Paul3 maxman,With the switchover to Kadee #148's, the red washer made the coupler height perfect on my Rapido F30's.
maxman,With the switchover to Kadee #148's, the red washer made the coupler height perfect on my Rapido F30's.
So this means that the Rapido flats were riding low prior to the washer installation. Good to know. Thanks.
Oh, and I sent you an email on another topic.
Paul3 I bought a dozen of the Rapido F30 flats; 6 in PRR TOFC and 6 in TTX.I replaced all the couplers with Kadee #148 whisker couplers.I also added a single red Kadee washer to every truck bolster. If you are experiencing any drag or squeaking sounds from your Rapido F30 flats, add one red Kadee washer and see if that fixes it. It worked for me.
I bought a dozen of the Rapido F30 flats; 6 in PRR TOFC and 6 in TTX.I replaced all the couplers with Kadee #148 whisker couplers.I also added a single red Kadee washer to every truck bolster. If you are experiencing any drag or squeaking sounds from your Rapido F30 flats, add one red Kadee washer and see if that fixes it. It worked for me.
Paul, what does adding the washer do to the coupler height? Is it correct to begin with, or does adding the washer bring it to the proper height?
I too will be replacing the couplers with #148's as original head Kadees are a requirement on my layout.
The jury is out on the trucks, but there is a high likelyhood I will replace them as well with my standard formula - Kadee sprung trucks with Intermountain wheelsets.
These cars will get lettered for the ATLANTIC CENTRAL.
I may consider picking up a few in PRR if they are still available, but I do consider the piggyback roster to be pretty much full at this point.
The piggyback roster includes kit bashed Athearn 40' and 50' cars, Walthers GSC 53' cars and 75' cars, Bachmann 50' cars, Tichy 40' cars, F&C 40' cars and a few odd balls from the way past like old Ulrich kits.
The fleet includes a long list of roadnames - I stretch history a bit with the amount of piggyback interchange model.
In addition to the ATLANTIC CENTRAL you will see piggybacks from B&O, C&O, WM, NH, PRR, Wabash, CNW, GN, SP, UP, NYC, ATSF, and others.
Sheldon
Well, I can finally say I own a piece of Rapido rolling stock - three pieces actually.
My three flat cars showed up today. I have only taken a quick look at one, and since I purchased the undecorated version, they are kits.
They do appear to be well made and exceptionally detailed.
I have not even sat the rolling chassis on a piece of track yet, so I cannot comment on the rolling quality issue yet.
They will make a nice addition to my already extensive early 50's piggyback fleet.
But I am in no way motivated to discard any of my "more generic" models and buy 100 more of these from Rapido....... I'm not picking on the price, I bought three of them without a second thought.
Yes, I currently have about 100 early 50's piggyback flats of various brands and various kit bash projects.
Fortunately I cured my OCD many decades ago, and it is of no concern to me that many of my other models are not as detailed or as proto correct as these Rapido models.
In the era I model, even the Rapido car is only correct for one railroad.......
The impossible challenge remains for modeler and manufacturer alike - most early piggyback flats were home built conversions - so they were different on every railroad.
So even if we had enough photos, and enough info, it would be an overwhelming project to build 100 truely accurate early piggybacks.
Now I'm off to the basement to install a few more lights for the new layout.....
If my undecorated ones do show up, sounds like the couplers and trucks will go in the scrap heap in favor of my usual formula, Kadee sprung trucks with Intermountain wheelsets and #5 or #148 couplers.
The floating separate brake shoes on the Kadee trucks never cause problems.
My six arrived today. Five of them roll very well. Not as good as some recent models, but they will be fine as is. The X31s all roll beautifully. The sixth, an F30D in "Delivery Scheme" sounds like it has the handbrake set. It seems to be interference with the molded brake shoes and the wheel tread.
I wonder how many truck frames are mede in one "shot"? Sometimes you can see a small number molded in an unconspicuous place, this being the cavity number. I don't see them on these trucks. Maybe one cools differently or somehow doesn't "measure up".
Macdonald Cartier couplers, as noted above, go in a scrap gondola load.
[edit] Two of the cars had coupler knuckles that were completely dysfunctional due to flash. Since they were in the shop I looked at replacing wheelsets. The Intermountain gave the best results. Their overall point-to-point length being 1.0045 whereas the original Rapido axle is 1.0115. I tried a set of Kadee 520s with an O.A. length of 1.0160 and these weren't a good fit in the Rapido sideframe. They roll OK but not any better than stock.
Rapido uses a plastic on these trucks that is not as flexible as the usual "Delrin" type. IF you use a truck tuner, go gently. A lot of material gets removed very quickly. One light rotation is plenty without any added finger force on the outside of the frames.
Cheers, Ed
No problem, John. I simply mentioned the added details because I had forgotten to include my usual "Click on photo for a larger view". On the non-enlarged view, those added details are barely visible.I certainly wouldn't disparage Rapido's offerings either, but they're pretty-well out of my financial reach, and also beyond my need for more rolling stock.I have a few kitbashes and scratchbuilds to do, but that'll wrap-up my need for rolling stock.
Wayne
Hi Wayne--
No disrespect was intended toward the real modelers who upgrade their models. I was merely pointing out that for all the money spent, the Rapido rtr version actually looks like a million bucks, and to me even the wheelsets look much better than Walthers...I acknowledge that kit builders can use whatever fine wheelsets they desire.
As for me, I can retouch paint very well when needed, and was very good at decal work, but I lack the time and patience to model at a high level, so I'm guilty of buying rtr, lol.
John
PRR8259...I personally do not understand how anybody could possibly compare the Rapido tank car or the F30D flat car, with its finescale metal stirrup steps, to any Accurail kit....
I must have missed that post, but I did show a Walthers version of the F30D in an earlier post in this thread, and it shows fine scale metal stirrup steps and free-standing metal grabirons, along with added weights on the underbody, all added by me. The Walthers kits came with similar details for the car's deck, but I didn't use them as such, since my layout predates the TOFC era.
I picked up a Trailer Train F30D yesterday on a whim...was picking up my Rapido Kodachrome ATSF B36-7 at the same time.
The flat car is absolutely fantastic. Though I personally do NOT care for the NON-actual-Kadee coupler, they work ok. I put the flat car on the track between two of the brand new Rapido Procor as-delivered 1973 era tank cars, and they all run just fine.
I occasionally will hear a squeak in a new freight car. Sometimes it is a little metal shaving stuck somewhere that just needs picked out. That can happen with Tangent Scale Models cars as well as Rapido. Other times I oil the offending wheelset, and that is the end of the issue.
I personally do not understand how anybody could possibly compare the Rapido tank car or the F30D flat car, with its finescale metal stirrup steps, to any Accurail kit. The painting and lettering alone on the rtr Rapido car is way better than any Accurail car I have ever seen.
I am very pleased to see both Tangent and Rapido now going to metal finescale stirrup steps! That really stands out on the models even at 3' away. With the finescale steps, the freight cars truly look real. They definitely stand out in a train, even with my should have bifocal eyes.
John Mock
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Still waiting for the ones I ordered? But I will most likely replace the trucks. I install Kadee sprung metal trucks with Intermountain wheelsets on most of my freight cars. Sheldon
Still waiting for the ones I ordered? But I will most likely replace the trucks. I install Kadee sprung metal trucks with Intermountain wheelsets on most of my freight cars.
Sheldon, I know you are waiting for undecorated cars slowly coming your way. I get to my LHS maybe everyother day and I can see the decorated flats and TOFC 100+ stacks getting less and less each time I visit.
These cars are moving fast.
Bob, PC101
n012944 I have both, the regular flat car and the one set up for trailers. Both versions roll just fine.
I have both, the regular flat car and the one set up for trailers. Both versions roll just fine.
Lucky you.
An "expensive model collector"
mvlandsw I received my flats today. The Trailer Train lettering panel fell off as I removed the car from the package and one air hose was loose in the box. The car seems to roll normally. The coupler is not a Kadee as mentioned in the video. It looks like the body of the coupler is about the same as the Kadee #158 but the knuckle is as big as the #5, maybe to lessen the chance of uncoupling on rough track.
I received my flats today. The Trailer Train lettering panel fell off as I removed the car from the package and one air hose was loose in the box.
The car seems to roll normally.
The coupler is not a Kadee as mentioned in the video. It looks like the body of the coupler is about the same as the Kadee #158 but the knuckle is as big as the #5, maybe to lessen the chance of uncoupling on rough track.
If your cars are ''Trailer Train, TTX'' (that the lettering panel fell off) with the deck hitch for a trailer, wheel humps alongside the hitch and two bridge plates on the ends, yes the cars I have also roll very nicely.
It is the flat cars I have, flat deck, no hitch, no trailer wheel humps and no bridge plates. These cars roll with resistance.
Ok I'm back on the 50' F30A flat car. I will submit this reply then edit it as I tack more infomation on. I hate it when the work I do disappears. That back button on the left side of the mouse
Has anybody here picked up one or more of these flat cars?
How does it roll? Like the brakes are dragging? I have eight so far, all eight roll like the brakes are dragging.
Here are my many trial and errors. Save time and go straight down to #9.
1) the wheels are not touching the underbody.
2) the wheels are in gauge.
3) there is a one shiny spot on the wheel tread, the wheel is rubbing the brake shoe, so off come the brake shoes. This could only happen with a bent axle or the wheel not centered on the axle or the wheel has runout (out of round) on the tread.
4) let's try the axle tuner on one set of trucks, what do I have to lose, and install original wheel sets. (a little better)
5) change to KADEE wheel sets. (no better)
6) install original wheel sets and install a KADEE red fiber washer between the truck and body to get more body lift. (no better)
7) there was a small plastic bag with extra trucks (fake roller bearing type) and grab irons (unpainted) in one car's box (only one out of the eight flat cars had the extra bag) Let's put the original wheel sets in them and install them on the car. Can't, the hole's ID in the truck bolster is .128'', the car's screw boss is .130'' OD. OK let's reem out the truck's bolster hole, now the truck fits nice but the car still will not roll nicely.
8) on the way home from work I stop at my LHS for some INTERMOUNTAIN 33'' wheel sets #40050.
9) so far I have installed the INTERMOUNTAIN 33'' #40050 wheel sets in the untuned fake roller bearing trucks on the one LV car and in the original untuned trucks that came on two PC cars. THE CARS ROLL VERY NICE NOW.
EDIT: If you need to lay the flat car over on it's deck, use wood blocks to lay it on, watch the brake wheel shaft, it is a very soft wire.
To see a real life picture of TOFC TTX #475056 in brown/red paint, look at ''PIGGYBACK COLOR GUIDE VOLUME 2: I to X by James Kinkaid'' bottom of page 89, dated Dec. 1966.
Looks like RAPIDO is coming out with 35' 1955 to 1960 eraand 40' 1960+ era Trailers. This should be interesting.
Now I am wondering...what diamater will RAPIDO's Trailer kingpin will be? I better hold off drilling out my other TOFC's hitch kingpin holes.
I can't wait to ''weather'' them. Well, maybe I can wait till next month anyway.
Here are some pictures of the 50' F30D TOFC car.
The Trailer is not included in the RAPIDO F30D TOFC package and is not a RAPIDO product.
The enlarged kingpin hole.
Anyway, the Big Hook came and lifted the Trailer off the TOFC car so Eddy, the guy on his knee, is starting to get the rerailer in place so Tommy, the guy with his hands in the air will signal Gene the Engineer to move the Loco.
PC101 The subject being noted in this Reply is about RAPIDO's 50' F30D TOFC car. This is a really nice car. Thanks RAPIDO. The first thing I needed to do (not the fault of the car) was drill out the trailer hitch's kingpin hole. I am thankful Rapido made the kingpin hole undersize. I used a micrometer on four different brands of trailers kingpins that I have and got three different measuments. So I settled on a #52 or .063'' drill bit and a pin vise to enlarge the hole. Now my trailer's kingpin fits the hitch's hole. If you have a drill bit number/decimal gauge I suggest you see what hole your trailer's kingpin fits in before you drill out your hltch's hole. Tomorrow night I will see why the F30A TOFC does not roll smoothly/freely as my other rolling stock does.
The subject being noted in this Reply is about RAPIDO's 50' F30D TOFC car.
This is a really nice car. Thanks RAPIDO.
The first thing I needed to do (not the fault of the car) was drill out the trailer hitch's kingpin hole. I am thankful Rapido made the kingpin hole undersize. I used a micrometer on four different brands of trailers kingpins that I have and got three different measuments. So I settled on a #52 or .063'' drill bit and a pin vise to enlarge the hole. Now my trailer's kingpin fits the hitch's hole. If you have a drill bit number/decimal gauge I suggest you see what hole your trailer's kingpin fits in before you drill out your hltch's hole.
Tomorrow night I will see why the F30A TOFC does not roll smoothly/freely as my other rolling stock does.
UPDATE. It is not the 50' F30D TOFC flat car that rolls with resistance, it rolls just fine.
It is the 50' F30A flat car that has a squeak and resistance as I roll it down the rails.
doctorwayneSince this seems to be the original post of the two similar threads on the Rapido flatcar (might be a good idea to combine the two threads)
Would if I could, Wayne. That capability is another fatality on the ever-growing forum software glitch list. Yea...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Since this seems to be the original post of the two similar threads on the Rapido flatcar (might be a good idea to combine the two threads), I'll weigh-in here with my comments.While I'd like to be able to support Rapido, they've offered very little that would suit my layout's timeframe.I do have a Rapido meat reefer, built from their kit, and a number of their turnout motors, too. The freight cars they've offered, that would be suitable for my layout's era, are nicely rendered, but in my opinion, no better than the similar cars from Accurail, to which I've added similar details (underbody brake gear and metal grabirons) at very little addional cost.
While their version of the F30D flatcar, in various guises, is nicely done and rendered as a mostly cast-metal offering, I don't see it being all that superior to the earlier rendition that was offered by Walthers.
I was fortunate to get 8 of the undecorated Walthers cars, at a now long-gone hobbyshop, at a cost just a little less than that of two Rapido flatcars.They came with similar details for TOFC service (I used some of those parts elsewhere, as there wasn't much TOFC stuff in the late '30s).
I did add weight to my cars, and they track well, even when they're right behind the tender on a long train.
There are only a couple of freight cars that I'll be buying (likely from Bowser) and several that I'll be scratchbuilding.
I do understand that many modellers nowadays prefer r-t-r, but I'm not among them.
Sorry Rapido, I wish you the best, but cannot afford to help.
gmpullmanAt least they're not the ones dipped in chocolate-brown paint.
The bane of my existence! Our club prohibits plastic couplers and those always throw me off. They look like plastic.
Aaron
Hi
unrelated to this I saw you post an interesting thing about wiring in a EM 1 Backmann steamer. My wires from the four prong plug to the loco from the tender frayed. I have to re install them. But I don't know which wire goes into which pin on the loco. you said it verbally but suggested a picture which seems to be not available now. It was a 2019 post. Could you please help me Thanks. Al
My post in the related thread, copied and pasted here:
Despite already having about 100 early 50's style piggyback cars, I have a few of these on order, and I hope I actually see them soon......
It will be my first piece of Rapido rolling stock. Despite my best efforts, I have yet to buy a loco or rolling stock from Rapido......
As for for the coupler issue talked about in the "other" thread?, (not sure why we needed two threads on what is basically the same car from the same OP?), I will say this -
I have never liked any brand of semi scale coupler and in my experiance they don't couple as smoothly as the original Kadee. So mine will get replaced with regular head Kadee couplers.
Again, assuming they show up? Why the pessimism? The cars I have ordered are undecorated. My mail order house of choice did optimisticly answer my email recently saying they expect them soon - we will see.