Laying flex-track

[Anonymous]

I have just begun laying a little test layout using flex track for the first time instead of snap track or sectional track. I find it easy to work with except for one problem I'm having: When I have a joint in a curve, I can not get the ends of the 2 tracks to make a nice, smooth connection. It seems that each track tries to "straighten out", so instead of having a nice curve, I have a "point" in the curve. I'd be interested in suggestions as to how to make the mid curve connections smoother and better!

Thanks,
John Lardino
Woodstock, IL

[Anonymous]

Hi John,

I just learned this trick last year... When laying flex on a curve stop a few inches from the end of the section - so the remaining track sticks straight out from the curve at a tangent. Then connect the next section of flex track and solder the two pieces together while they are in a straight line. After the solder has set you can go back to laying the flex along your planned curve. The soldered joint will be smooth and without kinks. Oh yes, don't forget to clean the inside of the soldered joints, and the railheads of all flux that may have flowed away from the joint.

Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun.
Dwayne A.

[Anonymous]

John what size curve are you doing. I found out that if I try to make my curve with a full sec of track that my next sec would not be in the mid of curve but in futher so it would not have a point. good luck.

[dknelson]

I have had the same problem. Here is another little tip. There is an outfit -- is it Baumgarten? -- that makes tracklaying stuff and jigs and you can buy an entire set of metal tooks that fit between the rails (in HO) in various radii -- marked on the piece. They also make tangents. You can "force" this along the flex track to straighten it out or to make it assume the curve of a given radius. If you place that at the joint it should help force the joint into the radius you want, provided it is a radius available from this outfit. Sorry if my description is not clear. These are pieces of metal about 6 inches long in varius radius that fit exactly between the rails
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

That makes sense! I wondered if that technique would be strong enough, though. I guess so, huh? I am working in N scale, so I can see where it would be advantageuos to be a good solderer...I will have a lot of learning to look forward to, as the only soldering I have ever done was when I installed copper pipes in my house for a fire sprinkler system...Now that I think about THAT project - they never leaked! I can also see where it will be very important to REALLY clean up the inside of the rail to avoid crashes...Any tips to slodering out there??

Thanks for the advice!

Your friend,
John Lardino

[Anonymous]

I had started that way and if worked well for curves of up to like 14" radius that had transition curves. I am working with what I believe to be Atlas N80 track in 30" sections for now. I am considering Shinohara N70 for my actual layout, though. I know there are 36" pieces of track out there, maybe it's even the Shin stuff...This current project is a test layout to get comfortable with laying the flex track as well as to test various curve radii with some of the rolling stock I plan to operate. I have got some con-cor bi-level budd pass. cars which our local Metra (Chicago) lines run - they're 85 footers - and pull them with a loco around. I have 2 ovals on a 4x8-outside has 8", 10", 12", 15+5/16" curves, then the inside has 14" (which is actually the inside parallel curve to the 15 5/16" curve to test THAT), 16" 18" and 20" curves. While I don't plan on using anything smaller than 14", I have found that the cars will reliably negotiate all but the 8" curve at various speeds. All in all I think the test has been worthwhile, and I would actually recommend it to anyone who is having trouble deciding what minimum radius to implement! It really is nice to be able to SEE the curves themselves and how the cars look and operate on the various sized curves!

Thanks for the help!!

Your Friend,
John Lardino

[Anonymous]

Dave, do you know if the have anything like this for N sacale? Dwayne A. had a good suggestion, too, which I'm going to try. I just wonder how many ties I'm going to melt before I become proficient at the soldering thing!!! I guess in case I light up the basement, good thing I'm a fireman!

Thanks for your idea, and please let me know if you know of anything offhand for N scale like what you mentioned!! It'd be appreciated!

Your Friend,
John Lardino

[Anonymous]

Hello again, John.

I should have been more complete in my first post...

When I solder flex track I usually have about 1/2" of rail clear of the ties. You need this in any event to allow the joiners to slide on. Don't bother with a soldering gun - the heat is uncontrollable. I use a 25W soldering iron from Radio Shack and 3/32" solder also from RShack. Apply heat to the inside of the rail joint and when the rail is hot enough apply the solder to the outside. When applying heat I rest the iron on the ridge where rail joiner meets the rail web. You want the solder to flow into the space between the rail joiner and the rail, and make a nice smooth junction on the outside of the rail web.

The cooled solder should be shiny. If it's dull or looks crackled, the joint moved when the solder was cooling; reheat the joint until the solder is liquid again, then allow the joint to cool properly.

After all is said and done I touch up the joint with a needle file and an eraser to remove any excess solder and flux from the rail head. I've also recently learned that once the rail is painted (weathered) the shiny solder joints are indistinguishable.

Finally, this method can be used to attach feeder wires to the track, as well. I use #28AWG solid tinned wire pinched from the telco's scrap cable bin.

Hope that helps,
Later, Dwayne A.

[dknelson]

I'm sorry John but I cannot say I am very aware of N scale products -- check the Walthers catalog of course but I cannot recall seeing anything like that for N (and since I have a small amount of Hon2 1/2 stuff I think I'd notice it).
Sounds like a manufacturing opportunity here for someone!
In theory perhaps it is not impossible to make something like this yourself. The idea would be to nail down some track to the radius you want and somehow put a piece of wood or styrene between the rails and file it to shape. The nice thing about the metal ones in HO and that you can really FORCE it along the track and thereby force the track to assume the correct radius.

good luck, buddy
dave

[BR60103]

A British firm called Tracksetta used to make them for N and HO. Don't know if they're still in business. I sold my N gauge ones off a long time ago.
Even with the gauges, the last bit of rail springs straight. You might have to bend it using pliers.
Put a heat sink of some sort just beyond where you're soldering. A big hunk of metal, track gauges, wet paper towels. You can get soldering heatsinks from electronic supply store or hobby shops.
Try to get a pair of rail gauges to hold the rails in gauge while the ties are soft.
If all else fails, about 20 spikes will pu***he rail into position. 8-)
David

[dknelson]

BY the way I checked and the manufacturer of the track curving product is Cajon Rails, not Baumbarten
sorry for any confusion
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

David,
Thanks...Heat sinks and a boatload of spikes...Well, I got the soldering iron and solder and I've been staring at them for a while, trying to assess my adversary...What kind of solder is best for this application. The stuff I selected is (I think) 40tin/60 lead rosin core. Is this good or is there a different coumpound you would recommend?

Thanks,
John

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I'll try to look them up!

Your Friend,
John

[Anonymous]

Dwayne,
Thanks for the guidance! I actuall stopped @ Menard's this morning and picked up a soldering iron. It's 30W, so I hope that is OK for this application. I also picked up some solder. Criminy! There's like 676 types of the stuff! I selected 40 tin/ 60 lead rosin core. I believe it is 3/32. I will probably make my first forray into the actual process tomorrow, so I'll let you know how it goes! Your guidance is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!

Your Friend,
John