Does anyone out there have any experience using the couplers that the uncoulpling action is controlled by dcc? I'd like to hear other peoples experience with them.
I have tried a couple and they work OK but two was enough for me. I rarely do any switching, I’m a running guy.They can be a bit temperamental but the ones I have work pretty good.I’m a gadget guy and for that purpose they are very good to show off now and then. There is a learning curve for perfect use, when only one coupler moves its kinda tricky to uncouple. Too expensive to install them in enough equipment for perfect operation.EDIT:You have to use separate decoder ports for them. One coupler takes over 80ma, paralleling them would ding the decoder. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I mean, is uncoupling cars really too much of a hassle? There are wooden sticks and magnet uncouplers that kadee and rix sell that are super nice if you're unable to couple trains effectively. You could also just lift a car up to uncouple them.
If you want it just for the sake of having another gadget, MTH engines often come with couplers that can be fired by a DCC controller. They work okay, although they look very chunky. I usually just replace them with Kadees, as my hands work good enough and it looks far too oversized, creates another point of failure, and finicky for my tastes. But that's personal opinion.
Here's a video of MTH couplers in action:
Good luck,
Charles
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
do you only want to uncouple cars at the loco?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
OK, in that MTH demo, the car must be up against a bumper, they do NOT close that easily. I have an FA set which has operating couplers and while they uncouple nicely, to couple the loco back on to a standing train you have to ram it far harder than I like to treat to my rolling stock. They shipped with a pair of Kadees to replace the operating ones, which I did. Being able to uncouple just the loco isn't very helpful.
I've seen a coupel of ways to pull on a Kadee couple and make it open - most common is 'muscle wire' and small motors like pager motors. You can put them in most any sort of enclosed car, but then there's the whole idea of getting electrical pickup, and adding a decoder, and addressing it. Most car numbers are outside the range of DCC addresses, so you can't just use the car number. Last 4 digits or something. ANd car numbers tend to be less legible from a distance than loco numbers. Outfit enough cars, and I supposed even with a proper operating scheme you might get lucky that the place you need to cut the train is next to one of the operating coupler cars, even if not all cars are so equipped. And then what about something like a flat car? And are you really going to put a $20 decoder and $10 worth of misc. parts in a $3 Athearn BB kit car? x however many hundreds of cars you have?
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I have an MTH 3 rail O gauge diesel that came with them. The protosound 3 decoder works with my DCC. The couplers work okay. But as others have noted you only uncouple at the locomotive.
For me it's a fun novelty when running my diesel, but not something I am looking to add to my HO/S/O(2 rail) locomotives much less all the cars.
Paul
Now if I had moved from HO to ON30 and only had a dozen or so cars it might have seemed attractive. they don't work as well as advertized though. Only system that I have seen that is 100% reliable is Kadees under the track magnet and that is only on a section of straight track, and even these, as a track curves, its reliability goes down.
Williekat Does anyone out there have any experience using the couplers that the uncoulpling action is controlled by dcc? I'd like to hear other peoples experience with them.
In about a day or so if you peruse the MR Photo Gallerys section (and they allow my posts), you might find interesting. (I cant post normally like others do so i cheat by using MRs site. )
While i dont have experience in DCC, ive been all over the ADC side of this aspect. DCC still provides better advantages - utilizing constant track power (better than a waving wand) and precise digital push button control (you dont have to find the 'sweet spot' like you do with a wand).
But i think the DCC community is kinda limited in the availability of models. Generally these are mechanical in nature which require some kind of altering the model plus the movement hardware. (expense?)
The above method doesnt need all that, and can still work with DCC, or not. Plus, you can do it right here right now at home if you have a Kadee, metal mounting screw, and a magnet (on a shteeeck!).
Its not flick of the switch control like you want, but its here and now, cheap, and it works. Unlike the DCC version, this method can be undone in minutes and back to original form. No holes to hide or other alterations the mechanical versions leave.
Last item - think of all the decoders youd need. The ADC version is just reusing a Kadee you already have plus a metal screw and magnet. The magnet is reusable - decoders are 1 per car. Kadees already on every car.
This may not be the DCC experience your seeking, but it is food for thought on do you want to go the DCC way in the first place. No discouragement meant.
Clear Ahead!
PMR