For what it's worth here, I mounted my foot pedal to the underside of the benchjust above my right knee. I place my foot on the floor and use my knee to operate it. I get better control that way, cuz my foot doesn't like the leaned back position, and it doesn't get tired this way.
Plus, I don't get the occasional heart attack scare from unintentionally planting my foot on the pedal and having a Dremel instantly go 0-25000 right there on the hook in front me! Dan
I often use a diamond disk, but it's about a full inch in diameter and has five large holes in the face to aid in cooling/heat dissipation.
I haven't managed to bust a disk yet. Maybe I'm not doing it right.
I'm going to jump on the cyber Monday special for the Dremel 4300-9/64. One of the reviewers was disappointed that the packet did not include a Dremel A550 shield attachment. Anyone use one these shields on their dremel?
Anyone tried coating those small discs with CA to help prevent shattering?
I have an older Dremel, left in a house that we bought many years ago. It works okay, but does not have variable speed.I bought another one (not a Dremel) that's a bit larger, with variable speed and a flexible shaft.If you're using cut-off discs, definitely wear eye protection...the slightest repositioning of the disc while making a cut can shatter the disc into shards of projectiles.
On the other hand, if you're careful when using a cut-off disc, you can wear it down to a size that can be very useful when you need to work in close quarters...
Wayne
Southgate 2The obvious bears repeating, WEAR GOGGLES!
I used to wear goggles, until a cutoff disk shattered and a piece hit me in the neck. Wear a button-down shirt, or a face shield.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I have a cordless Dremel Stylus and like it so much I bought a backup, figured the battery would fail at some point. been about 15 years now and still going strong.
Southgate 2I have a foot pedal speed control, to me that is a must also. It can run the tool far slower than the variable speed tools can run.
I have a variable speed pedal from an old Pfaff sewing machine that controls my tool very well.
For a while I had a cordless Dremel Ion piston grip tool that I liked a lot. Unfortunately it was built cheap and did not last.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I would agree with the statement on when you get your FIRST Dremel to make it a corded one. I have a 2500 series that I bought in the early 90s (IMS) when a local ag supply shop was bought out by a statewide ag supply company. I guess they had a "clean out the back room" sale. I ended up getting a full Dremel kit with accessories and case for $20! (I almost think retail new was probably around $80 or so. Mom also got my now late father a Dremel scroll saw for $25. I now have it in my garage/railroad room under my workbench.)
Later I did get a cordless one. I find that it works quite nicely for areas that I can't get the big one in. I mostly use it for cutting rail and other soft metals. I probably should have bought the more powerful one that was available but I was thinking cost at the time rather than power.
As to the grumble on discs breaking easily, my solution is to double them up. That seems to solve most of the problem. I just have to remember to put the discs down gently and to not drop other things on the discs. (DOn't ask me how many times I have done that to know.)
When you buy your Dremel as Kevin stated do not get a cordless, the more powerful corded tool you can afford the better off you will be. I would get a 4000 series with a good selection of bits/tips.Think Tim the Tool Man Taylor, more power, arg, arg.You will find more goodies to use the Dremel on than you can imagine. The keyless chuck will hold drill bits from ⅛” down to #80 and all the rotary accessories. I hate having to use collets! Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
IDRick I have not owned a dremel and am looking forward to getting one! ...
Unfathomable! You're gonna wonder how you lived without it.
I recently upgraded to the flexshaft. Nice at the bench, bulky up on the layout. The flexshaft gets pretty warm during extended runs. It inhibits top speed a bit, not usually a real factor in most uses.
The little grinding discs that come in the bulk pack containers are extremely fragile. I break far more than I use up. They can and do fragment at any speed. But they can cut thin gaps in the rails, or thin slots in modified screwheads, etc. The obvious bears repeating, WEAR GOGGLES!
The larger fibre reinforced ones are tougher, last longer, but if you drop the tool, they'll break too. They are thicker also.
The little chuck Mel posted is pretty much a must have.
The list of what you can do with a Dremel sounds like a Ronco commercial if you get a well appointed accessory kit.
I have a foot pedal speed control, to me that is a must also. It can run the tool far slower than the variable speed tools can run. Dan
7j43k What good is a right angle attachment for a Dremel? What do you use it for? Ed
What good is a right angle attachment for a Dremel? What do you use it for?
Ed
selector I got a Dremel-like tool with box of goodies years ago and always wished I had the real thing and the flexible cable. Now that I have the real deal, I use it any time I have to cut a slot in the rails if the rails are already in place. I used it for another non-MR related repair just the other day. So, yeah, I have put my flexible cable to good use...quite a few times.
I got a Dremel-like tool with box of goodies years ago and always wished I had the real thing and the flexible cable. Now that I have the real deal, I use it any time I have to cut a slot in the rails if the rails are already in place. I used it for another non-MR related repair just the other day. So, yeah, I have put my flexible cable to good use...quite a few times.
It sounds like its advantage when cutting slots in rails is that it's diameter is much less than the Dremel tool itself, and so you can make your cut "more vertical".
My Foredom handle is an inch in diameter, which is a good bit smaller than the Dremel tool, itself. My cutoff wheels are 15/16" diameter. For my tool, a 1 1/2" would be perfect. I see Dremel makes a 1 1/2" cutoff wheel. I just ordered some.
I have two Dremel tools, and they are complete opposites.
The first is the Dremel 4.8 volt Mighty Mite. This thing is weak, slow, and powerless. It is perfect for drilling holes in plastic. It does not have the speed or power to melt plastic. It is worthless for everything, except the one thing I do most.
My other Dremel is an absolute BEAST! The Dremel Advantage motor with the flex shaft attachment. This is the ultimate Dremel tool. It can grind the guts out of a solid resin casting without any problems at all.
This has been a great tool.
I have never needed a 90 degree angle head.
I bought a "real" flex shaft several years ago, a Foredom. I haven't used it yet. I got a slow-speed version, with the idea of using it for drilling holes in rolling stock for adding grab irons. Doesn't mean I WON'T use it. But it hasn't come up, yet.
For me the two most important Dremel accessories are the angle attachment and an adjustable chuck, 0-⅛”. I have a flexible attachment but haven’t use it in over 15 years.
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
I read a lot of discussions where the Dremel flex shaft attachment is recommended for model railroaders while others recommend the right angle attachment. Is it beneficial to buy both? The right angle is $19 and the flex shaft is $30.