That is a major part of the problem. The ads/importer's info show one thing, yet something very different comes out of the box. Unfortunately, I must rely on the internet for my hobby needs, therefore there is no chance to review the model prior to purchase. And I model from 35mm color slides I shot myself, so I know what the color of the prototype was-on multiple examples of those cars.
I too am able to fade or if necessary, strip and repaint models but with prices ranging from $40 and up, I believe, at least get the color close to being correct.
As far as "primed for grime", keep it the way Athearn is doing it. Only a portion of the offering should reflect a period of exposure to the rigors of service. There should always be the factory fresh segment for those who prefer that approach. I too hate the "one size fits all" approach to anything. And, I've been repainting and decaling since the 1970s. I just can't understand how three reputable importers could show the correct colors in their advertising, yet sell something that is correct in shape only, at today's prices. Why is it only the blue cars, they get so wrong?
NHTXAtlas Savannah State Docks FMC 5347 cu. Ft. Intermountain Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac PS 5277 cu. ft.
When I looked these up, they look pretty dead on to my eyes.
Of course there are other times where a reputable company will produce a scheme that is just wrong. (I'm not referring to "fantasy" schemes.) Sometimes it's as simple as a wrong road number that's easy to fix. However there have been some where the font(s) is/are completely wrong. Hence the car needs a complete relettering job. (Not hard for me but it is annoying especially when there is photographic or written evidence showing the right details and they still get it wrong.) I even have seen a expensive (>$200) brass car where the scheme was reversed on one side.
cv_acrYou can fade and weather a factory fresh paint job, you can't "unweather" a preweathered paint job if you in fact model an era where those cars are new...
Absolutely...I've bought a lot of used rolling stock (locos, too) that had been weathered poorly and the only alternative was to strip them completely, then start afresh with new paint and my version of weathering. While I think that it, for the most part, looks quite acceptable, I wouldn't be surprised if the next owner of some of them thought otherwise...although, as I think about it now, it's more likely that painting and weathering will be, by then, a lost art for many modellers.
Wayne
Orange for some reason is a real problem in model railroading. As a DT&I modeler we get various shades of orange on our engines. In some circles Athearn is too orange (I agree) while Atlas is closer with a slightly reddish tinge. It is something that even DT&I modeler can't agree on in the old Yahoo group we had hundreds of posts disagreeing on DT&I orange.
In the DT&I modelers website under paint colors there are 14 different formulas for the orange with comments like to orange or too red. So in retrospect go what looks good to you.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
If you want more information on Great Northern colors go here; https://www.gnrhs.org/rs28_page_8.htm
Monitor calibration is key if you want to compare colors off your screen.
Look at some Proto locomotives, you will see a large variation in Pullman Green also.
Lee
NHTXThankfully Athearn has realized that not everyone models brand new from the shops equipment with their "primed for grime" series. I hope others will offer cars and locomotives with less than new or, perfect paint if they really intend to sell really realistic models.
You can fade and weather a factory fresh paint job, you can't "unweather" a preweathered paint job if you in fact model an era where those cars are new...
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
I feel the same frustration over three boxcars I ordered:
Athearn RTR Corinth and Counce Pullman-Standard Pullman-Standard 5344 cu. ft.
Atlas Savannah State Docks FMC 5347 cu. Ft.
Intermountain Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac PS 5277 cu. ft.
All of these cars are a dark blue, like a navy blue, or B&O Enchantment Blue while the prototypes are more like GN Big Sky Blue or Rock Blue. When the manfacturers produce these things one be would be led to believe they would work from color chips or color photographs, so what is the excuse? Why accept the order, if the producer gets the color so wrong?
Another gripe is black. We all know that no matter where we build our layouts, our lighting will not equal the sun. So why the dead, detail erasing black? I never paint anything black. I use burnt umber because it has a slight bit of brown in it that permits detail to show through. It is especially good for tank cars gondolas, hoppers, and locomotives that are not fresh out of the shops, but are not yet ready to fall apart.
Thankfully Athearn has realized that not everyone models brand new from the shops equipment with their "primed for grime" series. I hope others will offer cars and locomotives with less than new or, perfect paint if they really intend to sell really realistic models.
Well, if you don't care for the S-2's orange, or even some of the other oranges, why not simply repaint them with a more "suitable" orange.
If that's too much work, simply don't let those various "orange-pretenders" mingle with the real orange.That way, as you look at each, in-turn, but separately, they'll all look just fine.
One of my favorite locomotives is an Atlas Alco S-2. It is classic EB scheme, orange-yellow-green. Another favorite, an atlas RS, has the same scheme. Our third example, an Atlas GP-7. So, here is the question, why doesent the S-2 look orange anymore? I mean, by itself, it is defiantly orange. Then you put it next to the GP-7 and it looks, well, less orange. Then you park her next to the stupidly vibrant orange of the RS, and it looks very sadly faded. Has anyone else noticed this? Because the yellow and the Pullman green change very little. Colors like boxcar red or oxide red seem to be super consistent. But orange, teal, ect. vary wildly. It seems to me, the darker the shade, the more consistency across different manufacturers and different production runs. Maybe I am overthinking this.
JJF
Prototypically modeling the Great Northern in Minnesota with just a hint of freelancing.
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Tomorrow is a Mystery.
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