weathering aluminum corrigation

[Anonymous]

I truly appreciate all the inputs guys...thanx. Pretty soon i will post some pics of my layout online and share them with yeah...the corigated aluminum is gonna go on a scratch built N scale 'duffys coal yard (remeber the fine scale models kit in HO...i made one in N scale...).
thanx again..

[Anonymous]

Using circuit board etchant is the way I did it. Radio Shack sells (or used to anyway) the stuff in a plastic bottle. It is an acid and is very nasty stuff, so use rubber gloves, eye protection, and be in a ventilated area - the fumes it gives off aren't good for you. I used it in my paint spray booth. It will bubble out of the glass container when working.

Cut the corrugated aluminum into the scale sized pieces you want, and dip them into the etchant using tweezers. It will sit there for a few seconds and then all of a sudden start bubbling and boiling - time to take it out! I used a comtainer of clean water to dip the material in to stop the chemical process. I just read recently that it is better to use a solution of water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. If you don't the material will continue to work its way through the aluminum and will disappear alltogether.

Stopping the acid working is mostly a trial and error situation - stop too early and it is just slightly discolored, stop too late and you don't have much material left. Be sure to have more pieces of aluminum than you need, as you will ruin some.

Take care and be safe - don't take any shortcuts! [V]

Bob Boudreau

[Jetrock]

One hardcore method, slightly less hardcore than circuit board etching solution, is to use olive oil and an open flame.

Basically, you brush olive oil over the Campbell aluminum siding and then hold it over the flame (using a pair of hemostats or something, NOT your fingers!) and let it scorch. The olive oil will impart a rusty red-brown color to the aluminum that is chemical in nature and won't rub off. Repeated coats will give it a darker blackish-brown color.

The article recommended doing it over a gas stove but I imagine you could use a candle or an oil lamp (have a bucket of water and/or fire extinguisher nearby!)

[Anonymous]

Thanks fo the kind words UKGuy. The trees in most shots are Scenics express Super Trees. Very Easy and they look great. The supertrees starter pack is a great deal. The trees in the long shot of the stock train are Woodland scenic with the white metal armatures. Quite a pain but they can come out pretty good.

I will post Willoughby line stuff as soon as there is something more than Atlas code 100 (staging ) to show. The helix is done and I am starting to lay out the yard ...Excitement of creation is high, but everything takes much longer thaqn you ythink it should.

[ukguy]

sorry I cant help you on the corrugated aluminum langus but I did check out your pics Guy and WOW !! they are amazing, I cant wait to see the new pics of the Willoughby Line when they are posted. They truely give me something to aspire too. I am in awe of your work and being a beginner I am being a sponge for info. Excellelent job, and those trees are fantastic.

Take Care.

[Anonymous]

The article in question was by Rand Hood. I have it in storage in the garage (currently inacesssible). I believe he used circuit board etching solution on the corrugated aliminum.. Very cool also very hardcore...Sorry I don't have the issue for you.

[Anonymous]

Somebody help... I saw an article one time in Model Railroader that explains how to get Campbells corrigated aluminum to rust. I have the magazine barried in with my gad-zillions of other MR mags, but I cant find that article. So my question is, does anyone know what that magazine date is, or better yet, how to rust the metal? Was it with muratic acid...i can remeber...HELP>>>