The original Proto RDCs had a diode bridge arrangement for a constant lighting effect. This bridge wired in series with the motor . The bridge causes a 1 and 1/2 volt drop to the motor which is used by bulbs for headlights. If you remove all of the diode bridge and wire leds accross the motor the motor will pick up that voltage for an increase in speed, For me it was enough of an increase in speed that I did not have to bother with regearing. I model a New Haven branch where 50 MPH was maximum for RDC cars
Ron High
I also adde short strips of the SMD? leds in the ceiling for interior car lighting. 2 strips wired so if you reverse directions the car has light in both directions.
I bought some sitted people painted from China at 100 for $6.00. Either the seats are too short or the people were not HO. But a quick death through being sliced in half with a pair of side cutters made them compatible enough to look decent in my 2 RDCs.
Just 'pull the shades down' for the "seats" adjacent to the motor and rig separate LEDs there -- note how short this is. Then use resistors to get the 'rest' of the interior lighting isoluminant.
This looks like a Proto 1000. I didn't get the paperwork, etc with it. I found the screws under the trucks...presto! I took the body off of the frame and it looks pretty much like the photo in your post above, except for the fact that the one I'm dealing with is all passenger so that the windows are a smoky brown to hide the motor inside. The combo doesnt have the smoky glass. I will probably have to live with it. I always like to add shades at differing heights as passengers will usually pull them down to their own liking.
Thanks for your help, Paul.
Is this a LL Proto 1000 RDC? I found one earlier this year and installed decoder and speaker. If I recall correctly, removing the couplers and the screws partially hidden under the trucks does the trick to remove the shell. See the photo in the TCS installation. Let us know if that is the issue.
| Train Control Systems (tcsdcc.com)
On the DCC subject, I installed a LokSound Select Micro decoder and a 13x18mm micro speaker in a custom styrene box. I usually remove the original circuit board but left the board in place as a support and to use some of the circuit traces to simplify the wiring. I skipped adding interior lighting...got lazy.
20210312_103810 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Notice the teeny gearbox on the front truck.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
A few years ago, I purchased a couple of Life-Like RDC's. I would like to remove the shell for two reasons: 1; to explore adding DCC to it. 2; The windows are a smokey brown color and would like to change that.
I have tried to remove the shell without any luck. I removed the couplers and pockets at both ends, and looked for any other retaining screws, etc. I pried the shell apart holding the unit upside down and shaking the frame to see if it would fall out...no cigar! Is there a trick to this? or are there screws that need to be removed and/or are there hidden tabs that need to be dealt with in another way? I am cautious about removing screws because they may be holding the motor and other hidden equipment inside. I don't have the instructions because I bought them at a train show as used, and as is. They run great (DC) but would want to convert them to DCC.
Second question: The window "glass"; they are a smokey brown and way too dark for my taste. I know they did this to hide the motor and wiring. But, there are other ways of hiding the inside stuff. Can the smokey color be removed in any way without damaging the plastic? That is the other reason for my wanting to remove the shell. This is only on one of the units because it is passenger only, not baggage. The baggage unit has mostly see thru glass.
These are the reasons for wanting to remove the shell. Any help and guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.