I purchased a new Proto 2000 0-8-0. Are there best practices for running in a new locomotive, particularly steam? It did have a bit of hitch at first, but after running it for 50' or so it seems to be smoothed out. I can't see any oil on the running gear, but does it need it?
My engines instruction booklet(s) have said what to do as far as lubricants and break-in. Some needed it, some didn't. Do what the manufacturer suggests. Regardless, they all tend to smooth out after a few laps.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Every locomotive I have bought as been oiled properly before hand. I just give it a good run both ways before 'putting it into service'.
If it is bought second hand then perhaps a service/oiling may be required.
David
To the world you are someone. To someone you are the world
I cannot afford the luxury of a negative thought
Opinions are going to vary. However, you should go very sparingly with oil. Any excess oil attracts dirt, which could actually accelerate the wear. Normally it is recommended to apply just a small drop of oil to the various moving pins/screws/rivets about which parts rotate.
The Proto 2000 series steam engines normally run and hold up very well. Try not to grab the valve gear when you pick up the model, as being lighter in weight, it can be easier to bend pieces out of adjustment, and can be difficult to fix properly if it gets bent.
I am speaking from experience as I once had a P2K 2-10-2 that had to be replaced by Walthers after a rod got bent by a screw backing out. Local repair tech did what they could, but it wouldn't run correctly again even after professional repair.
Be careful not to run too fast the first hour of so of use, in case a screw is working its way out. I would check to make sure all the screws that hold rods to the drivers are tight, that none are loose.
John
BATMANRegardless, they all tend to smooth out after a few laps.
In addition, I believe, especially with a switcher, most manufacturers suggest "running-in" in both directions at varying speeds. I agree with Brent, over time most engines will smooth out after an hour or so of running, some take longer, most don't.
I have several Proto "Heritage" steam locomotives including a pair of the 0-8-0s and they are all very good running engines.
Good Luck, Ed
We've had multiple discussions about this, many of which indicate that locomotives from the factory are not properly lubricated, others of which note that if the locomotive has been idle, or improperly stored, the lubricant may actually have deteriorated into a bad thing.
Problem is that in a number of cases it's physically hard to assess the nature and state of the lubrication, and sometimes "cleaning it out" and replacing with the proper mix, consensus is of various LaBelle products as appropriate, is a difficult exercise.
"Breaking in" without the proper tribology -- or perhaps with broken or misaligned driveline components, may really just be starting the process of wearing out a bit quicker.
When was this loco manufactured? I once bought a PK2 SW diesel that was new but I knew it sat in the shop for around 10 years. The lube had hardened and I had to clean and re- lube before it would run well.
Once you run it for a time it should be able to creep smoothly. I have an early run 0-8-0 and it is a smooth runner.
CN Charlie
doublereefed I purchased a new Proto 2000 0-8-0. Are there best practices for running in a new locomotive, particularly steam? It did have a bit of hitch at first, but after running it for 50' or so it seems to be smoothed out. I can't see any oil on the running gear, but does it need it?
As the others have suggested, it depends on how old the lubes are. They lose volatiles over time, probably oxidize or have some other deterioration take place, and they'll turn to taffy. Hard taffy. However, sometimes even old lubes will become better with a few minutes of running, but it's borrowed time. Those first few revolutions are tough on the mechanism.
As for the 'running gear', the visible rods and links, yes, I would sparingly lube them. I use a large darning needle with the top of the eye clipped off. It leaves two stub tines which, when dipped in a lube of choice, will pick some of it up. Then it can be delivered precisely using good light and maybe a magnifier like an Opti-Visor.
As for which particular steam engine models: all of my BLI specimens across 12 years ran very well right out of the box. I have a BLI 'Platinum Series' PRR 4-6-2 that is a bit clicky, still after 12 years and many tours around the layout. I think it's a 'piston rod', but can't be sure. Other than that, the only other notable sticky steamer is a Bachmann Spectrum Heavy Mountain. It has run for perhaps three hours now, but it still takes a very high CV2 (V-Start) setting to get it underway at the first speed step. It improves, though, once it has run a bit and the innards are warmed up.
So, in summary, if it takes a lot of juice to get it to move smartly, it might have dried inner lube. But, it wouldn't hurt at all to give the outer works a wee dram before you run it much.
Sometimes an engine will sit for a long time and need more than average in terms of breaking it in again. I used to volunteer for this task back when I was in a club.
I second others' suggestions to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Though probably not relevant to this situation, if no instructions are available, try looking it up online or calling the manufacturer. If this fails, just ease it in. Start by running light on straight track, then add turnouts, curves, and a consist when it feels right. Don't try to force anything.
I've never had to lubricate the running gear itself, but if the manual says to do it, then do it.
If there are problems, try to figure out what is exactly causing them. If your engine derails, run one that you know is reliable on the same track with the same speed and load. If it is the engine causing the issue, check it to make sure everything is assembled correctly.
Many thanks to all of you for the experience and advice on this. It's running smoothly now after a switching session. I do think I will dab oil on, I like the clipped needle method.
All of my locomotives are pretty old, and have been sitting "New In Box" for over a decade. They get a full service prior to operation. I clean the gears and put in new lube.
Then I run the engine on a large loop of Unitrack with lots of different radius curves for a few hours in both directions.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
The "old" advice was to run a new locomotive upside down on the workbench, changing direction every 10 minutes or so, to get the bearings smoothed out. That may not be an issue any longer but it was with the Mantua metal steamers. But it has the advantage that you can listen closely for signs of issues which is harder to do if the engine is running on the layout itself.
Dave Nelson
PS I am also reminded that it used to be that when you bought a new car, you were urged not to go over 50 or so MPH and avoid freeway driving and acceleration for the first 1000 miles AND change the oil after that 1000 miles.
Dave, many years ago, we had a new boat and outboard motor made by Chrysler. The instructions for the motor said to vary the speed, never exeeding a certain top speed, for the first two hours of use. Then, we also had to change the oil at the end of the break-in period.
So far, and due mostly to that high CV2 setting it seems to need/want, my Bachmann heavy mountain is the only one that might benefit from what seems like it will be several more hours of use. So far, it has perhaps a single solid hour in total.
Breaking in new cars...
I remember back in the early 1980s in Cape Coral, our retired next door neighbor bought a Pontiac Catalina as his final lifetime automobile. He was probably in his mid-seventies.
He brought it home from the dealership and was showing it off. He described the break in process he was going to do to make sure it would last.
Driving at speeds varying from 30-45 miles per hour for hours, never staying at the same speed for more than 5 minutes. Then driving at speeds from 45-60 miles per hours following the same rules for a couple more hours.
Then change the oil.
All the other old folks on the block went on about how important break-in was for a new vehicle, but they all had different ideas about how to do it.
I do not recall another conversation I ever heard about vehicle break-in after that.
PRR8259I am speaking from experience as I once had a P2K 2-10-2 that had to be replaced by Walthers after a rod got bent by a screw backing out. Local repair tech did what they could, but it wouldn't run correctly again even after professional repair.
I use Loctite blue 242 threadlocker. It keeps screws from backing out, but require a torch to remove, like the red 271.
Clean the screw/nut with a degreasing cleaner. Apply a small dot of the threadlocker with a toothpick, then assemble. For those cases when a nut is used to hold a truck screw, put the dot inside the nut, making sure it doesn't ooze out the bottom, then run the screw in far enough to allow the wheels to swivel. Broadway Limited uses this attachment process inside their tenders. In those cases I use a slightly longer screw, then put one nut on, tightened just enough to allow the truck to swivel. I place the wire, with an eye connector on that screw, then put another nut on to act as a jamb nut.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
You need to be EXTEMELY cautious about using Loc-Tite on any model with plastic parts. I would never take that chance.
Tamiya makes a good plastic safe thread locker for models.