Another vote for Peco insulated rail joiners. I haven't yet used them on N scale but in HO the Atlas insulated rail joiners are fat and ugly. I started using Peco turnouts on my new layout and had to switch to Peco insulated rail joiners because they are slender and will fit in the space where Peco has molded into the turnout end ties. they work great and the only time I have to trim them is some of the end ties have a short "pocket" for them to go so I have to cut about a 3rd of one side off to get them to fit. Easy enough.
WPA I found them hard to put on cut rails. I slide them on a factory cut end of a rail firsts, which seems to open them up enough to deal with cut rail. I have not had any trouble with gaps and once rails painted, don't notice them.
I found them hard to put on cut rails. I slide them on a factory cut end of a rail firsts, which seems to open them up enough to deal with cut rail. I have not had any trouble with gaps and once rails painted, don't notice them.
As for hard to put on cut rails, that is what needle files are for. After you cut the rail, lightly file a slight bevel in the edges of the cut rail. That usually gets them to slide on easier.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I am going to follow you guys. Besides being difficult to install, the plastic joiner often leads an irregular track gap. Leaving a real gap, filled with cement makes more sense.
Dave K.
I have used CA glue on both rails, inside and outside of the rail, back about one inch on both side of where my cut will be so the rail stays fastened to the ties. When dry, almost like being said above, I razor saw though both rails and fill in the cut with glue and dress it up. I have used those Peco N-Scale clear joiners also.
I TRY TO ALWAYS MAKE THE CUT/GAP ON TOP OF A TIE.
Those orange ones were ugly as I remember them too. I have the new PECO ones and they are clear.
I guess as modelers are demanding more realistic products, the thought is you mark your isolated blocks with a rock, a tree, a mile marker sign or something so you know where they are and not see the isolated rail joiner stick out like a sore thumb so much.
I haven't had a problem putting these ones on. I think I'm going to follow my brother's idea of just laying the track and taking a fine Dremel stone and cutting gaps in the rails for the isolated blocks. Then Fill the Gaps with some sort of high-quality liquid Elastomer. Then carve the product flush with a razor blade after it's dry.
I don't think these bulky clear rail joiners will look to eye pleasing in a track side photo.
TF
Dave,
When I was in N scale (a long time ago), the Atlas insulated rail joiners were big ugly orange things. They were ugly, but very easy to use (and see) on their track.
Has the design changed?
-Kevin
Living the dream.
These things are a bear to install. Any tips?
Thanks,