Over a month ago J&J (Jeff) direct messaged me about this. Sorry for the delay Jeff, I can't get my email notifications (or the dm reply box) to work. I never saw your query until now.
I was never able to glue the coupling back onto the driveshaft, it would not hold. I asked Athearn for a new one in 2011 and they sent me two. The loco runs fine to this day.
Note that although this loco is well-built and one of the smoothest and quietest ever manufactured, it is full of minor defects that many other threads have discussed, which include how to dissassemble the boiler, a formidable but not impossible task. -Rob
Mister Mikado......it is full of minor defects that many other threads have discussed, which include how to dissassemble the boiler, a formidable but not impossible task. -Rob
If you're speaking of removing the boiler shell from the mechanism/chassis, it's a pretty simple procedure, as outlined HERE.Beyond that, the rest of it deals with balancing the locomotive in order to improve its pulling power, also not terribly complicated, but yielding good results.
These locos were very smooth runners, but had difficulty even when merely trying to move their own shadows.
Wayne
Thank you for that link, Wayne. You have created the most complete instruction manual for popping this loco I have ever seen in 20 years. Outstanding, generous work.
I described the disassembly as formidable based on my first time-- I was sure the boiler would snap in half from lifting it up so far. Soon as I slid it forward it came right off.
I had to direct-wire the chassis wires--the lugs were so flimsy they broke leaving many with a dead loco. I removed the umbilical sleeve as it was derailing the tender. Then the driveshaft connector snapped from minimal use. Athearn replaced it. I added weight everywhere and it pulls better. There's more in all the threads, but you covered a lot for sure. She's still a fine loco all said. -Rob