Thanks for the thread UnionPacific8444, one of the SD9s I was looking at was an Athearn needing a new can motor and I had been putting it off. Since I had it on my workbench I did it to it. I don’t remotor any Protos, one more Athearn SD9 remotor and then my Proto SDs are going to eBay.This one is the proud owner of a Mabuchi FK280SA motor. I don’t plan on running my SDs on DCC so I wired this one for DC only operation. I have been wiring all of my locomotives for DCC with the standard 8 pin NMRA connector. At 83 I’ll never get around to running any my diesels other than my E7s on DCC so no need. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Lastspikemike mbinsewi Proto 1000 & 2000 are Life Like. Mike. Walthers acquired Lifelike (in the year 2000's, not sure exactiy when) but use only the "Proto" part of the name for their top line models. I wonder if this locomotive might be a Walthers or have a Walthers shell on it?
mbinsewi Proto 1000 & 2000 are Life Like. Mike.
Proto 1000 & 2000 are Life Like.
Mike.
Walthers acquired Lifelike (in the year 2000's, not sure exactiy when) but use only the "Proto" part of the name for their top line models.
I wonder if this locomotive might be a Walthers or have a Walthers shell on it?
Walthers bought LifeLike in 2005, it took several years for the Proto2000 name change to WalthersProto.
Sheldon
I have the same Proto2000 6921, in fact I just had the shell off a few days ago to fix the headlights.
On mine, to take the shell off, I did this:
- remove the small pilot "bars" (under the couplers)
- gently insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver at either end and "free" the shell from the chassis.
No other screws holding it on, at least on mine. Didn't even have to remove the couplers.
When slipping the shell back on, you might need to use a small screwdriver to "gently spread" the sides of the shell a little, not much. Then it will snap down into place.
I've got several Proto2000 SD's, they're fine locomotives, smooth, quiet, great pullers.
thx everyone for your advice I tried filing the plastic protrusions and accidentally broke a few of them off. I attemped to snap it on anyways, and it did work after pressing the shell hard onto the chassis. Maybe this was not the best way to do this, but at least it worked..
SD7's have the class lights centered above the number boards. SD9's have the class lights closer to the corner of the hood.
Mark
I have three LL P2K SD9's and three LL P2K SD7's.
All of the shells are held in place with lugs that snap into small rectangular holes in the frame. Place the shell over the frame. Look to make sure the lugs are going into the holes. Don't force it in if the lugs are not in position, or the lugs will break. Carefully, press the shell onto the frame without breaking lugs.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
My two Proto SD7s (I think they are SD9s, the classification lights are canted outward) are short hood forward with the air tank on the forward side of the fuel tank and both shells snap on, no screws.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I only ever worked with one of them, it was a P2K SD7 (one of the PRR ones udes on Madison Hill). I have a coupel of pictures of decoder installation, and witht he shell off the couplers are still attached - so unlike other P2K locos like my GP7s, they don't use the couplers to hold the shell on. I don't totally remember, it was at least 15 years ago, but I see no evidence of any screws. Pretty sure it just snapped on the chassis. Based on the pictures, at least on this particular model, the air tank end of the underframe is the front, for orientation purposes. At least, that's the end I hooked the white headlight wire to, the opposite end has the yellow reverse light wire. Don't remember if this was set up for long hood forward or short hood forward.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Like I said I can’t tell one from another. The older Life Like have huge Life Like text on the bottom the Proto series have smaller print kinda script like text. Both the Life Like and Athearns are very close and hard to distinguish at a couple of feet. At arms length the only difference I can see is the Athearns have four holes in the fuel tank for the motor mount, all my SDs & GPs are painted SP Black Widow and look alike.I have one Model Power GP9M and it has Model Power on the fuel tank. That one is kinda special, it is doing good to pull it’s self up my 3½% grades without a helper. Sure looks good parked in my yard though, very nice detail.I saw it on eBay new in the box ‘Buy it Now’ for $8 free shipping, couldn’t help myself for that price. The shell is super detailed. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
My You Tube
I have two Proto SD9s and one Life Like and the shells snap on, no screws. The two Proto shells interchange but the Life Like shell won’t fit the Protos.As are most of my locomotives are older, newer could be different. Out of 70 plus locomotives only 5 were purchased new the rest are restored from train shows and eBay, the SD9 are restored clunkers.
EDIT:
Sorry I errored, the Proto SD9s are actually Proto SD7s, I can't tell the difference, they both have three axle trucks. The Life Like is a SD9.
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I just checked two Proto SD9s, one remotored the other stock and both shells snap in place easily. The shell only snaps in place if it’s orientated correctly, the holes and pins have to line up. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
my sd9's the type where there's these plastic protrusions to snap on the chassis in place. sry i didn't write that in the descriptions..
The shell is held to the chassis by the screws that attach the coupler pockets to the chassis, it doesn't "snap" into place. Put the shell in place, and then attach the coupler pockets.
To remove the shell, just the opposite, remove the coupler pocket screw, remove the coupler pocket, and lift the shell straight off the chassis.
I have recently bought a life like proto 2000 sd9 (NO.21237) CR#6921. For some reason, the shell and chassis do not connect, even though I am following the directions to do this on the manual. I can place the shell on the chassis and insert it halfway in, but the shell does not snap on to the chassis. I bought this loco new old stock, so I don't think the previous owner did anything to it that could cause this problem to happen. Any ideas on how to solve this problem?