When NWSL recommends use of "silicone" for mounting its replacement motors, what do they mean? Only silicone I'm familiar with is for caulking. Is there some cement with a silicone base? If so, what's the advantage over some other adhesive?
I’ve been using Amazing Goop to mount my motors for about 12 years, it works great. It absorbs vibration and sound, it remains somewhat flexible and with a little elbow grease it can be removed.
https://www.google.com/search?q=amazing+goop+all+purpose&source=hp&ei=3znAYOnNNYK-0PEP6Jy0kAc&iflsig=AINFCbYAAAAAYMBH7_eOz0c5KQjJDKEUNICDeA8CJJ14&oq=amazing+goop&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYBDICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAA6CAgAELEDEIMBOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoFCAAQsQM6CAguEMcBEKMCOgUILhCxAzoOCC4QsQMQgwEQxwEQowI6CwgAELEDEIMBEMkDOgUIABCSAzoKCAAQsQMQgwEQCjoCCC46CAguEMcBEK8BOgcIABCxAxAKUJMOWMpYYL6HAWgAcAB4AIABqwGIAdALkgEEMC4xMpgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=gws-wiz
EDIT:
About 50 remotors using Goop.
Both motors are glued in with Goop, Rivarossi Cab Forward.
Athearn SD-9
Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I use silicon caulk glue to mount my motors. Its not as great as using a proper brass&screw mount, but it gets the job done, and is much better than using those tar-like black gunk that NWSL sells.
Charles
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
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Mel,
Looking through our box of glues I found a tube of E6000 "industrial strength adhesive". I noticed it's made by the same company that makes Amazing Goop. The company's description of both of these adhesives is similar. Think there's any benefit to using the Amazing Goop over E6000 for motor mounting? If so, maybe I should get the Goop.
-Chuck
Charles,
Thanks for reply. Seems like it might be a choice between your silicone caulk glue (like Loctite Silicone Clear Multipurpose Adhesive?) and an Eclectic Products adhesive (e.g. Amazing Goop, E6000). I have one of the latter company's products on hand (E6000) so maybe it'll be a flip of the coin.
I have a tube of the E6000 and the difference is Goop is Crafters glue and E6000 is Industrial Strength glue.I have not tried the E6000 but I might have to try it down the road, Goop is getting very hard to find in Bakersfield and E6000 is in all the stores.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I use caulk, the silicone stuff used for bathtubs. It's not as strong as a metal mount, but it isolates motors for installing DCC. A lot of the motors that I mount are connected directly to the bull gear (à la Mantua or MDC). I don't always get it right the first time, so I prefer to install it using a light layer, which makes it easier to remove and re-try to get the meshing right. Once it appears to be smooth and quiet, I put a heavier coat to make a strong bond.
Simon
Hello All,
Yes, they are talking about silicone caulk.
I use GE Silicone Caulk I or II to adhere my roadbed to the foam base on my pike. The difference between the two is the II is "Rain Ready" in 30-minutes.
The advantage of using silicone caulk over other adhesives is after the caulk has cured you can still pull up the roadbed without damaging either.
I imagine the advantage of mounting a motor would be if the alignment isn't perfect the motor could be removed, the caulk pulled out and the motor repositioned.
When I was a lighting technician we used a product called RTV silicone (room-temperature-vulcanizing silicone). This was used to mount electronic components in both stationary and moving lights.
And, again, like silicone caulk, it can be removed without damaging the component(s) or lighting fixture(s).
This might be the "black goop" that other responders are referring to that NWSL sells.
Because silicone caulk or RTV is viscous it will fill the void between the motor and the frame and also electronically isolate the motor- -key in DCC installations- -as has been mentioned earlier.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
There are two things that are annoying about using silicon glue (RTV) to mount a motor, 1) its messy, 2) it takes forever to setup. I have numerous small clamps and use a lot of toothpicks to keep the motor inline while the glue sets up. It’s much easier when it’s coupled up to a shaft using universal joints.
Both Canon EN-22 motors are glued in using Goop.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I agree, caulk is messy and it takes time to dry up. I was not aware that some dried up faster than others...
One thing I do is that I build a plastic mount to get the motor as close as possible to where it should be. It usually takes the form of a small plastic ramp. I just use CA to glue the plastic mount on the frame, and squeeze in some caulk to reinforce everything once all is done.
I've had good luck using hot glue. It's strong, sets quickly, it isn't smelly or toxic, and it can be removed fairly easily if you make a mistake. And like silicone, it dampens vibrations.
I don't care for silicone or other liquid/gel adhesives for installing motors. I use double sided foam tape wherever possible. Some of my remotored locomotives have served for decades with foam tape. It's flexible enough to dampen noise and vibration, while holding the motor securely in alignment.
Rob Spangler
I use GE Silicone caulk, I wasent aware of an I and II version, but I dont think its a big difference.
Hot glue isnt a good idea cause if the motor ever heats up, the glue will melt.
Foam tape is a good option if you're mounting your motor flat. Unfortunantly most of the time I mount the motors vertically, where the curved side of the motor is mounted to the flat base of a loco chassis. If I were using foam tape there would be poor contact between the two.
I also find that hot glue does not bond well to metal. But there are many locos with plastic frames out there.
wp8thsubI use double sided (SIC) foam tape...
I use double-sided foam tape to adhere decoders to frames. I have also used it to fill the void in horizontal split-frame locomotives to quiet a rattling motor.
Trainman440Hot glue isnt (SIC) a good idea cause if the motor ever heats up, the glue will melt.
Hot glue comes in two variations:
If the motor in your loco reaches those temperatures you have a bigger problem than the mounting material of the motor.
snjroyI also find that hot glue does not bond well to metal.
The hot glue manufacturers might have a differing opinion.
If there is not a large gap between the motor and the frame a bead of hot glue would hold the motor in place. Then, when cooled, another adhesive could be used to set the motor in place.
The only sit-on-the-frame locomotives I have are Athearn Blue Box. These have motor mounts to hold the motor to the frame.
Not knowing what brand of locomotive you are dealing with you could modify the O.E.M. motor mounts and use a sparing amount of the adhesive of your choice to adhere the motor to the mounts.
This would/could eliminate a huge "puddle" of adhesive in the belly of the frame.
Keep us apprised of your progress and, as always...