As far as I'm aware, most rolling stock axles nowadays, other than those from Kadee and Accurail, are metal. The reason that the more recent wheels sets with metal wheels roll better is due to a better interface between the ends of the axles and the pockets in the trucks in which they roll. It has little to do with the metal wheels, and I'd guess that substituting plastic wheels, on those axles and in those trucks, would roll equally well, but with less of the non-prototypical racket caused by metal wheels.
Wayne
Medina1128 I found that using a knuckle spring from Kadee on the end of an axle creates just enough drag to keep a car from rolling where you spot it.
I found that using a knuckle spring from Kadee on the end of an axle creates just enough drag to keep a car from rolling where you spot it.
Agreed. They've worked well for me also. I've got what became a rather large switching layout on wheels and had a real problem with cars rolling all over the place whenever I moved it. I cut the springs, tiny as they are, in half installing the closed end in the truck "axle pocket" and the cut end against the axle point. I add these modified springs to additional axles until the car is stable, marking the spring placement with a dot of silver marker on the bottom of the truck.
Coupling, uncoupling and spotting are improved. The added drag also does nice things to the Tsunami 2's 539T load sensing sound on my Alco switchers ... especially when my RS-1 switches out an eight car cut to drop another eight for the local switchers to deal with.
Medina1128I found that using a knuckle spring from Kadee on the end of an axle creates just enough drag to keep a car from rolling where you spot it.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
PRR8259There is no reason for me to ever use plastic wheelsets because they create much more track dirt and some of today's dcc engines do not like track dirt.
I wonder where that myth of plastic wheels creating dirt originated. Most of my rolling stock uses plastic wheels, and the only time I need to clean track is after ballasting or adding scenic material in areas close to the track.
Normal track cleaning for me is done every year or two using my shop vac, equipped with a tool suitable to the clearances available in various locales. I have no need to clean any wheels, except the brass driver treads on older models of steam locomotives
I do have some cars that came with metal wheels, but I don't particularly care for the racket they make when moving (it sounds nothing like the real ones I hear when railfanning). I'm also not too fond of their appearance, as the shiny tread, even on semi-scale code 88 wheels, tends to draw one's eyes to their overly-thick width, which, in-turn, emphasises the fact that the truck sideframes stick-out further under the car than is prototypical, all due to the wide tread profile. Of course, plastic wheels are overly wide, too, but their non-shiny finish makes those faults at least less noticeable...none of that "look at me, my wheels are shiny!"
I recall when it was all the rage to replace one's plastic wheels with metal, and how many modellers left them shiny, not only on the treads, but also front- and rear-faces.
Forming a loop of soft copper wire over the truck axles will slow them down. Adjust so it just rests on the top of the axles, not on the ends.
BigDaddyBTW grease attracts dirt. I would not be eager to try that suggestion.
Many of the brass models I own are pivot wheels with brass bearings. I'm greased there and certainly some of them get dusty. But that's not a problem. Please tell us about the troubles you have experienced with grease and dust.
JDawgBut I absolutely hate the answers that tell me what I already know.
You had it coming with the title of your thread. The title of the thread is critical in getting a helpful reply. "How do I prevent cars from rolling away while coupling?" would have reframed thee discussion.
It's the Internet, people will answer questions you didn't ask, change scales, throttle manufacturers, and if you are lucky, your thread will not descend into the price of hockey pucks. Which I know now, but didn't know a couple weeks ago.BTW grease attracts dirt. I would not be eager to try that suggestion.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Many thanks to all those that offered suggestions. I'm going to try a few and see. I love this forum for asking questions about things that dont have a lot of published info. But I absolutely hate the answers that tell me what I already know. Like free rolling wheel sets are a good thing. I know they are, but I also need to be able to spot cars where and when I choose. Anyway, thanks again!
JJF
Prototypically modeling the Great Northern in Minnesota with just a hint of freelancing.
Yesterday is History.
Tomorrow is a Mystery.
But today is a Gift, that is why it is called the Present.
I reads years ago where somebody took old atlas snap switch motors and mounted them under the layout sideways. Attached a wire with just enough length so when in the up position, it catch the axles.
Saw another little gadget that was a small block the fits over the rail with a short wire tail to act as a wheel stop. It had either a short piano wire or tab to sit against a tie.
Shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
hornblower How about adding working hand brakes? Just kidding!
How about adding working hand brakes? Just kidding!
One idea I have seen is similar to Mr B's, that is use a short piece of piano wire standing up between the rails to catch the axle of the car.
Some I have seen mentioned even have the wire so that it may be raised and lowered by using something similar to a choke cable. I think these are more on the mainline, so that they won't interfear with traffic.
Good luck,
Richard
If the metal wheels roll too much, try applying grease to the bearings. The starting resistance has increased and the rolling stock will have stopped on a slight slope. On the other hand, when it starts running, the original lubricating action of grease is exhibited. There are two challenges. One is to choose grease of appropriate hardness (cone penetration, kinematic viscosity). The other is that there is no adverse effect on the paint coating or plastic (ABS and styrene). Let's try it for a model greace for the time being. What about petrolatum, lip balm, pomade, or Mentholatum? Those who believe shall be saved.
charlie9 I have noticed that sometimes it is difficult to couple up to a free rolling car because the car runs away before the couplers open. Just like in the real world when the pin refuses to drop. In that event I just back off and hit it harder. Again, just like in real life. Still, it is a compromise we have to live with. Charlie (grouchy German)
I have noticed that sometimes it is difficult to couple up to a free rolling car because the car runs away before the couplers open. Just like in the real world when the pin refuses to drop. In that event I just back off and hit it harder. Again, just like in real life. Still, it is a compromise we have to live with.
Charlie (grouchy German)
This is actually a problem with Kadee semi scale couplers, they can require more force to couple than the original coupler.
And they require even more force when you mix the semi scale head with a regular head coupler.
That's why I do not use semi scale couplers.
But I would never give up my metal wheels in my sprung/equlaized trucks.
Sheldon
MisterBeasley I have a few spots on my layout with slight grades on stub sidings. But, I do have metal wheels on almost all my rolling stock to reduce friction. So, I cut short tufts of field grass and glue it down between the rails, just a few tufts. It looks like a slightly unkempt siding, but with no engine pulling or pushing the cars, the grass holds them in place.
I have a few spots on my layout with slight grades on stub sidings. But, I do have metal wheels on almost all my rolling stock to reduce friction. So, I cut short tufts of field grass and glue it down between the rails, just a few tufts. It looks like a slightly unkempt siding, but with no engine pulling or pushing the cars, the grass holds them in place.
Simon
Eeeewww.
There is no reason for me to ever use plastic wheelsets because they create much more track dirt and some of today's dcc engines do not like track dirt.
John
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hornblower
selector An infestation of riches. I wonder if the truck sideframe cones that take the tips of the axles could have bits of polyester fiber packed into them to provide a bit of resistance.
An infestation of riches.
I wonder if the truck sideframe cones that take the tips of the axles could have bits of polyester fiber packed into them to provide a bit of resistance.
dknelsonPlastic wheelsets can also be very free rolling and are unlikely to resolve the "problem."
This is so true.
I used Tichy caboose trucks on all of my cabooses, because I was getting intermittent shorts with the brass cabooses and metal trucks.
The all plastic Tichy trucks are the most free-rolling trucks I have.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Plastic wheelsets can also be very free rolling and are unlikely to resolve the "problem." Indeed I remember when the Lindberg plastic trucks were causing many modelers to realize the changes in elevations in their layouts that the older - metal - trucks never let them knew they had.
One old piece of advice is to place a very soft coil-type spring at the axle end as it is being put into the truck, for that bit of resistance that Selector writes about. Initially I think that advice was for cabooses so that there would be a bit of tension at the end of the train to avoid the "slinky" look of cars bunching up and then pulling slightly apart as a train made its way around the layout.
Dave Nelson
Wow! Hearing your metal wheels roll too freely to me is like saying "I'm getting too much air" or "I have too much money" I can understand your dilemma of not being able to have your car stay put though.
Your track will stay cleaner with metal wheels than plastic.
Maybe the other guys here have some kind of techniques for getting cars to stay put that I am unaware of.
TF
Try gluing a spring wiper to one of the trucks on each car, as if you were trying to add eletrical pickup. The spring tension against the axles will make them a bit less free rolling, and you get to keep the nicer look of the metal wheels.
_________________________________________________________________
Yup. You read that right. First of all let me say that metal wheels are not necessary for my layout. My train length does not necessitate the lower friction metal wheels provide. But, some of my rolling stock came with metal wheels. The problem children are several Atlas Master tanker cars, an Athearn Caboose, and some other astorted cars with metal wheels. The problem seems to stem from the way I lay flex track. I like the look of very slight variations in elevation (were talking 1/16 of an inch) on my yard tracks. I think it gives a very prototypical apearence as the train bobs just slightly. I don't want to debate that however. Because of these slight irregularities, these cars don't stay where I spot them! I set out a tanker at the end of a track, turn around, and by the time I look back, the darn thing has rolled 12 inches down the tracks and coupled with 4 other cars! In addition, when these cars are being pulled at low speeds, they are jerky because the locomotive doesn't have enough speed to fight the cars lack of friction. The cars jerk and yank against the engine when going down a slight depression. I've done testing and the problem is definitely the metal wheels. I've triple checked the weight of the cars as well, and they are all spot on. None of my cars with plastic wheelsets have this problem. Should I switch to all plastic?