kasskabooseTrick is persuading wife we need a label maker for eh, kid crafts and her school supplies. Yes!
I bought lots of train stuff through the years that I brought in as "school supplies" for the girls.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
There are plenty of interesting ideas for the control panel. I prefer to keep things simple and don't have one. There are only two DPDT toggles on the DCC layout to isolate sections of the track. It works for me.
The toggle switches themselves poke out of the masonite fascia. I'll prob make labels for them whenever. Trick is persuading wife we need a label maker for eh, kid crafts and her school supplies. Yes!
I'm a little late to the party but for mine I have a vertically mounted piece of plywood I think it's 1/2" or so. (It was a scrap piece I was given so I didn't ask questions on thickness. The piece looked like it would work so I asked and I was given it.) It is vertical as I didn't have much room in the original location where the layout was first started. (My bedroom in my final apartment. I bought a house with a good size garage that the layout fit into.) The switches are Atlas connectors and control boxes. Twenty-four DC power blocks, 25 remote turnouts, one switch for WS lights and one for crossing lights. The power blocks and turnout controls have IDs above them showing which area they control.
Hello All,
For my control panel, I used "Luan" plywood.
It is "finished" on both sides and 5mm thick.
My local Lowe's sells these in half-sheets (4'x4').
I used quarter-round wood trim, with the flat edge facing the inside of the panel. This added a finished look and the bottom edge can hold uncoupling tools.
Then I painted it Semi-Flat Black (Krylon #1613).
Because of its thickness, I was able to use a stepped drill bit for the holes for the round toggle switches.
I also mounted the Atlas Switch Control Boxes on the surface with small wood screws. There is enough material for the screws to bite.
For the "track diagram" I used a product called Tape N Tell.
This tape is used to color-code surgical tools. It is 1/8-inch wide and comes in 8 colors; Yellow, Red, Black, White, Green, Brown Blue, and Orange.
It's available in single rolls or an 8 pack with all the colors.
These colors also match the NMRA color standards of decoder wires.
I used white to make the track diagram. You could also use the other colors, as others have done, to differentiate blocks.
The other colors I used to code the wires to my turnouts. These colors can be combined to produce hundreds of unique color codes depending on how many colors you use- -think the color banding of resistors.
As an old crew chief used to say, "You don't have to know how to read to tell the color."
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Hi,
Lots of good replies and examples and I thought I would add......
Over the years I've used plastic, wood, and masonite. The easiest and best result came from the masonite and if I were to build another that is what I would use. Plastic would be my next choice, but wood would not be considered.
The use of metal is interesting, but I avoided it as the propensity of a short was too great - at least the way I do things. Not saying it can't work, just saying "not for me".
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Hi Guys,
Just getting back to the forum after a few days. Thanks for these replies. I will go through them and probably have some questions. There are some really nice looking panels here.
-mdf
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
No control panel needed: my layout is an around-the-room type, so I can follow the train using a tethered throttle with multiple plug-in points throughout the room. If there are switches or other controls needed, they're mounted on the layout's fascia, near to whatever feature they might control....
My DC powered layout is specifically designed for use by a single operator running only one train at a time.
Wayne
Hi Matt,
I had my control panels printed on 1/8" acrylic by a sign making company. I used 3rd PlanIt to create the drawings, scanned them and then sent the files to the printing company. The lines are not as sharp as I would like, but I think that is my fault. I couldn't figure out how to sent the files straight from my computer. I'll have to figure that out.
Here is what the printed panel looks like. The various coloured circles are will the holes will be drilled to accomodate the toggle switches and LEDs:
I was able to fit four panels roughly 7" x 22" on one sheet.
This is definitely not the cheapest way to make control panels. If you want to go this route make sure that your plan is absolutely set in stone before ordering. I ordered my panels and then a couple of months later I changed the plan. My initial investment was a total waste. The next set will be ordered only after all the track is installed and working.
The frames will be made out of 1x1 poplar and will fold forward to allow access to the wiring.
Cheers!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I make my control panel surfaces using MS Office Powerpoint, and print them in color. Then I have them laminated.
In the past, I have used old street signs (sheet alluminum) as the backing plate. Unfortunately, I no longer have a source for retired street signs.
On my layout segment I tried plexiglass, but that did not stand up to stress testing, so then I went with hardboard (masonite) instead.
I was not happy with the hardboard. It was fuzzy to work with, and drilling the anti-rotation holes for the toggle collars was not easy.
I am going back to using alluminum for my future control panels. I found a reasonably priced source for 1/8" thick alluminum sheets.
For panels of 5 inches by 5 inches and smaller, I think the Genesis ceiling tiles Ed introduced me to will work fine.
I develop the track diagrams using an older version of Atlas Right Track, available as freeware, and print them on letter size, ink jet printer sticker paper from office supply houses.
For the panel structure, I use inexpensive document frames from Wal-Mart. I attach the stick-on track diagram to the frame's paperboard back-board and trim it down as needed with a hobby knife; then cut sheet acrylic plastic from home center stores, using the scribe-and-break method to get usable sizes which are then cut to size on my mitre saw.
Next, the frame members are cut down, if needed, on the mitre saw and the panel is assembled to fit. Once everything checks out, I use a #11 blade to drill a pilot dimple in the acrylic for the toggle locations, then remove the plastic and enlarge the holes with suitable drill bits. After re-assembling, the holes in the acrylic serve as a template to cut holes through the diagram and back board with a new blade, then install the toggle switches. The cost, excluding the electrical components, is less than a few dollars per panel.
Jim
I use 1/8" masonite, drill my holes for the rotary switches (to control signals) and push buttons which control turnouts.
Neal
I sandwich a track diagram between two sheets of Lexan. I think the Lexan is 1/16, but it might be 1/8 (been awhile since I built a panel).
The frame is scrap 2X8 lumber I cut off at an angle, mitred the corners, and cut a groove for the panel to fit. I assembled the front and sides, painted the frame, then inserted the panel and attached the back.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Look for a fallen road sign ;-)
For my main panel w/DPDT turnout switches, I used a custom ordered piece of 5/64" aluminum sheet, per a January 2012 MR article. Steps were to mark the diagram, drill the holes for DPDTs and LEDs, prime and paint white, use pinstripe tape to mask the diagram, paint black, remove pinstripe tape (showing the white diagram). Then added dry transfer lettering and a coat of satin clear coat.
IMG_4565 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
For my smaller lighting panel, I bought a piece of clear lucite(?) or plexiglas(??) at Home Depot, cut to size, primed, drilled holes, painted black, added lettering and clear coated.
Uncouplers6 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
More than one way to skin the cat.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
My control panel has a wooden frame with aluminum panels with a computer printout of my layout covered with Plexiglas. The panels fold down for easy access using a piano hinge. All the wires to the panel have DB connectors allowing me to remove it easily and work on it at my workbench.
Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a 4x8 foot sheet of quarter-inch masonite with a white plastic coating on one face, normally called shower liner or bathtub liner. It costs about ten bucks. It's easy to cut to size. I use 1x2 pine to frame it after cutting a notch into the wood framing with a router.
I mark a layout schematic with pencil and drill holes. I use black automobile pin-striping tape to enhance the layout schematic. The black tape on the white background is easy to see, even at night.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Me again.
I'm running buses out to what will be my blocks, and I'm thinking ahead to how I will mount the ten DPDT switches in a way that I can know which block I'm throwing and also keep things neat. I think my father used something that was very much like pegboard, but didn't have the holes. He painted it black, then drew a sort of schematic that resembled the layout, or at least its various blocks. The track lines were drawn or rather painted in a very neon orange. He mounted the switches not in a row, but rather each switch in its own section of the diagram on the panel. I also think he rigged up lights so that when a block was on it had a light on. But anyway, for now I'd just like to know what some of you are using to mount your controls on.
Thanks!
-Matt