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Painting Locomotive Cast Metal Chassis

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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Southington, CT
  • 106 posts
Painting Locomotive Cast Metal Chassis
Posted by mthobbies on Monday, June 21, 2021 2:31 PM

Hi everyone. I'm working on doing a custom paint job on an old HO scale Atlas S2 made in Austria. I stripped the paint off the body shell and cast metal chassis with 91% rubbing alcohol which worked well.

But my question is, what is the best way to primer and paint the cast metal chassis? I feel like ordinary paint will just scratch and chip off. I am going to airbrush the plastic shell with either Testors or Model Master gloss black enamel. (Anyone have other suggestions?) How should I primer the chassis so the final coat doesn't chip off easily? I was thinking of scuffing up the smooth metal with fine-grit sandpaper or emery cloth but there are a lot of nooks and crannies. Let me know!

 

Matt

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,642 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Monday, June 21, 2021 3:25 PM

Matt,

If you are not hesitant about using solvent based paints, I suggest Scale Coat II. The adhesion and gloss level are both excellent. Scale Coat II's primer performs well in leveling a surface. 

For the metal chassis, Scale Coat1 works very well on metal surfaces without primer.

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Southington, CT
  • 106 posts
Posted by mthobbies on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 8:37 AM

AntonioFP45

Matt,

If you are not hesitant about using solvent based paints, I suggest Scale Coat II. The adhesion and gloss level are both excellent. Scale Coat II's primer performs well in leveling a surface. 

For the metal chassis, Scale Coat1 works very well on metal surfaces without primer.

 

What thinner do you use with Scalecoat? Is regular laquer thinner okay? And do you think I need a primer first? My final coat is black. Thanks!

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Franconia, NH
  • 3,130 posts
Posted by dstarr on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 9:16 AM

The trick in painting metal of any kind, brass, zamac, steel, what ever is to get the paint to stick.  Metal is smooth and glossy offering little tooth for the paint to bond to, and is often oily or greasy.  Surface preparation is important.  Start with a good wash in hot soapy water.  Rinse really well.  Then soak the metal in a mild acid, (supermarket vinegar works for me) for a hour or so, or until you can see a change in the surface color.  Rinse well and dry thoroughly, over night at least.  Don't touch the metal with your bare hands, your fingerprints prevent the paint from sticking. Then I use either Krylon or Rustoleum auto primer in a rattle can.  The auto primers are marketed to real car mechanics who need them to stick to not-so-clean and somewhat greasy auto parts.  As a result of competition, the auto primers have the best stick-to-metal chemistry known to man.  They come in three colors, dark gray to go under dark colors, light gray to go under light colors and red to go under red.  Once you have a good prime coat on and dry, you can use any kind of paint on top of it.  

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 11:47 AM

I agree that primer is a good starting point.  I use Alclad II airbrush-ready Grey Primer & Microfiller.

Scalecoat I can be thinned with lacquer thinner, but I've found that using Scalecoat's own thinner seems to give a more resilient finish.

Using lacquer thinner gives a faster drying time, while the Scalecoat thinner needs a somewhat longer time.

Wayne

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 2,775 posts
Posted by snjroy on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 12:02 PM

I don't pay special attention to frames because I'm pretty much the only one that sees them, so I often paint them with a brush. Some will get the spray if the loco is up to that. I work on steam, often very old steam, so I usually work on the powertrain first before painting it, and I don't remove the powertrain for painting. I obviously lubricate when ALL is done, not before.

In all cases, I do follow the steps mentioned by others (clean, prime, paint). I use Vallejo primer, and cover with a good acrylic paint. Floquil used to sell the best primer.... I usually paint black or grimy black. I don't worry about scratches - if they ever happen, I will do touch ups with... a brush.

Simon

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Southington, CT
  • 106 posts
Posted by mthobbies on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 1:10 PM

snjroy

I don't pay special attention to frames because I'm pretty much the only one that sees them, so I often paint them with a brush.

Simon, the frame is exposed on my S2 diesel. 

The yellow running board is the metal chassis. This is prior to stripping the old paint.

The chassis is visible

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 1:18 PM

If adhesion to smooth metal is an issue, I consider using a self-etching primer.

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 2,775 posts
Posted by snjroy on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 3:15 PM

mthobbies

 

 
snjroy

I don't pay special attention to frames because I'm pretty much the only one that sees them, so I often paint them with a brush.

 

 

Simon, the frame is exposed on my S2 diesel. 

The yellow running board is the metal chassis. This is prior to stripping the old paint.

The chassis is visible

 

Ah, as usual, I was not paying attention. I would proceed like I do for metal boilers on a steam engine: Strip (unless the original paint looks Ok), clean with alcohol, prime and airbrush. Did that on an old Fleishmann Baldwin switcher about 8 years ago. All metal, no chipping so far...

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: NW Pa Snow-belt.
  • 2,216 posts
Posted by ricktrains4824 on Tuesday, June 22, 2021 6:44 PM

Auto primer from a rattle can.

Then cover with whatever color/paint needed.

Ricky W.

HO scale Proto-freelancer.

My Railroad rules:

1: It's my railroad, my rules.

2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.

3: Any objections, consult above rules.

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