Hi all,
A few years ago, I bought an Intermountain LaserWorks kit for PRR watch boxes and a tool shed. It seems like most other laser cut wood kits with engraved plywood walls, roof sections, etc., and seperate windows and all. I'd store it in plastic zip-loc bag, and I'd made the mistake of keeping one of those tiny moisture absorbing packets in the bag and upon opening it I think a year ago found many of the wood sheets holding parts had warped. Mostly the wall and roof ones. The doors, trim, and windows frets didn't warp much. I have the parts out of the plastic bag and put heavy things on the pieces to hopefully help the warping. Are there other things that would help? I'm thinking when building the models to use plenty of strip wood and plastic for bracing. Also, would it be better to attach the bracing before painting and than use primer, wood sealers, etc.?
Thank You
Alvie
Press the items between sheets of paper towel that are damp. NOT WET...damp. Let them dry a bit if you get them too wet. A damp towel, even a face cloth, on both sides of the item, flat on a countertop, then put a couple of dictionaries on top.
Next day or two, you should be good to go.
ALWAYS glue the bracing before you prime and paint any model regardless of material, otherwise, you'll have to sand the primer/paint area where you have to glue the parts. If you don't, you'll find yourself doing it later, when the glue sticks to the paint and comes apart.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Thank you Selector,
I'll try that out. Going to be looking forward to getting these models put together!
Thank you! I figured as such. I haven't primed or done anything to the walls. All the parts are still on the frets.
Simiar to what Selector suggested, I coat my wooden kit parts with Minwax PreStain on both and then press them for a couple of days.
The prestain does not block glues, so the walls do not need to have the bracing installed before pressing them.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
selector Press the items between sheets of paper towel that are damp. NOT WET...damp. Let them dry a bit if you get them too wet. A damp towel, even a face cloth, on both sides of the item, flat on a countertop, then put a couple of dictionaries on top. Next day or two, you should be good to go.
SeeYou190I coat my wooden kit parts with Minwax PreStain
They didn't teach about preconditioner in my 1966 shop class nor did I notice that all the wood I stained in the next 54 years suffered from blotchinss.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddyThey didn't teach about preconditioner in my 1966 shop class nor did I notice that all the wood I stained in the next 54 years suffered from blotchinss.
I have never actually stained a piece of wood for furniture or carpentry. I am a painter, and I paint everything white... no creativity at all.
I use stain as a hobby supply only.
rrebellWhats a dictionary, LOL.
If you can't find a dictionary, a phone book will work.
It's an Oxford or a Concise English. A Russian would do, or maybe a Gujarati.
The really big ones weigh about ten pounds. They smell like library.
Don't ask...!
SeeYou190If you can't find a dictionary, a phone book will work.
Piles of old newspapers on top of shirt cardboards would work, too.
It's an Oxford or a Concise English.
SeeYou190 BigDaddy They didn't teach about preconditioner in my 1966 shop class nor did I notice that all the wood I stained in the next 54 years suffered from blotchinss. I have never actually stained a piece of wood for furniture or carpentry. I am a painter, and I paint everything white... no creativity at all. I use stain as a hobby supply only. rrebell Whats a dictionary, LOL. If you can't find a dictionary, a phone book will work. -Kevin
BigDaddy They didn't teach about preconditioner in my 1966 shop class nor did I notice that all the wood I stained in the next 54 years suffered from blotchinss.
rrebell Whats a dictionary, LOL.
What’s a phone book?
maxmanWhat’s a phone book?
A used college text book seems to be doing a good job so far.