Code 55 VS Code 80 Track

[Anonymous]

I am new to N scale modeling and cannot figure out which track is better. I know so far to go with Nickel-sliver, but I can't seem to find anywhere that says whether code 80 or code 55 is better. It seems like code 55 would be better on the scenic side since it is shorter, but code 80 might be better on the running side since it is taller...

I sure could use some experience help.

Thanks!

[DSchmitt]

Code 80 is more robust, and there are no issues with wheel flange depth. The flanges on older equipment and cheap equipment is often too deep for Atlas code 55. There are fewer flange depth problems with Micro Engineering code 55 than with the Atlas. Peco code 55 (which I use) is functionally code 80 so flange depth is not a problem. It is just cleverly designed to look smaller.

There are also minor issues connecting Atlas code 55 and Micro Engineering code 55 to code 80 if you mix the sizes. The rail heads have to line up. Peco code 55 will connect to code 80 using standard rail joiners with no modifications.

The main reason to use code 55 is appearance. I usually use Code 80 (Atlas, Peco) for main lines, and Peco code 55 for sidings, secondary lines and spurs. I have mixed Atlas 80, Peco 80, Peco 55, and Kato Unitrackon one layout.

With switches, of any brand, there may be problems to to differeing clearances flangeway depths and widths. No brand is really compatible with all N scale equipment. I prefer Peco switches over other brands.

[Anonymous]

Thank you!

Can I substitute Peco switches for the Atlas ones? I have found a layout that I like in one of the Atlas books and was hesitant to buy track other than what they listed.

It sounds like I should use a mixed bag from what I am reading between the lines.

Also is there a good source online ot order this stuff? I am just starting my research so I still have lots of digging to go yet.

I have built a couple of HO layouts in the past, but nothing elaborate. The one I am looking at will be small 3x6, but somewhat complex. It is a "Cookie-cutter" layout.

The layout recommends 1/2 in plywood, but I was hoping to go with polystyreen or something just to keep it lighter. Any comments on this too would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like I came to the right place to get some information. Thanks again!

[DSchmitt]

The geometry of the Peco is different from the Atlas, but unless things are really tight one brand of switch can be usually substituted for another if they are close to the same size size. The Peco large are approximately equilivant to a #8 and the mediums approximate #6's.

Some people don't like Peco because of it's "European" look. I'm not bothered by this, especially in ballasted sceniced settings. I like Peco switches because they are robust and have a spring built in to hold the points against the stock rails, so I can use them out of the box without switch machines or linkages. Peco is introducing "American" track in HO scale but not so far in N scale.


I have never ordered track on line. Here is the link to Peco track on the Brooklyn Locomotive Works site. I have ordered locos and cars from them.

http://www.blwnscale.com/Peco.htm

[Anonymous]

I have used a variety of insulated frog type turnouts, and I have found that the Peco nine inch radius works best for switching, when using a short wheelbase locomotive ( such as a Bachmann Davenport or an 0-6-0).

As long as you have an equal number of Peco turnouts on each side there should not be a problem. If not, just cut some flex track.

While you probably won't be able to creep across the frog without stalling, the speed required seems to be less than that needed for an Atlas turnout.
[8D]

[Anonymous]

I too have just returned to model railroading, and have found this site to be reasonable on prices...http://www.internettrains.com/ . Good luck and enjoy!

[slotracer]

How is code 55 for someone who is starting up from scratch....ie: no pie cutter wheel equipment, all Microtrains and modern produced kato and Atlas engines ?

The look of the code 80 track in N is a big turn off for me.

[fwheadon]

While not a specific response to the code 80 or code 55 debate, I would suggest that a visit to your local hobby shops will provide many benefits. This is especially the case for someone starting out as the number of questions that will crop up will be great and a good (and I cannot stress the "good" part of this enough) shop will have someone who knows what is going on. This person(of thee persons) can become a mentor and will guide you through or even better around the many pitfalls that are out there for a newcomer. By shopping there, you can see the product and that is a major part of buying anything in this great hobby. The final choices you make will be far more satisfactory to you after seeing the product, than buying somehting that might be a pig in the poke in real life after reasdibng/seeing some promotional material. Enjoy the World's Greatest Hobby.

[Anonymous]

I have done a layout or two in N scale. Living in Alaska is a challenge because we have very few hobby stores and they deal more with R/C models than with trains. So I do a lot of ordering over the internet. The best place I have found for N scale supplies including the shipping price is TexNrails (www.texnrails.com). I have also purchased from Brooklyn Locomotive Works (www.blwnscale.com) and N Scale Supply (nscalesupply.com). I have worked with both Atlas track and Peco track. I prefer the Peco as it seems tighter and I have less problems with curve and switch derailments.

The Peco switches are easier to make look real than code 80 Atlas switches. However that said I have started working with more Atlas code 55 using it in yards and sidings.

[slotracer]

Like I said many times before, the kids are getting older and while they like the slotcar racing, in a couple years they will be too busy with other stuff. The wife misses all the old small towns and architecture we used to live arounf in upstate NY and has hinted at interest at doing scenry and structures with the old man one day. We live in a rural location, far from most of the club tracks for the slot car club and making races on week nights is getting to be more of a hassle, we are doing more home and mountain related things. Building a layout or two with the wife in a few years may well happen, but wanted to dink around with some N for now and maybe a garden railway. If we do N I want it to look realistic so code 55 is the only way I'd consider going.

We have Caboose hobbies and N scale supply as well as Mizell right here in town so we are pretty well off.

We got teh kids an N set which has been added to over teh years, Kato Unitrack stuff, but good engines and cars. I'm too far to particiapte in the N club at teh Forney museum but would like to visit it and any other really nice layouts in the area, when I hear of any open houses.

We come from back east so if we do N we might do Erie Lackawanna circa early seventies as if teh EL chose the DL&W over Dansville Hill over teh old Erie route and model Linwood NY to Cambell NY with Buffalo at one end and staging on teh other, Groveland yard mid route to base teh locals from. I did complete drawings of teh old DL&W waterfront terminal in Buffalo as a college project before it was demolished (One of the few RR things I saved during my Hiatus) so that will be a cornerstone in teh Buffalo scene. The room for this is 20x20 so we have a good place for a nice n layout.

We are looking at a room over teh garage after the kids head to college, and want to satisfy the scratchbuilding craze in me (Us?) so an S scale brance maybe based on PRR or NYC Finger lakes theme might happen too.