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Replacement parts for a Proto 1000 RDC

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  • Member since
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  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Replacement parts for a Proto 1000 RDC
Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, October 13, 2020 1:07 AM

Hi gang,

Does anyone know if there are replacement parts available for a Proto 1000 RDC?

I just bought one on eBay and it is in excellent condition but the passenger steps and the pilot are missing on one end. The coupler is also broken off so I suspect that the model has been dropped. I have asked the seller to see if he can find the part(s), but if he doesn't have them, are there Proto 1000 parts available?

I'm not too worried if the original parts are not available. I figure that I can fabricate the steps from .010 styrene, and I can modify a pilot to fit.

Thanks,

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
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  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
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Posted by gmpullman on Tuesday, October 13, 2020 1:44 AM

 

I've got a spare you're welcome to have, Dave. It is a B&O RDC-2. 

 IMG_2927B&Ofix by Edmund, on Flickr

 

Cheers, Ed

  • Member since
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  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, October 13, 2020 1:47 AM

Hi Ed,

That is very generous of you!

I'll send you a PM to get the details.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
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Posted by gmpullman on Tuesday, October 13, 2020 1:55 AM

Sounds good. Pretty sure I still have your address Yes

Glad to help you out AND make a generous donation to our Postal systems Embarrassed 

Win = win Smile, Wink & Grin   Ed

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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Tuesday, October 13, 2020 4:24 AM

For me, this thread is interesting timing!

I was just looking at a pair of LL P1K RDC's that I've had stored for a few years. Issue is the windows. In my efforts to disassemble the units (to paint strip and metalize them into the NH RR scheme) I broke some of the windows (yes, I was careful but not enough!).  No one produces flush fitting glazing for them and due to their unique sizes, glazing from Rivarossi and Walthers units don't fit at all.

The Rapido units are beautiful and superior in every way, yet for the price and the time that they were produced, the LL P1K units are heavy, attractive smooth runners and were (still are) a big leap ahead of the Athearn BB units  RDC's that were tooled back in the 70's.

I may have to take the Con Cor style approach and install clear plastic strips as glazing (which I would prefer not to). 

This is a P1K RDC shell that I stripped and metalized a few years back:

This is what I'm targeting to model, although the 1960's version:

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
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  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, October 13, 2020 9:40 PM

AntonioFP45
I was just looking at a pair of LL P1K RDC's that I've had stored for a few years. Issue is the windows. In my efforts to disassemble the units (to paint strip and metalize them into the NH RR scheme) I broke some of the windows (yes, I was careful but not enough!).  No one produces flush fitting glazing for them and due to their unique sizes, glazing from Rivarossi and Walthers units don't fit at all.

Hi Antonio,

I may be able to help solve your problem, at least partially. I just sent you a PM.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,411 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Wednesday, October 14, 2020 5:01 AM

Hello Dave,

Yes to your PM, Thank you!

But it is frustrating  that I've tried replying to your PM and for some odd reason, it won't let me! I've refreshed the page and, still, it won't accept any of my key strokes.

I'm hoping that it is a temporary glitch with the forum's software.

I'll wait a few hours and try again.

 

hon30critter
 
AntonioFP45
I was just looking at a pair of LL P1K RDC's that I've had stored for a few years. Issue is the windows. In my efforts to disassemble the units (to paint strip and metalize them into the NH RR scheme) I broke some of the windows (yes, I was careful but not enough!).  No one produces flush fitting glazing for them and due to their unique sizes, glazing from Rivarossi and Walthers units don't fit at all.

 

Hi Antonio,

I may be able to help solve your problem, at least partially. I just sent you a PM.

Dave

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by BigDaddy on Wednesday, October 14, 2020 7:34 AM

Antonio, don't use Firefox to try to send a pm from the forum. Chrome works.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

By the Chesapeake Bay

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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Wednesday, October 14, 2020 9:09 AM

Guys, thank you for the advice! One of the reasons why I still enjoy this forum.

Much appreciated.

 

High Greens YesBig Smile

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by Lastspikemike on Wednesday, October 14, 2020 10:18 AM

Not directly on topic but I have a question about these locomotives. 

I bought one and the geartrain in the drive truck is quite noisy. I tested 6 identical units and bought the quietest one. 

I've taken the gear retainer off and oiled the geartrain from below. Better but still growls. The sound is unlike the sounds from the very same truck design on other Proto 1000 and some proto 2000 locomotives I run. The C liner is virtually silent by comparison, as good as the best Proto 2000 trucks. 

Its ok in a way because these dayliners did sound very different with their small displacement diesels and mechanical transmission.  

Do they all do this right out of the box or is there a repair?

Alyth Yard

Canada

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Posted by gmpullman on Wednesday, October 14, 2020 1:34 PM

Lastspikemike
Do they all do this right out of the box or is there a repair?

Mine have always been a little noisy, especially compared with the usual L-L/Proto diesels. 

Northwest Short Line offers a regearing kit (mainly to increase speed) and at one time I was tempted to buy several but that was right about when Rapido had announced their RDC so I replaced the whole fleet.

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    June 2020
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Posted by Lastspikemike on Wednesday, October 14, 2020 1:51 PM

gmpullman

 

 
Lastspikemike
Do they all do this right out of the box or is there a repair?

 

Mine have always been a little noisy, especially compared with the usual L-L/Proto diesels. 

Northwest Short Line offers a regearing kit (mainly to increase speed) and at one time I was tempted to buy several but that was right about when Rapido had announced their RDC so I replaced the whole fleet.

Good Luck, Ed

 

My fleet of one RDC3 will be supplemented by a new Rapido RDC3 when they arrive. My plan is for two sets of some locomotives: one DC only suitable for young railroaders who may not fully appreciate the detail of a Rapido model and the second DCC for me. 

That way way the grandsons can learn all about the hobby without me worrying about how skilled they are. 

Alyth Yard

Canada

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  • From: Good ol' USA
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Friday, October 16, 2020 4:27 AM

Perhaps I'm one of the fortunate modelers in that both of the RDC's that I have run generally quiet. The sound that the motors make, imho, is just slightly higher than that of a Roco powered Atlas diesel of the 70's which had a rather pleasant "hum". 

I'm wondering if, perhaps, the old "Athearn Blue Box" trick of applying tooth polish, or some semi-abrasive cream, to the gears and running the chassis for 30 minutes to an hour would help burnish the gears?  With the BB units this method, in many cases, helped to quiet down the infamous "BB growl".

 

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Friday, October 16, 2020 4:39 AM

AntonioFP45
I'm wondering if, perhaps, the old "Athearn Blue Box" trick of applying tooth polish, or some semi-abrasive cream, to the gears and running the chassis for 30 minutes to an hour would help burnish the gears?  With the BB units this method, in many cases, helped to quiet down the infamous "BB growl".

Hi AntonioFP45,

As long as you do a thorough job of cleaning the gears afterwards, I don't think you have anything to lose.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,411 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Friday, October 16, 2020 9:40 PM

Thanks Dave. I'll plan on examining the drives in both units since I'm taking the DCC route (and am considering sound) anyway. For anyone that's curious, the prototypes came with Detroit-110 series engines. Upon listening, they sounded incredibly similar to GMC transit buses, which were equipped with Detroit 6V-71 series power plants. 

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PAINT SHOP:

One aspect that I appreciate about these units is that the paint comes off of them so easily after a soaking in either 91% alcohol or "Super Clean".

For metalizing, this is the basic appearance the I'm targeting. Well taken care of with light weathering.

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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