I've used a razor saw and a hacksaw to cut rail, but I prefer a cut-off disc on a flexible shaft from a motor tool. If you have Kadee's clip-on coupler gauge, it can help prevent the rails from being yanked from their moorings if the cutting action is a little too aggressive, especially if you can hold the gauge in-place with your free hand.
Wayne
LastspikemikeIt seems likely only the one side of the cut is clean rather than both sides.
I have now had the chance to review the patent
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/ca/1d/2c/3ce2933bcfc4b1/US3774301.pdf
It is of considerable antiquity (early '70s) and interestingly had expired before the current trademark for Micro-Shear™ was filed for (March 1994, granted 1995).
As an initial note, my take on the principle is that some of the company claims for it -- that it somehow greatly decreases the effort to cut material, for instance -- aren't really supported by the design. As the cutting edges advance through most of the work, they would act no differently on the metal than ordinary flush-cutting edges do, except at a slight oblique angle to the flush face plane of the tool. Only in the last couple of thou at most would the 'shearing action' as described become notable (and it would result in some peculiar ductile behavior in that very small region in the center of the cut). The interesting question is whether the 'popped' zone where there is essentially final tension failure if the cross-section of the 'nub' in a typical flush-cutting design has better characteristics when it is oblique...
On the other hand, the oblique force buildup might well have something to do with out-of-plane or rotational fatigue in the jaws, and the reported 'short lifetime' of many of these tools since the Micro-Shear™ design was adopted linewide...
The patent calls for initial offset to be indeed in the range of .001", basically just enough to ensure that the high blade runs up on the bevel of the other. It then shows a surprising degree of ride-up during subsequent action, even if the drawings are not to proportional scale.
I am a bit uncomfortable with the 'self-sharpening' action. I was taught never to sharpen the 'flat' side of chisels or flush cutters, just the opposite of the action claimed at '42a' of the Brown '301 patent, and I would wonder if the 'effective magic wear rate' would be less than a tendency to roll up the engaging edge of the high blade, as formed. Of course the sharpening action ought to be comparatively slight, possibly less than the surface asperity of the cut surface... a little research with a metallurgical scope would quickly establish this one way or t'other.
What this does immediately suggest, tbough, is improving the tool by superfinishing and perhaps selectively coating the bevel of the lower blade. This might easily be done with progressive 3M lapping film on glass, or during manufacturing just before or after final edge hardening. Of course this would be easy and comparatively cheap to do when the tools are made, but many improvements might be easy and inexpensive even in a 'home shop'. This might make an interesting MR article or perhaps clinic topic...
For tool manufacturers, apart from a boost in potential 'science-based marketing' and a whole new prospective line of improved products, this might solve a considerable amount of stamped-jaw breakage, especially in tools that have acquired nicks or other dulling of blades in their cutting zone
I don't intend to file an improvement to '301 and then make competing pliers using that, nor do I plan to make or market 'accurized' cutters the way Ball sold improved railroad watches. But I don't mind disclosing so no one else tries to patent the logical improvements first and try the usual suits against "infringers"
Personally I still prefer the thin-kerf saw, or thin diamond cutoff wheel in hand piece.
Has anyone tried those #691 cutters when making joints? If the slight shearing action works as noted, that might remove both a need to dress joints and to make clean gaps to be epoxy insulated...
Overmod
I disagree with about 99% of spikes posts but here is what that overlapping is about
https://xuron.com/blog/2021/01/micro-shear-flush-cutters-faq/
LastspikemikeI hadn't realized that Xuron makes the two styles depending on whether you cut across the rail horizontally or vertically from the top.
Do you have a link to this 'slightly overlapping blade' thing -- I can't quite figure out how overlapping the edges could give a better 'flush' cut.
Authoritative person gives beginner's guide to rail-nipping with these:
https://xuron.com/blog/2019/07/model-railroad-track-cutting/
ATLANTIC CENTRALYawn.........
Yep, another ruined thread.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Lastspikemike PC101 ATLANTIC CENTRAL Lastspikemike Claiming that full sized side cutters are a better tool than Xuron rail cutters for cutting nickel silver rail is an insupportable claim. To claim they are the best tool for this job is just a ridiculous claim and may mislead others. Speaking from my experiance selling MATCO PROFESSIONAL HAND TOOLS for seven years, the tool Kevin described and pictured are not "side cutters". They are a "full sized" version of what the Xuron cutter is - a "flush cutter". Sheldon Yep, see, no bevel on the jaws. Even if the jaws are too thick/large, that is nothing a belt sander can not ajust for a better view of the cut. "no bevel on the jaws". They have to or they won't cut anything. They are just offset bevel, one side of the blade only. You need a small tool to cut Nickel silver rail. The Xuron could be made smaller for most of us but there are smaller nippers already available, such as those used in the electronics industry for clipping surface mount component wires. I have a few of those which I use for sprue cutters. One particularly high quality cutter of this type is handier than the Xuron for tight spots and easily cuts Nickel silver.
PC101 ATLANTIC CENTRAL Lastspikemike Claiming that full sized side cutters are a better tool than Xuron rail cutters for cutting nickel silver rail is an insupportable claim. To claim they are the best tool for this job is just a ridiculous claim and may mislead others. Speaking from my experiance selling MATCO PROFESSIONAL HAND TOOLS for seven years, the tool Kevin described and pictured are not "side cutters". They are a "full sized" version of what the Xuron cutter is - a "flush cutter". Sheldon Yep, see, no bevel on the jaws. Even if the jaws are too thick/large, that is nothing a belt sander can not ajust for a better view of the cut.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Lastspikemike Claiming that full sized side cutters are a better tool than Xuron rail cutters for cutting nickel silver rail is an insupportable claim. To claim they are the best tool for this job is just a ridiculous claim and may mislead others. Speaking from my experiance selling MATCO PROFESSIONAL HAND TOOLS for seven years, the tool Kevin described and pictured are not "side cutters". They are a "full sized" version of what the Xuron cutter is - a "flush cutter". Sheldon
Lastspikemike Claiming that full sized side cutters are a better tool than Xuron rail cutters for cutting nickel silver rail is an insupportable claim. To claim they are the best tool for this job is just a ridiculous claim and may mislead others.
Claiming that full sized side cutters are a better tool than Xuron rail cutters for cutting nickel silver rail is an insupportable claim.
To claim they are the best tool for this job is just a ridiculous claim and may mislead others.
Speaking from my experiance selling MATCO PROFESSIONAL HAND TOOLS for seven years, the tool Kevin described and pictured are not "side cutters".
They are a "full sized" version of what the Xuron cutter is - a "flush cutter".
Sheldon
Yep, see, no bevel on the jaws.
Even if the jaws are too thick/large, that is nothing a belt sander can not ajust for a better view of the cut.
"no bevel on the jaws". They have to or they won't cut anything. They are just offset bevel, one side of the blade only.
You need a small tool to cut Nickel silver rail. The Xuron could be made smaller for most of us but there are smaller nippers already available, such as those used in the electronics industry for clipping surface mount component wires. I have a few of those which I use for sprue cutters. One particularly high quality cutter of this type is handier than the Xuron for tight spots and easily cuts Nickel silver.
Yawn.........
EDIT: Yep, I SEE no bevel on the jaws IN THE ABOVE PICTURE.
OvermodThe Xuron tool is 'better' than a typical high-grade flush-cutting plier because its nose profile is thinner, allowing easier sighting when cutting rail. On the other hand that predisposes broken jaws, with higher departure velocity of the busted piece, if the tool is overloaded. That is NOT to say that the Xuron tool isn't beautifully made or unfit to purpose -- just that I don't like using it for particular reasons.
If the track end is long enough you can just hold it with your opposite hand and - presto! - no careening or ricocheting. If the nipped end is too short to hold then dampen the trajectory with a wadded up piece of kleenex. Pretty simple solutions for both issues, IMO.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The very best single item for cutting scale rail, in my opinion, is the jeweler's coping saw with filamental blades. This was what I saw, and have since accepted in practice, from watching Tim Warris' videos on his handlaidtrack site. My other go-to is a rather large perforated, diamond-studded cut-off disk. I think it came with a Canadian Tire model of a Dremel, but in their Mastercraft brand. This thing is just a bit thicker than three sheets of printer paper, and is about a full inch in diameter. It does require care with the opposite rail, as you might imagine. Even so, all my other disks do also require attention, will power, and a steady and firm hand to get a thin kerf cut. When the thing travels, or when you bounce it inadvertently, you do cause yourself all sorts of grief, not to mention a horribly angled and wide gap in the rails. And that's if the side of the blade doesn't snag the rail and lift about four inches right out of the spikeheads.
I have the complete set of Xuron track tools and they are very good!!! Several years ago I couldn’t locate my Xuron cutters and used a pair of Harbor Freight flush cutters to cut an Atlas code 83 rail, it left the rail in perfect condition and looked as nice as if I had used my Xuron cutters.Since then I have used the HF cutters, they don’t last as long as a pair of higher price cutters so I buy a new pair every year or so. I have a pair of HF cutters stashed everywhere, very easy to find a pair. https://www.harborfreight.com/micro-flush-cutter-90708.html?_br_psugg_q=flush+cut+pliersMel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
LastspikemikeA skilled worker always uses the correct tool for the job. This is not the correct tool to cut HO scale model railroad rails.
To be honest, I have never used either the Xuron tool or a flush-cutting plier for rail cutting past my initial testing. In part this is because I don't like the sound and impact feeling, or the speed that small cut-off ends depart at, or the vestigial rib that still needs filing when I do it; in part it's because I think a solution that also doesn't allow low-kerf gapping or easy cutting for section removal is a false economy. That the tool edges suffer greatly if used to flush-cut anything but track, many years now since industrial hard-edge materials and coatings make that obsolescent at best, is another disincentive.
The Xuron tool is 'better' than a typical high-grade flush-cutting plier because its nose profile is thinner, allowing easier sighting when cutting rail. On the other hand that predisposes broken jaws, with higher departure velocity of the busted piece, if the tool is overloaded. That is NOT to say that the Xuron tool isn't beautifully made or unfit to purpose -- just that I don't like using it for particular reasons.
I started out with miter-assisted cutting with a thin-kerf saw, and some variant of that is still what I consider the skilled person's correct way to cut rail. For in situ cutting and gapping, I think some version of thin-kerf diamond disc saw is the skilled worker's gold standard. I can get about 180 of these, with mandrels, for the current price of a Xuron 'improved' plier, and they are useful for many other things as well.
1. Atlas itself makes a relatively inexpensive track saw
2. I stopped using the standard Dremel cutting discs years ago, and now use the reinforced discs. They last longer, cut better and do not shatter.
3. If you get and use the Xuron tool, I suggest marking the handle that it is to be used for track and/or soft wire only . The Xuron tools all look alike to me
Dave Nelson
Heartland Division CB&Q Eye protection is a must. I had a blade break off of a Xuron rail cutter which flew across the train room.
Eye protection is a must.
I had a blade break off of a Xuron rail cutter which flew across the train room.
I have had cut rail fly across the layout when trimming rail on the layout. If I am holding flex track in my hand, I hold the end of the rail being cut so that it doesn't go flying.
Rich
Alton Junction
Eye protection is a must. Last Spike Mike mentioned it when talking about a cutting disk in a Dremel motor tool. Protect eyes when using other tools too.
I had a blade break off of a Xuron rail cutter which flew across the train room. I would not have wanted it to hit one of my eyes.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
I have so much trouble with those brittle Dremel wheels -- the slightest twist or angle against the kerf will shatter them explosively -- that I have gone entirely over to those cheap eBay diamond-saw discs instead. These have a somewhat wider kerf and may leave a bit more pronounced abrasion marks behind, but I'd at least consider them as an option.
At one time I used a thin-kerf backsaw with roller guides; these do not have the slip and progressive-wear issues that regular miter boxes do, and it is in my opinion easier to use.
We have had discussions in the past about adapting a mini 'chop saw' with thin-kerf blade to be used to keep a rotary blade truly square with a rail to be cut, both horizontally and vertically. To do this with a regular Dremel can be difficult unless a fairly large-diameter blade is used -- a bonded thin-kerf cutoff wheel of that diameter might be over the speed of sound at its edge with predictable consequences.
The best tool to cut flex track is an industrial true-flush cutting plier.
If you spend the money and get a real professional quality plier, it will last your lifetime, just keep it away from your wife and kids.
I've been using the Xuron cutters for years, and every once in a while I will use a cut-off wheel in my Dremel. I went to a train show a couple of weeks ago and wound up with a metal diamond encrusted cut-off wheel that makes a very fine kerf. You just need to hang on tight and pay attention though.
Joe
MisterBeasley Another vote for the Xuron Rail Cutters.
Another vote for the Xuron Rail Cutters.
I've used the Xuron and the Dremel successfully for decades. Some may disagree, but I always followed the cuts with a swipe of a flat needle file.
One thing to keep in mind....using the Dremel with the cut-off disc works extremely well - but is potentially very dangerous. It can slip/jump off the rail and cut you, or the disc can shatter and throw bits with pretty good force. With that in mind, always wear safety glasses and don't let yourself get distracted.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Thanks for all the replies guys.
I'll look around to see where I can get an Xuron 2175B Track Cutter.
Too slow to post.
I use the MisterBeasley and tstage method and also have used a fine tooth saw and a plastic block with grooves to match the rail gauge to hold the rail down when making the cut with the saw.
I have three #2175, one is engraved 1/10/09 and one #2175B. Going by XURON's website, the #2175B must have a different/better cutting jaw pattern for rail then the #2175. (both the #2175 and the 2175B show a ''Shearing action'' jaws) Just a better mouse trap I suppose. On testing (25 cuts each with all four tools) both the #2175 and the #2175B on HO c100 brass and NS, c83 NS, cutters making the cut from top of rail to bottom, the end of rail cut pattern when looking under the scope looks the same.
You want the Xuron 2175B Track Cutter with the orange handle (above photo). They're ~$15 and well-worth the investment and having on-hand. Don't use them for anything else. Finish off the cut ends with a small flat file.
Another vote for the Xuron Rail Cutters. A cheap flat file will clean up the burrs on the ends and allow rail joiners to slide on easily.
Make sure to use the flat side for the face you plan to use.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I use Xuron Track Cutters. I have no access to pictures, but if you Google them you should see photos.
David
To the world you are someone. To someone you are the world
I cannot afford the luxury of a negative thought
Either a Xuron Rail Cutter, or a Dremel with a cut-off disc.
Regular side cutters will distort the rail ends.
The Xuron Rail Cutters are true "Flush-cutting" pliers, with the smooth flat side of the tool leaving a very smooth flat straight edge that needs minimal filing to dress.
Dremel with a cut-off disc will make a purely straight cut, with even less filing needed to dress the rail end. (If any at all.)
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Hello
I have a busted Atlas Straight Flex Track #Code 4260104. One end is missing a section of sleepers and the rail is cracked/badly kinked. The rest of the track is fine. It happened when my room was getting rearranged. Rather than throw the track away, I decided to just cut off the broken section, however I'm not sure what to use. Does anyone know the type of plyers to use with this track? If so please provide the tool name and a picture.
Thank you