Glad to hear that it worked for you, too. I did over 70 of those locos in the first picture posted earlier, so had plenty of opportunities to perfect the technique.
The RS-1 handrails were one-piece castings in engineering plastic, but since it was an older offering from Atlas, the handrail portions were overly thick. I used the castings as a pattern to bend new handrails using piano wire, then cut-out the plastic handrails, and drilled the stanchions to allow them to be threaded onto the wire handrails.
Wayne
Doctor Wayne you advise was great. I was able to get the handrails done much easier. Thanks again.
Thanks Doctor Wayne. I had planned on building them off the model but was going to solder them But I think your method with CA might be easier. Will try the 90 bend to strat with might make it easier than trying to start with it flat and bend around. Will let you know how it goes. As always I appreciate your Insights.
I've not used those items, but I have used Athearn's steel handrail stanchions, and found that better results can be had when bending them around the handrail if the stanchions are not yet installed on the locomotive...in other words, build the handrails on the workbench, then install them as pre-built units on the model.
If you bend a 90º angle in the stanchion at the top of the handrail, you should then be able continue that bend using your pliers below the handrail. Properly-done, this will transition that 90º bend into a smooth curve around the handrail, also allowing you to align any excess length of the wrapped-around portion of the stanchion behind the stanchion.
When you install the pre-fabricated handrail, space-out the stanchions appropriately so that they can be inserted into their respective holes on the sideframe, then re-align the tops of the stanchions so that they're at a 90º angle to the walkways.You can then apply a small amount of ca to the base of the stanchions where they're inserted into the edge of the walkway, then follow up by applying ca to each stanchion where it wraps around the handrail - a neat and effective way to perform this operation is to place some ca on an impervious surface (I do this sort of work on the glass surface of my work desk) then use the tip of an #11 X-Acto blade (it doesn't need to be sharp...in fact, an older blade with the tip missing works better, as it will hold a little more ca), then dip the blade into the ca and touch it first to one side of the stanchion/handrail connection and then immediately to the other side of that same stanchion...this will draw the ca completely through the joint, making a very secure bond. Use a paper towel or a cloth to remove any excess glue.Here's the Athearn handrails and stanchions, done in that manner, about 40 years ago...
(Click on the photos to get a larger view)
I've also used a somewhat similar technique to improve one-piece handrails made from engineering plastics.The first step is to remove the handrails, then use them as a pattern to bend similar ones from wire. I use .015" piano wire, then cut all of the plastic handrail from between the stanchions.
Next, use a suitable bit in a pin vise to drill all of the stanchions, then thread them onto the handrails. Installation is similar to that above, although the ca bond with the engineering plastic is not quite as good as that with a metal-to-metal joint.This yields a handrail that's less-likely to be deformed by inappropriate handling or storage, as the piano wire springs back to its original position.
Here's an older Atlas RS-1, done for a friend...
I see that you've edited your thread title while I was typing my response, so you may wish to update it again.
I am detailing an Athearn SW1000 using the KV Models laser etched handrail stantions. Using the drill guide I have drilled the holes and bent the bottom pieces of the stantions and am happy with them. I am wondering if any one has tips on bending the top portions around the handrails. This is giving me fits and I am wondering if there is an easy way I am missing. Currently I am trying to get the handrail and top end of the stantion in a pair of needle nose pliers and then bend them down "basically rolling the handrail down the top of the stantion with the top edge of the stantion in tow" If you follow me.
Thanks for any advise.
Ron