Or Weldbond, one of Canada's very finest achievements. I standardized on that one product for most of my compatible glue needs for many years after I first found it in our local hardware stores -- it does everything Elmer's does and a great deal more, none of them badly.
richhotrainOr Titebond Wood Glue.
Yes, Titebond will be what I use now. I rarely see Elmer's wood glue any longer. Titebond was used a lot for my house projects and seems to be just as good a product.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 up831 Speaking of,... whatever happened to the old amber Ambroid cement? That was the standard for wood models. I never liked Ambroid on wooden models. I always found Elmer's Wood Glue worked fine. -Kevin
up831 Speaking of,... whatever happened to the old amber Ambroid cement? That was the standard for wood models.
I never liked Ambroid on wooden models. I always found Elmer's Wood Glue worked fine.
Rich
Alton Junction
up831Speaking of,... whatever happened to the old amber Ambroid cement? That was the standard for wood models.
Thanks for the replies. Looks like the "non-toxic" is the obvious difference but how it works is what is important to me. Not ready to use it just yet, but will soon.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I normally use the Liquid Cement for Plastics in the glass jar with red label and the brush in the cap for most modeling applications. I find the red label Liquid Cement for Plastic Models in the black plastic bottle to be useful when I need a slower bond such as when you need to apply the glue prior to positioning the parts together. It is definitely a thicker viscosity than the stuff in the glass jar. The stuff in the black bottle is even thick enough to create small fillets along the glue joint. Both create strong bonds.
Hornblower
In my experience, if it's non-toxic, safe for the environment, green approved or whatever .... it doesn't work as well.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I tried a tube blue label Testors once and hated it. It didn't hold as well and had far more strings or whatever those things are called than the red label. I'm not overly enthralled with red label either, but it does work. My favorite was the old Revell type S. That worked really well. They discontinued it a long time ago.
I haven't used Testors liquid brush on cement since the early 60s. That needed to be well ventilated, but we didn't know that then. I recently purchased a bottle of Ambroid liquid cement, but have yet to try it.
Speaking of,... whatever happened to the old amber Ambroid cement? That was the standard for wood models.
Jim (with a nod to Mies Van Der Rohe)
Testors also has a blue tube glue, similar to the orange. In that tube, the glue is labled as non-toxic version. Its terrible.
Kind of like MEK Substitute.
- Douglas
I use the red label product. Testors says that it is a fast drying liquid cement used for polystyrene and ABS plastic - bonds plastic by dissolving and cementing.
Testors says that the blue label is a Non-Toxic Liquid Cement for Plastics. Use for polystyrene and ABS plastic.
The only differences that I can see is that the blue label is listed as "non-toxic", and the red label is listed as fast drying.
Mobilman... I do not know the answer to your question, but I have a similar question that I want to ask.
I use Loctite brand Gel Control super glue for model building that I buy at Walmart. They sell this is the paint section and the craft section of the Walmart I go to.
The Loctite glue in the paint section has a blue label. The Loctite glue in the craft section has a black label, and is usually about 25 cents less expensive.
I have also read the impossible small print on these labels, and they are word-for-word identical to one another.
In use, they both seem the same.
Does anyone know if there is a difference in these two glues?
For the previous 30 years or so I've used Testor's plastic cement in the black triangular container. Yesterday I was at Hobby Lobby and picked up a container as my existing one was about out.
At the store, it hit me that there were two different versions - one with a red label and one with a blue label. Reading the impossible small print, I couldn't figure out the difference and couldn't recall what I had at home.
So I bought the blue label, got home and found I had been using the red label.
My question is, what is the difference and does it matter for model building effectiveness?
Thanks all!