Old thread, but.
I carefully opened up the front pocket
A 148 with no box will then work.
Looking at the 252, it does seem similar to the 37 in terms of box size, but it's made for a whisker coupler. Kadee needs to update its documentation!
The Kadee Website describes the process as the following:
"MANTUA 0-4-0 BOOSTER # 37 COUPLER CONVERSION 1. Remove existing coupler pocket screws, covers and couplers. Save screws. 2. For pilot and tender, assemble # 37 Coupler with Torsion Spring on bottom. Do not use Lid. Install coupler from below and secure with Mantua screw. 3. Check for correct coupler height, function, and clearance and make any adjustments necessary."
It does not indicate any dremel work .
Simon
Any conversions I have done using the Kadee site, they had a sketch of the needed modifications, including parts you needed what to cut out and paarts you need to make from styrene.
Goof luck,
Richard
It has been a long time since I have done this, but I recall needing to use my Dremel tool with a milling bit to widen the area for the coupler pocket. Having said that, the range of Kadee couplers available when I did that work was more restricted: choices were basically #4, #5, #6, #7, #8), and very different than it is now. All were metal then so insulation of the coupler from the electricity-carrying frame and tender body was needed since it was also an era when other rolling stock and locomotives also had metal frames and metal couplers. Hey I said it was a long time ago!
The challenge then and now is that the metal is rather on the brittle side and i see for example that one of the tender steps has already broken off, which is something I too did accidentally with my Mantuas from time to time. In fact I also recall using the Selley after-market switcher pilot casting to replace the Manuta switcher pilot on some engines. But I digress.
I'd have to open up the coupler box to check this but I think what I did in at least one instance was follow a very old piece of advice in the Model Railroader "Kinks" column (not what you think! It wasn't naughty thoughts but rather clever solutions to common problems) was that I lined the sides of the cast on coupler pocket, enlarged slightly with that milling bit, with a bit of a thick rubber band which I "Goo-ed" to the sides, then mounted a #5 using perhaps the original Mantua screw (?) so that the shaped metal around the #5's screw hole would be automatically "centered" by the rubber band, but also was allowed a certain amount of swing for the coupler and coupler shaft, since it was also the era of tight curves. In a sense the rubber band replaced the built in spring of the #5's copper spring, for which there was not enough room. These days the whisker springs on plastic shafted Kadees would likely make that use of a rubber band unnecessary. So in thinking it over my old solutions are likely no longer needed or helpful, except for the idea of widening the area for a coupler pocket just a little bit and the advice to be careful about it because the nearby steps are delicate.
Dave Nelson
Hello,
I want to put Kadee couplers on the front and back of some vintage mantua 0-4-0 and 0-4-0 switches. The Kadee site says to use their #37 coupler. Does this work without modification on the front of the boiler and on the tender?
The boiler has a very narrow slot to fit a coupler in. The tender looks like it may fit a standard draft gear but looks a little on the narrow side. What solutions have folks used for these cases? Thanks
Boiler
Tender