I picked this up a while back and just got to finishing it! Tenshodo made some nice, affordable running models back in the 60's, and this 0-6-0T is a good runner that's easy to build and work on. The huge empty space in the boiler is great for installing sound and DCC, or just sticking in a ton of weight if you want it to outpull a Big Boy.
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Nifty. I have never rewound a motor. Yours seems to run very well.
Thank you for the video. I am surprized how easily it walked away with that long train that I would have attached a Heavy Mikado to.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
One loco I had that would pull an insane number of cars was an American Flyer HO industrial diesel - the little blue one. All metal. I could put on enough cars on out old layout that they would loop around the whole 4x8 oval and this was one of the few locos that could move all of them. Only 4 wheels on the thing, all driven, no traction tires. It was WAY heavier than it looked like it ought to be.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Nicely done!! I love to see modelers rehabbing older models and getting 'em to run nicely and reliably!!
Don; Prez, CEO or whatever of the Wishram, Oregon and Western RR
Wonder if that mechanism would fit under the Mantua saddle tank shell.....
I always enjoy your work, Darth. Nice job on this one. The pilot looks like it was made there.
I once bought a Tenshodo diecast covered hopper just because it was a Tenshodo. Wasn't very well detailed but weighs a TON! Dan
According to a friend's website, the locomotive is a long-selling model released in 1956 as the Baldwin 0-6-0T, with several structural changes. The prototype is the Japanese National Railways class 1350 manufactured by Pittsburgh Locomotive Works in 1897 and imported into Japan. (Wikipedia-Japanese)
The scale is slightly larger and is said to be 1/80. It seems that it was matched to the motor size at that time.
I like the jack rabbit start also.
Tenshodo ad, June 1957 issue of the Hobby of Model Railroading magazine (TMS)
Thanks! I'm certainly happy with how it turned out!
SeeYou190, if there's one thing these old metal steam engines had, it was power! No need for tires on these things to make them pull.
rrinker, I have an original Penn Line Whitcomb switcher like that. 4 wheels and smaller than a Dockside switcher, but the solid lead body, thick brass chassis, all metal gears and DC-70 motor give it enough torque and traction to pull as much as a 6-axle diesel! I don't know if the chassis from this 0-6-0 will fit the Mantua body, but it might work with some modification.
BN7150, thanks for the info! I knew these were around for a long time, but I didn't know they went all the way back to '56. Matching to the motor size was a lot more common back then, like with Athearn's GP7/9 and other hood units.
In BN7150's information is correct, maybe not, if the loco was built slightly over HO scale. It looks like the motor would fit int he cab of the Mantua loco, and since there is nothing up front where a traditional steam model gearbox would be, the difference between the side tank and saddle tank would make no difference.. Overall length could be an issue. The Tenshodo model has all 3 axles with flanged wheels, not the extra wide unflanged center driver like the Mantua.
Maybe a Bachmann mechanism would be a better starting point. If the cab is left free, I can put one of those concave speakers up under the roof to get sound in it.
rrinker The Tenshodo model has all 3 axles with flanged wheels, not the extra wide unflanged center driver like the Mantua.
The Tenshodo model has all 3 axles with flanged wheels, not the extra wide unflanged center driver like the Mantua.
I replaced the center driver on a Mantua switcher with a flanged version. It looked much better.
I finally got a photo hosting account going, so I'll post a picture of my version of the Tenshodo 0-6-0T. I bought it in 1960, along with a pile of Kemtron detailing parts. Most still show in the photo, although the air pump is now a Cal Scale, and the braking system was added later:
Like Darth, I added a pickup wiper to the front left driver, which you can just barely see. Being as I built this long before DCC, the major void is filled with lead. It weighs close to a pound: 14 oz.
I was inspired by this page out of a PFM catalog:
https://hoseeker.net/pacificfastmailinformation/pfmcatalog4thed1958pg02.jpg
Which reminds me:
I got that catalog by sending a check for maybe 50 cents to PFM, and they sent me the catalog.
Back then, to get product information, you needed a catalog. When I decided to try HO out, I knew next to nothing. But I DID pick up Model Railroader every month (tha's what inspired me to go to HO from Lionel). So, in thumbing through the mag, I saw many manufacturers that would send you a catalog. I convince my mother to write itty bitty checks to all these places, and sent away for them. Which is EXACTLY how I ended up with the 1958 PFM catalog. And a number of others.
Ah, the Olden Dayes......
Ed
While this topic is here, I'll add on to the discussion of scale. Japanese HO scale (called HOj) is 1/80 standard, it's to compensate a bit for their track gauge which is 3'6". Makes it easier than having to make separate model track just for Japan. As I understand it, their Shinkansen models are 1/87 because they run on standard gauge.
-Peter. Mantua collector, 3D printing enthusiast, Korail modeler.
I recently purchased one of these at a train show for a mere $5. The engine is in overall good condition, the back steps are rather mangled but that doesn't bother me too much. It does however have one other glaring issue in that it is missing the brush housing and brushes (I don't know how or why). This seems like an extremely long shot do you have any ideas for sourcing a replace or substitute?
horepairshop I recently purchased one of these at a train show for a mere $5. The engine is in overall good condition, the back steps are rather mangled but that doesn't bother me too much. It does however have one other glaring issue in that it is missing the brush housing and brushes (I don't know how or why). This seems like an extremely long shot do you have any ideas for sourcing a replace or substitute?
Short of finding a used Tenshodo motor on eBay, you might need to replace the motor outright. North West Shortline likely has a motor and worm set that will fit, and installing it shouldn't be too difficult. Their customer service guys are very helpful in figuring out what you need. I recently remotored a brass Japanese 0-4-0 of similar construction using such a motor, it was simply a matter of gluing the worm on the shaft, and then using some silicone to glue the motor in place. I did grind down the worm and shaft to fit, but that was pretty straightforward to do with a Dremel. It was my first remotor job and turned out pretty well!
The motor is a Tenshodo MV-1. The "V" is for vertical.
I DO wonder that you are missing the brush housing and brushes. I just don't understand why anyone would remove the brush housings, even if it's possible. You MIGHT be referring to the brush retainers, which are little caps that screw onto the brush housing. They hold the brush and its spring.
IF you are missing these parts, I suggest you contact Tenshodo in Japan. They may have parts. Or replacement motors.
Another option is to buy another one of these. Maybe between the two, you can get one good loco.
It would certainly be interesting to remotor one of these.
I miss the PFM ads. Used to sit there and drool - I was a teenager and any spare money I had was being spent on girls. Looking back, I think i had my priorities wrong...