Trainman440 Gonna try MS and 70% isopropyl alcohol tomorrow.
Gonna try MS and 70% isopropyl alcohol tomorrow.
How did that work out?
Rick
I give up on trying to use physical methods. Ive spent an hour with masking tape...even using a hair dryer to heat the glue and letting it cool for better adhesion, with no sucess. Theres still roughly 60% of it left. Seems like the old decal didnt like sticking at certain areas, but still adhered properly in other areas.
Gonna try MS and 70% isopropyl alcohol tomorrow. The credit card already ripped off some of the paint...shouldve known with how poor the decal job was, that the original paint job wouldnt have been much better.
Charles
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
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Trainman440 Thanks for the helpful suggestions! Im going to try my hardest to avoid having to do a complete repaint. Ive already done the masking tape trick, hopefully more of it can come off. Had no clue mineral spirits didnt mess with paint, I'll try it on the bottom to make sure it doesnt affect the paint and then try to remove the reset of the decals that way as a backup plan. Charles
Thanks for the helpful suggestions!
Im going to try my hardest to avoid having to do a complete repaint. Ive already done the masking tape trick, hopefully more of it can come off.
Had no clue mineral spirits didnt mess with paint, I'll try it on the bottom to make sure it doesnt affect the paint and then try to remove the reset of the decals that way as a backup plan.
Yes, try an area first.
Before you try the MS, make sure there is actually a layer of dullcote over the paint and that it isn't just matte finish oil-based paint. The MS will mess with the paint a little if its not covered by dullcote or the decal.
The MS does not mess with water based paint, other than the sheen (if even that), unless you bear down and try to affect it. Since you may be glosscoting and then decaling over a changed paint sheen, and dullcoting to finish, any change of the sheen under the lettering should not be seen.
You can also remove final bits of decal by scraping gently with a credit card. Keep the motion vertical since any paint scratches will look like natural weathering streaks. Again, since you're redecaling over any slight damage, its should be concealed in the end. I'd wager that you can get the decal off by scraping and avoid using any liquids that can be more of a problem.
- Douglas
Trainman440 Secondly, we know that placing decals on a matte surface is a big no no.
Secondly, we know that placing decals on a matte surface is a big no no.
Not really. That may be some people's convention but I do it all the time. I have only have "silvering" twice and I have lettered 75-100 pieces of rolling stock and quite a few buildings as well. Some of the buildings have been over acrylic craft paint and on metallic silver model paint as well for some of my railcars.
I just use a lot of Microset and then as needed Microsol if the decal needs it. About the only colors I haven't decaled on are purple and gold.
You can remove rattle can dullcote that's been applied over the decals with mineral spirits and a qtip. Hopefully, the dullcote is thin (since the decals are falling off already). Mineral spritis should not affect a factory paint job like alcohol would.... At worst, it will dull the sheen.
The MS will tear up the decal before it even hits the factory paint, if you're careful.
Apply brushable glosscote over the area to be redecaled. A THIN coat, it doesn't take much to get a glossy enough sheen for decals. Then decal normally. Then a dullcote application sprayed over the entire tender should blend every thing in.
Edit: The quicker version for your situation:
Keep applying masking tape over the decal...rub it in.....and pull it off until all of the decal finally comes off. Then glosscote the area to be redecaled.
If you've successfully removed the numbers from the cab, you could mask-off the cab roof and anything else that's not part of the cab's side, then repaint it, add a gloss coat, apply the decals, then Glosscote again, followed by Dullcote and, if you wish, a little weathering. I'd suggest the same for the tender, but removal of the lettering seems to be a little more involved.I'd usually find it easiest to simply strip the sides of the tender, using carefully applied brush-loads of paint stripper, periodically wiped off with paper towels or rags. You could then re-paint the sides (or the whole tender if some other paint was accidentally removed), and re-letter it as you would any painted model, with the usual gloss/decal/gloss/matte rigmarole.
Wayne
Engine is a Sunset Prestige PRR H6sb
Some photos!
Cab was lettered 74 but in a none PRR font and the 4 was mounted higher than the 7 for whatever reason.
Removed decals...some of the black paint underneath the DGLE is exposed but Im okay with that.
Tender decal is rubbing off...learned of this as I was masking up the tender to paint the tender roof...when I removed the masking tape from the sides some of the decal went with it.
You can see the glossy paint underneath...either thats the remaining decal film without the yellow print or its the glossy DGLE paint underneath.
Any advice is appreciated!
Hi all, I sort of have this dilemma right now. I have an engine where the original paint is fine, but the decal job is quite frankly horrendous. Parts of the decal have just rubbed off, so I want to get rid of these decals and reletter the engine.
Unfortunately, the engine already has a dullcote finish, and this impedes two things. First, it makes removing the decals significantly harder, since I cant just use microsol to melt the decals off. Secondly, we know that placing decals on a matte surface is a big no no.
So far, I've found an okay method for removing the decal without significantly destroying the paint, using a combination of 70% iso propyl alcohol, water, a pen eracer, and micro grit sand paper.
As a result, the surface has become rather semi-shiny/glossy due to me effectively removing the original dullcote, and also polishing up the paint using such fine grit paper.
My question is this: How should I go about redecaling this engine? Is it really necessary to repaint the area with a high shine gloss finish, then decal, then put another dull finishing coat? The surface is already somewhat shiny (satin finish) due to the mild abrasives. Remember, Im only working with the cab sides and tender sides, so it might be tough trying to blend in with the rest of the loco.
How would you guys go about relettering an engine without removing the original paint?