This question was posed in Weekend Photo Fun. I decided it was best answered in a new thread.
Ringo58 Is brass just more detailed than plastic, or are there other advantages?
Most of the brass freight car models I add to my collection are not as well detailed as a Proto-2,000 or Intermountain freight car.
I generally purchase a brass model of a freight car for one of two reasons, sometimes both.
1) A model that is not available any other way.
2) The plastic models are too fragile, and brass is a better option.
There are some models that are only available in brass, or as resin kits from Funaro & Camerlengo, Sunshine, Westerfield, or similar. I do not have enough time to build all the resin car kits I have already (and three more are on order from Yarmouth), so brass models can be ready to run options for unusual models.
This brass 12,000 gallon 3 dome tank car is available as a brass model only.
The Overland brass 5 bay covered hopper is a PENNSYLVANIA prototype that was only otherwise available as a very difficult to build resin kit.
After I purchased this one, BLI released it a better model in plastic.
This THUNDER BAY WESTERN boxcar is a brass model of a rare Pullman Standard prototype that predates the PS-1 boxcar. This has never been released in plastic.
This high walkway tank car that I painted for GERN INDUSTRIES is another model only available in brass.
My tank cars are almost all brass. This is all about durability. The Kadee tank car is a magnificent model, but there is almost no way to pick it up without breaking something. Same with Proto-2,000 models. I have five of these 8,000 gallon tank cars painted for the STRATTON AND GILLETTE built up from Proto-2,000 kits, and they need very careful handling. I replaced some of the plastic grab irons with wire, but other parts are still quite fragile.
Brass tank cars, like this one from Overland, are far more durable and can be handled easily.
All of my cabooses are brass models. I did not want anything that looked "cookie cutter", and I also wanted all my cabooses to be center cupola.
I hope this answers the question.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hi Kevin,
I'm afraid that I'm not into brass. I understand what you are saying about certain models only being available in brass, and that brass models are more durable than some plastic models, but I'm sorry to say that I am just not interested.
For one thing, I lack the enthusiasm to focus on highly specific models. I really don't care if my models are not quite prototypical as long as they don't look like toys. Rather than buying brass, I am much more interested in buying vintage cars which were built from kits in the 1940s, 50s and 60s. I have four Star Line stock cars which are among my favourite pieces. The kits were produced in the late 1940s and whoever built them was a craftsman for sure! I had to make a few repairs, and I painted them for the Algoma Eastern Railroad which ran from the Manitoulin Island to Sudbury in northern Ontario. I know that the AER ran stock cars, but I could care less if my restored models match the prototypes.
I did buy two Alco brass switchers made by Alco Models because I thought that the price was fair and I wanted to introduce myself to brass. Unfortunately the detail is rather 'shallow' if I can use that term. They obviously aren't examples of the better brass products.
For now, I will stick to buying vintage models.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I have bought 2 pieces of brass, an Sn2 Forney and an Sn2 passenger car. I bought these because they were the only RTR locomotive and passenger car in Sn2.
I am not adverse to buying brass if it fits a very specific need that can only be met otherwise by scratchbuilding. I'm not adverse to scratchbuilding, I just don't have the time to do a lot of it.
In S scale there is only one company importing brass and they do mostly locomotives.
Paul
brass is usually a bit more money, but has weight and durability ....
especially locomtoves, the hand rails and small parts hold on exceptionaly well ..
wvg_cabrass...has weight and durability ....
The weight part doesn't work all that well for narrowgauge. Brass passenger cars, sort of, but a 4-car train is all my K-28 can handle on 3%.
Throwing a brass freight car into a train can mess up getting to the top of the hill if you restrict grades by max car count and normally everything is plastic or wood. It can be like adding two extra cars.
I have a few special cars that are brass, a couple of double-dome tank cars and a bulkhead flat, plus a DP center flat. All are pretty rare cars and no morer than one is likely to be in any train.
The exception are cabooses, where I do have a few brass ones, again because of uniqueness mostly.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
While I have a few brass locomotives (all steam) none are as-built. I modify the ones for my freelance roads in whatever manner best suits my tastes and needs. Those representing real prototypes are modified to represent specific locos of which I have photos....the model is usually a good starting point, but some added effort can lift it above what it originally was.
As for brass freight cars, I've not seen one suitable to my layout's era which impressed me enough to buy it, regardless of the price. If it were a car that I wanted, I can build it myself, in styrene and metal, for less money, but equal (or better) in detail, and not fragile either.
Likewise for kit-built or r-t-r cars that are fragile - all can be modified fairly easily to be more durable, but equally well-detailed. Many of the ones I own were bought cheaply because the previous owner either botched the kit-build or mishandled the r-t-r ones.
Of course, not everyone wants to put in such effort, but it's something which appeals to me.
Wayne
Haven't found many models in brass that there is nothing similar in plastic. I do have some wood cars that I have never seen in plastic or brass.
rrebellHaven't found many models in brass that there is nothing similar in plastic.
I only buy brass freight cars, other than tank cars, when they are unique one-off models that I will not need multiples of.
Digging into my unpainted models...
Like this NEW HAVEN insulated and heated boxcar, note the vents on the sides. It also has an underfloor heater that is not visible in this picture.
And this SANTA FE prototype BX-6 boxcar. This is a "must-have-one-of" model for me.
Those are nice models Kevin. I can see the attraction.
doctorwayneOf course, not everyone wants to put in such effort, but it's something which appeals to me.
OvermodAnd appeals still more to those of us that love to watch the effort being put in, and then admire the results...
I have countless times put in such effort and admired the results. I often share the efforts in Weekend Photo Fun.
You are always invited to do the same. I would love to see some of your models that you have put effort into and admire.
I go with "1) A model that is not available any other way."
My one brass car in almost 60 years of modeling (1964-2020) is a D&LW - M&E bobber caboose I first saw and fell in love with a Lucius Beebe book that had a chapter on cabeese.
http://www.whippanyrailwaymuseum.net/exhibits/equipment/cabooses/m-a-e-qbobberq
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/empire-midland-dl-lackawanna-e-wheel-253560602
I will go with the "1) A model that is not available any other way." as well.
I ended up breaking down and buying a brass caboose. This caboose had never been mass produced in plastic and it's one that fits perfectly in the era that I model and the region. (I do need to patch it out a bit to fit exactly one I want but I haven't gotten brave enough to do it yet.)
FRRYKidI ended up breaking down and buying a brass caboose
Be careful.
Brass cabooses can be a very alluring temptress.
I decided on this caboose as my "standard" and figured I would need ten of them. It only took me about two years to acquire all ten. I thought this would be a decade-long search.
One of them just got listed on BrassTrains Dot Com for $75.00 today! It is tempting me even though I have absolutely no need for another one.
Along the way, a few other center cupola cabooses caught my eye, and I bought single models of a few of them. I already shared pictures of the painted PENNSYLVANIA N6-B and the New Haven NE-5.
This NICKEL PLATE prototype caboose also could not be refused:
Then I saw this ILLINOIS CENTRAL "OSB" caboose. I do not know what OSB stands for. This thing is so cool, I had to buy it.
It does not have a bay window, even though it looks kind of like a bay window caboose.
Then, one day while perusing BrassTrains Dot Com, I was seduced by this beauty. Not a center cupola like all other SGRR cabooses, so I might just paint it for a short line that connects in Centerville or something.
Watch yourself. There are temptations out there.
Not planning on it. One is quite enough.
SeeYou190I do not know what OSB stands for.
Usually "Oriented Strand Board" but in this case perhaps Outside Braced?
SeeYou190There are temptations out there.
I wonder about the sliding door on the Lambert caboose being directly under the cupola? I'll have to look for a photo of a Sierra #9 combine-caboose to verify. I wonder how the seats could be arranged in the cupola with the door directly below?
I, too, am a push-over for a brass caboose now and then, along with the occasional freight car.
NKP_Overland by Edmund, on Flickr
PRR_ND-1-19d by Edmund, on Flickr
A couple of unique troop sleepers have found their way into the roster somehow...
IMG_4038_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
For brass rolling stock my primary market is in the passenger car category of which many unique cars that will likely never be produced in plastic are my targets.
Cheers, Ed
gmpullmanUsually "Oriented Strand Board" but in this case perhaps Outside Braced?
Outside Braced is probably it. I googled it over and over after I bought the caboose, and Oriented Strand Board was all I found, and it is obviously not made of that stuff.
I usually see Outside Braced as O.B., but brass manufacturers have had labeling issues many times, like that monster "4-Wheel Drive" PENNSYLVANIA caboose you have. I'll bet that comes in handy for traversing unpaved trackage.
SeeYou190 like that monster "4-Wheel Drive" PENNSYLVANIA caboose you have.
I actually have one labeled "Eight Wheel Drive" Really great traction with that one!
PRR_ND-1-19b by Edmund, on Flickr
re: Sierra No. 9
Sierra_9 by Edmund, on Flickr
Never say never Cheers, Ed
SeeYou190 FRRYKid I ended up breaking down and buying a brass caboose Be careful. Brass cabooses can be a very alluring temptress. I decided on this caboose as my "standard" and figured I would need ten of them. It only took me about two years to acquire all ten. I thought this would be a decade-long search. One of them just got listed on BrassTrains Dot Com for $75.00 today! It is tempting me even though I have absolutely no need for another one. Along the way, a few other center cupola cabooses caught my eye, and I bought single models of a few of them. I already shared pictures of the painted PENNSYLVANIA N6-B and the New Haven NE-5. This NICKEL PLATE prototype caboose also could not be refused: Then I saw this ILLINOIS CENTRAL "OSB" caboose. I do not know what OSB stands for. This thing is so cool, I had to buy it. It does not have a bay window, even though it looks kind of like a bay window caboose. Then, one day while perusing BrassTrains Dot Com, I was seduced by this beauty. Not a center cupola like all other SGRR cabooses, so I might just paint it for a short line that connects in Centerville or something. Watch yourself. There are temptations out there. -Kevin
FRRYKid I ended up breaking down and buying a brass caboose
Kevin, that NKP caboose better not be painted in anythung other than NKP or I will visit you with lacquer thinner in hand and Aluminu, Red and Black paints so it is finished properly.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
gmpullmanI actually have one labeled "Eight Wheel Drive" Really great traction with that one!
That makes me wonder about the terrain where they were operating these cabooses that such a radical upgrade was needed.
dti406Kevin, that NKP caboose better not be painted in anythung other than NKP or I will visit you with lacquer thinner in hand and Aluminu, Red and Black paints so it is finished properly.
Hmmm...
I better think twice before I share a picture of the finished model in Weekend Photo Fun in a year or two!
On the other hand, it might be worth it just to get you to come down for a visit.
I'll bet I could learn a lot from you by watching you repaint a caboose model.
Everytime I bought something in brass, it was soon followed by mass produced plastic:
Greenville 65 ' mill gons from Pecos River Brass---Exact Rail in MP, SP, CNW.
North American Pressure Discharge covered hoppers by Overland Models---Spring Mills Depot.
New Haven NE-6 cabooses from Overland Models---Atlas
SP C50-7, 8, and 9 cabooses by Overland Models---Athearn Genesis
Bi-level and tri-level autoracks from Overland---Walthers and Intermountain
I no longer buy brass!
SeeYou190 And this SANTA FE prototype BX-6 boxcar. This is a "must-have-one-of" model for me. -Kevin
Westerfield offers the Bx-6 as a resin kit, but I'll be scratchbuilding a couple of them in styrene, along with a Bx-3, and an Fe-t.
Here's a kitbashed/scratchbuilt Seaboard B6...
I did make at least one major mistake, but didn't discover it until cleaning-up the work area after the car was painted and lettered. I'm not going to attempt to correct it, as the build was merely to test the use of aluminum foil tape as a sheathing method.
I'm satisfied that the tape is a suitable method to represent lapped steel panels.
doctorwayneWesterfield offers the Bx-6 as a resin kit, but I'll be scratchbuilding a couple of them in styrene, along with a Bx-3, and an Fe-t.
I have quite a collection of Westerfield, Sunshine, Funaro & Camerlengo, and other resin kits already waiting to be built. Plus, I have more on the way from Yarmouth.
Yarmouth just keeps on making new kits of unique boxcars and I need to buy them.
Finding something in brass allows me to get that BX-6 on the rails and build another resin kit in that same time.
Pretty soon (I can almost feel it) I will be building my layout, and then the freight car fleet will become a side-project rather than the primary objective.
I was very fortunate to complete the approximately 150 units I got done in the last three years.
SeeYou190 Pretty soon (I can almost feel it) I will be building my layout, and then the freight car fleet will become a side-project rather than the primary objective. I was very fortunate to complete the approximately 150 units I got done in the last three years. -Kevin
yes soon the struggle with the division of time between layout construction and model building will be upon you. It is a good thing, but can be frustrating as you look at the soon to be decades old pile of kits sit there on the shelf as you build the layout. I regularly switch off between these activities to keep things interesting.
Your 150 nice cars will come in handy when you place them on your recently built scenery and have an instant awaesome train scene - you gotta start painting some more of those brass locos to complete the set...
I generally avoid brass rolling stock with the exception of locomotives, cabooses and passenger cars. I avoid freight cars especially due to the extra weight and frankly most modern plastic high-detail cars are on par or better than most brass freight cars out there. There haven't been any must haves to lead me to brass freight cars yet...( oops I do have some brass log bunks)
The brass passenger cars I own are ridiculously heavy - double header on level track LOL!! I remove the interiors to cut down on weight. Some cabooses are brass because I was looking for accurate models of iconic cabooses for the prototypes I model.
Brass locomotives fit into the not available elsewhere category - finicky but accurate and some pretty cool models not available in plastic or die cast.
Have fun,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
SeeYou190 gmpullman Usually "Oriented Strand Board" but in this case perhaps Outside Braced? Outside Braced is probably it. I googled it over and over after I bought the caboose, and Oriented Strand Board was all I found, and it is obviously not made of that stuff. I usually see Outside Braced as O.B., but brass manufacturers have had labeling issues many times, like that monster "4-Wheel Drive" PENNSYLVANIA caboose you have. I'll bet that comes in handy for traversing unpaved trackage. -Kevin
gmpullman Usually "Oriented Strand Board" but in this case perhaps Outside Braced?
I suspect that OSB stands for Outside Steel Braced in this case.
mlehman...I suspect that OSB stands for Outside Steel Braced in this case.
That sounds reasonable, Mike, although nowadays, the more "correct" useage appears to be "single-sheathed".
Why?Because you want to, that's why.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
You seem quite knowledgeable about brass trains. I've acquired a couple locomotives and am looking for someone to paint them...? Advice? Anything...lol
Freight cars I cannot see the desire (for myself) of spending the money unless, as has been pointed out, it's something unavailable otherwise.
Over the last year I have bought 3 brass locomotives - 2 Key and 1 Challenger Imports - and I am delighted with them, but like most I am locomotive-centric and those models were not done by the usual suspects in diecast or plastic.
If it a question of detail really only the very late stuff is better than the much cheaper offerings from the mainstream guys, but then there are some nice buys in the desiel arena from Overland that whilst not just as cheap as the plastic are not a million miles off either.
A common "problem" with me is I am looking at stuff on a monitor which has the HO scale product magnified to ludicrous proportions whereas in the flesh the anomalies are invisible to my middle-aged eyes.
One final thing, and i can already hear the cries of derision, I have oddly enough just done a comparison between a late model GS4 from Overland that has just come up and the MTH I just had delivered. Hand on heart if someone said here are 2 models both $100 take either I am not sure which is the better. Seriously. Never mind the 5x price differential.
I know people go on about the fragility of some plastic locomotives but I have never had that issue. I do see some reviewers grabbing the new toy out of its box as though it's the jack out the car hard-coupled tender haning at 40 degrees etc.
After all that incoherence buy what fits your needs. Buy what you like.