I have had some issues with the Evans Design HobbyCal decal paper. Yes, the images look really nice and reasonably sharp when printed on my ink-jet printer, and the fact that the ink doen't seem to run regardless of sealer or not is cool, but the decals don't always adhere to the model surface as they should (usual precautions - the model surface is cleaned and I followed the steps as proscribed on the instructions), but the decals would be hit or miss that they would adhere (smaller decals in particular, as that is exactly what I want to use it for).I actually did talk with the owners of Evans at the Amherst Model show a few years back about this issue (brought samples of the printed decals as well, thinking maybe it was a bad batch), and basically they said maybe make sure the model surface is not supper smooth (the opposite of most decal advice) and if that didn't work, use a thinned solution of glue - great, I'm making stickers now, not decals.I thiink they import the decal paper, so perhaps later batches work as expected? I can't say.
You're thinking of the Evans Designs decal paper. I have used this decal paper with excellent results. The special coating on the paper means it absorbs and locks in the printer ink with no need for a fixative clear coat. Of the dozens of decals I have made using the Evan Designs decal paper, I have managed to smear one (1) decal. This was a round Southern Pacific decal I was trying to apply to the nose of a Black Widow liveried EMD F7 loco. For some reason I couldn't get this decal on straight (it kept drying slightly rotated) and I had to re-wet it several times using Solvaset. After about the fifth time applying Solvaset, the ink finally smeared. A second decal went on straight the first time.
The paper only comes with a white decal background. However, there are ways to treat the decal paper to create clear background decals whenever needed. Basically, use only water based clears over these decals if you want the background to remain white (the background turns clear when you wet the decal but returns to white as it dries). Use of solvent based or aerosal clears over these decals will permanently turn the decal background clear. This means you can make both white and clear background decals from the same sheet of decal paper.
You can make white/light color lettering on this decal paper by using a colored background and white/light colored text. It may take a bit of trial and error to find the perfect color match between the model and the colored decal background but it can be done. Since the printer can't print white, it prints nothing where the text occurs and the white background of decal paper shows through creating white lettering! I have found that applying such decals as printed directly to the model creates lettering that appears slightly faded. If you want the lettering to pop, or if the lettering is very small, it is best to paint the area of the model white where the decal will be applied.
Another advantage to this decal paper is that you can use regular lighter fluid as a setting solution (much cheaper than Solvaset or Micro Sol). The only downside to this decal paper is that it is a little thick compared to commercially made decals. I get around this problem by making the decal the same size as the panel to which I am applying the decal. This way, the decal edges look like part of the panel seams.
The last time I bought some, a package of five (5), 8 1/2" by 11" sheets cost around $20. The larger size sheets are yet another advantage.
Hornblower
I believe that there is a brand of inkjet decal paper that does not require any fixing agent or additional prep after printing and before applying. Anyone aware of the brand?
Thank you