I know exactly what you mean Mr Beasley I do believe in getting as far as I can with older cars or those I can get my hands on cheaply and seeing where i can get to with them and I would much rather a detailed one of those than a dead-eyed money pit. I recently did an ATSF baggage lounge combo and thoroughly enjoyed the process. It was sort of a dry run on a 2nd hand $25 car before I plunged in on my 1948 Century lounge. There's a bar area as well as a lounge and looking in to the bar when the lights are on make me picture an evening there. I don't know, I move in and out of what is of interest to me in the hobby and this is certainly what is in pole position at the moment.
Although if I am honest looking at the women in Mel's lounge cars I would definately prefer to be there
Mr. B after having both eyes done two years ago I can see the passengers in my cars. My twice around mainline is just under a foot from the edge of my layout so I can get close up and with evening layout lighting the interiors look great.So anyone with average eyesight can do wonders with interiors, even with the tiny windows they look very good.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I'm not Mel-class at only 74, but I populated a few Rivarossi coaches, more empty seats than full. I used unpainted sitting figures, Model Power as I recall, and hand painted them so they all looked different. With lights in the cars, they looked great cruising through a grade crossing.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
TheFlyingScotsman I've always loved the animated nature of the interiors of your cars Mel.. I'd like to have a night in that lounge. Oh and my efforts are never going to win any awards I can tell you that right now!
I've always loved the animated nature of the interiors of your cars Mel..
I'd like to have a night in that lounge.
Oh and my efforts are never going to win any awards I can tell you that right now!
Thanks for the good words. And hey if shaky hands Mel can do it anyone can.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I’m not into brass passenger cars but I am into building interiors. I know that it’s very hard to see into an HO passenger car especially when it’s moving and at a distance but, it gives me a lot of satisfaction that I built them with the tiny people populating each car.I do Athearn 72’ cars because longer cars don’t look right on my small layout and they are easy to kitbash.
Close up not moving the interiors do show up pretty good.To date I have populated 11 Athearn Streamlined cars and 12 Athearn Heavyweight cars.Even at a distance you can tell they have full interiors.My 13th kitbash Heavyweight car (lounge car above) currently in progress on my workbench. At almost 84 years old I just love doing interiors.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
If you want a double row of seats on each side, you can cut longitudinally or fabricate seats on a strip or L channel, and then drill for pins or wire as cross-alignment. Glue one row tight to the outside and sill, let the adhesive set thoroughly, then glue the 'other' row to the first one. I suspect if you're using Mel-world people you could pre-attach them in such a way that they 'clear' as the row goes in.
Dave,
I do agree with that, aside from a few things like the Lookout Lounge on the '48 Century the interiors are buried in the cars and with my middle aged eye-sight as good as invisible. Oh and my efforts are never going to win any awards I can tell you that right now!
I didn't know that about the LIRR. That's an interesting way of doing things.
Unless this is going to be a contest car, I guess I'd just point out how little you see of the interior of a prototype passenger car even when you are close to it -- whether it is going by in a fast moving train, or sitting still at a depot platform. Day or night, and whether you are standing at window level or looking down from above. And that is when you are far closer to the car in terms of feet than you are likely to be as an operator or visitor to a modeled car on the layout in terms of scale feet. You have a vague sense that something is in there, and that is about it. So again unless this is a car meant to win contest or merit points, or if you routinely remove a car roof to show off the interior, I would not sweat interior details. Vague shapes are sufficient. That includes passengers. From the outside you can see "human shapes" but beyond that, not much can be made out. Adult or child? Gender? For the most part you can't tell.
I am reminded that according some railroad histories, in the early days of the Long Island Railroad they put cutouts of passengers in the passenger cars because the railroad was lightly patronized and they wanted it to look like the opposite was true.
Dave Nelson
Thank you very much for the quick replies and excellent suggestions and illustrations. The cars do have brass partitions attached to the floor and are phenomenally well executed because they have a perfect interference fit but without causing any bulging in the car walls - or let's say deflections.
To answer Wayne's question; indeed they do have glazing and blinds fitted and that is something I am desperate not to damage during this process.
I already have some IHC interiors which i was intending to use in the dining section and I will probably modify for the tail / observation element and the coach cars will be those Pikestuff seats you advise Edmund.
Another solution for the standard seating I am toying with, which could prove almost as cheap and less time consuming is to get 2 sets of the BLI Daylight twin unit cars which are on close-out at a few places and cannibalise those interiors.
Interestingly the cars also have a rudamentary lighting system factory installed, so having gone to the bother of fitting glazing, blinds,lights and partitions why not interiors. Who knows, I think they perhaps they were imported just before that was commonly offered.
Thanks again.
I, too, have faced the interior conundrum regarding brass cars.
In some cases I've used the Woodland scenics tinted window material and simply ignored the fact that there's nothing inside with the assumption that I'll get around to providing an interior — someday:
NKP_DL131 by Edmund, on Flickr
If you are working with coaches and parlor cars there is a solution and that is to assemble rows of seats onto strip styrene then tuck each one up over the sill and tack them in place with a sticky cement. I had to locate and drill clearance holes for the floor mounting screws to pass.
PRR_Congo_Coach by Edmund, on Flickr
Tha parlor car chairs came from Palace Car Co.
https://www.palacecarco.com/
Parlor Chairs by Edmund, on Flickr
PRR_Congo_Parlor by Edmund, on Flickr
These coach seats from Pike Stuff are already on a suitable base. It took just a little modification with a razor saw to make them suitable for placement into a coach. They match the window spacing on these Samhongsa/Challenger Congressional cars perfectly:
PRR_Budd-Congo-seat by Edmund, on Flickr
PRR_Budd-Congo-seat-1 by Edmund, on Flickr
For diners, lounge cars and Pullmans I fit up partitions as best as possible and use styrene and/or bits from scrounged Rivarossi and IHC interior kits.
PRR_Z74sideL by Edmund, on Flickr
This diner has simple tables made from strip styrene and chairs from an old Rivarossi kit:
PRR_D78c-4418 by Edmund, on Flickr
The kitchen windows are "fogged" and there is a corridor partition on the other side.
Good Luck, Ed
Do the cars have "glass" in the windows? If not, that will be another addition that will restrict what you can install as added details.
Other than adding "glass", you could also install fully-lowered window shades/blinds to simply block the view of the interior completely.
A possible option, if you can place or adjust them to not interfere with the screws that hold the floor in place, is the plastic seat castings from Pikestuff.
Since they come as six-seat units, you could simply cement them onto that 5mm sill along each side of the car (and perhaps also to the portion of the car's sides that are below window-level) then put the floor (painted a suitable colour) back into place.
That won't, of course, address the need for partions, but if they are needed, especially at the car's vestibules, I'd cut them to a height that would allow you to affix them to the underside of the car's roof, rather than to the floor.That should deal with all of the clearance restrictions.
Wayne