And here's part 5!
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Part 4 is up! This was a long one, but there's a lot to do when you're getting these things right.
Part 5 (which was originally going to be part of this video) will be done soon!
Darth, your re-motoring work is impressive ...
Simon
Back now for part 3! This time I install the original motor as well come up with a way to mount a new motor.
hon30critter Interesting video Darth, Your photography skills are amazing. What are you using that allows you to get in so close?
Interesting video Darth,
Your photography skills are amazing. What are you using that allows you to get in so close?
Thanks! I bolted a really long PC monitor arm to my workbench and have a phone clip attached to that, and then the actual camera is my iPhone.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thank you Darth.
Been over twenty years since I riveted the valve gear on my Bowser I1sa. Still one of the best running locomotives I own. Keep on keeping on.
Pete.
Finally back for part 2! The main rods and valve gear are now assembled:
Darth, I missed this when you posted it a few days ago...
I find these very useful, and I learn a lot. Please keep these coming.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have enough locomotive projects to last a life time, and now you're making me want a Bowser steamer! Not gonna do it. But nice video just the same. Dan
Darth.
A brass brush in a rotary tool will get the stubborn chips out. Safety glasses is definitely a minimum, better a full shield would be better. I found a twisted brass brush for a 6 inch grinder many years ago that works awesome. The twisted knots keep the bristles on the brush and it's not too aggressive. Then a light coat of oil or a quick shot of penetrating lube and a wipe with a cloth will keep the chips from sticking. Also. Don't use your good files for softer metals like aluminum and brass. A single cut file is better for that.
Sorry. I didn't mean it in any derogatory sentiment. I have some worn out files that I keep around for stuff I don't want my good files to get ruined or I'll use first and finish the job with the good sharp file.
Please keep the videos coming.
Thanks! The videos will be coming as I get things done.
I do try to clean out my files now and then using stiff metal brushes and all, but the grit does build up fast when they get a lot of use. Aside from the crud, the files themselves are actually still in good shape.
Hi Darth,
I'm looking forward to the rest of the series.
I'm sure you know how to maintain your files, but FWIW I use a small steel brush (looks like a toothbrush but I don't recommend using for same!) and a #11 Xacto blade to clean my jewellers files. The brush takes out most of the accumulation but sometimes the tip of the #11 is needed to remove the tough bits. The more often the files are cleaned, the easier they are to keep clean. Lecture over!!
By the way, I'm proud of how clean you are keeping your work surface these days!
Cheers!!
Thanks Darth.
Looks like we need to take up a collection and get you some new files. One thing my dad pounded into me was to take care of the tools. He was a machinist and had all his files clean, oiled lightly and wrapped individually in felt pouches. Most of his files are older than I am and I'm 63. Now I have to care for them.
Keep the series coming. I built the I1sa 2-10-0 about twenty five years ago and it is the strongest pulling loco in the fleet.
Love those Bowser kits and your videos Darth. Please keep them coming.
Joe
Darth, many of us are still building kits, so yes, please continue with your series!
I have that exact kit sitting on my shelf, your videos may encourage me to do it. I'm sure I will learn something from your experience.
Another kit series? WHY NOT!?
This time I'm building a Bowser M1 4-8-2! I'll be going into more detail than with the last series, doing more with the kit, and correcting some little mistakes I may have made last time around. Since I'll be going into more detail, there are going to be more videos to better show specific areas of each process, and the timing will be more spread out instead of trying to do everything back-to-back.
For part 1, I build the basic chassis: