Nice work and well illustrated. Thanks for that.
You can easily fashion a new drawbar using sheet brass or .040" thick styrene. However, I wouldn't depend on a drawbar for an electrical connection. A wire with mini-plugs to allow disconnection when needed is easy to do and much more reliable.
Wayne
About 15 years ago i shortened the drawbar on my Blue Line Bigboy and joined it using some plasticard top and bottom overlapping say 3/4" either end. Roughened the surfaces and used plastic cement. i was going to pin through for safety but never did and it has been rock solid all thes years. Trains aren't huge maybe 35 cars running on level track.
Charles, it's reasonable to be cautious about such apparently obvious fixes. However, I have successfully used epoxy, whether the long set or the five minute type, to repair things, and I'm continually amazed, and oh-so-gratified, to learn each time what a fantastic product it is. I have used it to hold pins I fabricated and inserted into shallow wells behind a heavy pottery plate that now hangs on our wall. Eleven years on, there's no sign the epoxy is getting tired. And this is a HEAVY plate.
We have a GE stove, recent model before they disappeared from the market, whose element handles all crack at the ends of the openings where they are pressed on to the turning stems. They're crap...period. But, I had to order more, and as soon as I got them, I made up a small batch of 5 minute epoxy and armoured all of the ends of the wells that slide over the stems sticking out of the back plate. An hour later, fully cured, I slipped those knobs over their stems, and two years have gone by without a crack or a give.
If the OP prepares suitable materials, and prepares their surfaces to give the epoxy some tooth on which to grip, they'll dig up that locomotive with him in 2000 years and it will still have a solid drawbar.
The thing I fear with using epoxy to secure the drawbar, is the fact that this guys running a Big boy, which presumably pulls long heavy trains. I dont quite trust using glue to hold a piece that has the entire force of the train placed on it.
Whatever works though.
Charles
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
Overmod I'd consider making an alignment jig to hold the broken pieces, trace the 'footprint', and cut a reinforcing sheet of thin metal or plastic to epoxy on. Then use slightly longer screws if necessary. Post pictures of the damaged pieces if you can.
I'd consider making an alignment jig to hold the broken pieces, trace the 'footprint', and cut a reinforcing sheet of thin metal or plastic to epoxy on. Then use slightly longer screws if necessary.
Post pictures of the damaged pieces if you can.
To my knowledge, MTH used atleast three different types of drawbars for their HO engines.
single pin & hole, double pin & holes, and a weird (and terribly fragile) thin PCB snap on drawbar.
Which type do you have?
Id fabricate one out of brass, add a screw as a pin on the tender, and use a separate wire plug to transmit the electrical data.
Good luck,
PS while I commend MTH for creating a "wireless drawbar", these seem to always be the first to go on their locos, being so fragile. I managed to get both my K4s for $150 due to their drawbars breaking.
Hi -- I have broken the draw bar on a MTH Big Boy and cannot find a replacement. With to all the ongoing flux within MTH due to Mike's retirement, it is difficult to get a definitive answer but it seems these are no longer available from MTH or any of its many service centers. Mine broke right where the screw attaches it to the loco so no easy way to cobble a fix. Does anyone have any ideas on how to replace it or fabricate something that might separate the mechanical and electrical functions of the original? The MTH groups.io forum is currently not very active so no help there. Thanks -- BobR