day!!! The bits cut into the brass quickly and easily, even without lubrication. Obviously, they aren't cheap but IMHO they are worth every penny!
I am going to install at least three 0402 LEDs in the plow, namely a headlight, a gauge light and a hanging lantern. I wanted to vary the intensity of the lights. For example, I wanted the gauge light to be fairly dim so I used a 30.1K resistor. I wanted the headlight to be fairly bright so I'm using a standard 1.0K resistor there, and I wanted the hanging lantern to be fairly bright but not blinding so I used a 5.1K resistor for it. All of the LEDs were dipped into clear epoxy to form a globe that distributes the light more evenly.
I also tinted all of the LEDs with Tamiya's 'Clear Yellow'. The gauge light and the lantern colours are perfect, but the headlight was a bit too yellow. My solution for that was to scrape a bit of the yellow paint off of the very center of the LED so that the normal 'warm white' colour would show in the very center of the bulb but the light hitting the reflector still has a yellow cast to it.
Pictures to follow once the plow is finally assembled.
More details to follow.