I'm looking for a solution to the problem of spilled bottles of liquid cement. I've lost count of the times I have done this over the years. I try to be careful and set the bottle down out of the way but at some point I forget and a clumsy arm will knock the bottle over and as often as not it drenches the piece I am working on.
I thought I'd found a solution with a pack of small alcohol dispenser bottles with a metal stem shorter but similar to those on the Labelle oil bottles. What I discovered is the cement flows too freely through the stem to control unless the stem gets clogged. Then when you squeeze it to break up the clog, you get a gusher. Obviously these bottles are ill suited for this purpose.
Does anyone have a solution to the problem of spilled liquid cement bottles. I wish someone would offer a liquid cement bottle like what is used for India ink bottles. It is a cone shaped bottle with a wide bottom that makes them extremely spill resistant. Here is an example:
Amazon.com: Speedball Super Black India Ink, 2-Ounce
I would use an empty India Ink bottle but the caps don't have an applicator brush. Does anyone make something similar for liquid cement bottles.
I rumaged around the wood bin and found a piece that was 4" x 4" x 2 1/4" thick. I drilled a hole a bit bigger than the bottle most of the ways through, from the large face.
I find it impossible (no, I've not really tried) to spill the bottle.
Ed
I do what Ed did. I took a piece of 1/2 ply and drilled a hole to accomodate Tru scale, model master and Bondene bottles and and oval hole to accomodate CA and a few small holes to fit a paint brush. I glued that to another piece of 1/2" and ran it through a table saw until it was square.
I haven't unpacked enough from my move to take a picture.
To tweak the direction of the thread, there are micro spouts which fit on glue bottles. Do these clog up?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I was particularly concerned about Plasti-weld in the orange labeled bottle. So, I stole a small circular Tupperware bowl from the pantry, placed the Plasti-weld bottle in it, and wrapped a rag around the bottle. No way that it will tip over or spill.
Rich
Alton Junction
The Tupperware idea sounds like it might work for me. I think I have an old plasic tub too. Hollowing out a wood base seems like a good idea too but I don't think I have a drill with a large enough diameter for the Plastruct cement bottles I use. Using a Dremel with a spiral saw bit might be difficult on a piece thick enough to do the job. I've tried that in the past and it produces lots of smoke.
7j43kI rumaged around the wood bin and found a piece that was 4" x 4" x 2 1/4" thick. I drilled a hole a bit bigger than the bottle most of the ways through, from the large face.
Yeah, similarly, I used a scrap of 2"x4" then drilled an almost suitably-sized hole right through it, using a spade bit. Since the bottle I was using is an old Solvaset bottle, I had to use a keyhole saw and a very coarse mill file to "sorta square" the hole...more like crapsmanship rather than craftsmanship. It does work to prevent spills, though, and the bottle is a tight fit, so it won't slip through if I pick it up by the block. The Solvaset brush-in-cap works well with the cement, which is MEK, but I do usually use paint brushes, sized to suit the job at hand when applying the cement....
Wayne
I glued mine to a 2 1/2" round plastic base.
Then I glued a whole bunch of unused bits and pieces to the base.
Now it is like a piece of modern artwork.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
What I use is a shortened plastic cup, attached at the bottom to a strip of heavy flexible rubber that won't mark table surfaces. The rubber conforms to the surface and keeps the cup from tipping, and the bottle sits in the cup.
I got the idea from a holder that was sold for La-Z-Boy style chairs, molded in one piece with a 'socket' for your beer and two little ears that straddle the arm to make a non-tip "cupholder". I found that if you lay this flat on a mattress it does just fine too...
I have also found that the principle of the Rapidograph can work to keep those metal or plastic hypodermic glue tips clear. Get a long thin piece of wire and make a small 'head' on one end, that will fit under the cap when pressed on to seal the tip. Dip this in solvent and slide it into the tip to clear it when needed; if the glue hardens around it you can often torque it free.
These are all great ideas. I haven't done much, if any, of this kind of painting, at least not in recent years. Just thinking:
Elbows are a problem in any direction and at any height. Placement of the holder-mit-bottle (I know better than to try to get c.u.m. past the censor) will present risk to itself, to the item being painted, but also to anything else in the arc of movement possible, including other tools, other kits, brushes, holders, etc. So, I would probably lean toward a bored length of 2X4, maybe with up to three holes, and it would be screwed down somewhere to the side of my painting arm so that elbow movements would be restricted and precluded from sweeping up over the working surface. With deep enough wells, the bottle should be all but impossible to tip.
OvermodWhat I use is a shortened plastic cup, attached at the bottom to a strip of heavy flexible rubber that won't mark table surfaces. The rubber conforms to the surface and keeps the cup from tipping, and the bottle sits in the cup.
I need a picture. I cannot visulize what you are describing.
Similar to using a block of wood, you could use a scrap of 2" extruded foam. easy to cut to any size or shape bottle. If the glue damages the foam, easy to make another.
Good luck,
Richard
John-NYBW The Tupperware idea sounds like it might work for me. I think I have an old plasic tub too.
The Tupperware idea sounds like it might work for me. I think I have an old plasic tub too.
Boilerman, for some reason I had trouble getting to your photo.
Here it is after I found it:
York1 John
selectorand it would be screwed down somewhere to the side of my painting arm
That sounds pretty painful to me.
2 bottles inside a partly used roll of masking tape is good enough for my purposes.
1 bottle has enough room to tip over - 2 bottle uses up that room
My daughter made a ceramic cup with a very wide base in grade shool, it just happens to be the right size for a bottle.
selectorand it would be screwed down somewhere to the side of my painting arm so that elbow movements would be restricted and precluded from sweeping up over the working surface.
maxman selector and it would be screwed down somewhere to the side of my painting arm That sounds pretty painful to me.
selector and it would be screwed down somewhere to the side of my painting arm
Why, yes..........it does.
I ought to have said that I would anchor the three-holed block to the bench on the same side as my painting arm, my left it happens.
dknelsonranking right up there with sharpening your teeth
If you are going to do this, might as well have a wedge shaped space ground between the two upper front ones so that you can also strip wire.
The liquid Plastiweld cement sold at my local HobbyLobby just so happens to be the exact same diameter of the skinny rolls of Gorilla Tape they also sell.... Sits tightly inside the tube, and zero chance at spilling that.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I'll bet Pinocchio wouldn't feel it!.....lol ,lol..
Take Care!
Frank
I used a short length of 2x4 with holes that I drilled with paddle (spade) bits. For odd-shaped bottles, I drilled the hole then finish-sizing the hole with a Dremel with a sanding drum. I glued and screwed some legs to the bottom side. Try as I might, I couldn't tip it over.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I have several old glass baby food jars. I put liquid plasit cement bottles in them. I also use them for the Micro-scale decal setting solutions, which are tall thin bottles as well.